I am debating between the fuel pump shim mod or paying for the turbo. Are there any pros/cons for either? I'm happy with everything the tractor does other than bush hogging my 10 acre field. It struggles pretty bad with this.
L2501 more HP
- Thread starter coltbean
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$3k for a turbo or $30k for a new tractor. I think I'll keep mine.Trade up to a more powerful model
Dan
By now, I think the turbo is fairly reliable and adds quite a bit of HP. At least, people don't seem to complain about it here. I have to say I haven't looked that much.
In comparison, the shim is a minor improvement.
In comparison, the shim is a minor improvement.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yea that $3k could turn it into $0k if the HP outdoes the drivetrain.
If you having issues with it brush hogging, it more than likely is your trying to mow with either 2 big of a mower, or material that needs a different kind of mower.
What kind of bush hog do you have and what width is it?
How low are you trying to cut?
Thats a poor equivalence. You could buy a nice used l3901 outright for less than $20k and a lot less to TRADE up. Plus you get more tractor to go with the additional HP.
Dan
I don’t think the trade would work that way. You’d also get a DPF and zero increase in lift capacity, same frame, same features with probably zero warranty.
Of course the trade works that way. You get nore HP, bigger tractor, and a common rail engine with exhaust after treatment. You get zero warranty either way.
Looking at used nachines near me right now I can buy a 600 hour L3901HST with loader and R4's for $19,500 and easily sell the L2501 for $15,000 plus.
Dan
It’s not bigger. They have exactly the same loader. Common rail and DPF isn’t an advantage for many of us.
I’d go with a larger tractor and the 3901 isn’t if I traded. At the point, you go DPF there are a lot of choices.
Turbo. Many of the drive train parts are the same as the L3301. However, a 33 HP L2501 at 2200 RPM will be putting more torque on everything than a 33 HP L3301 at 2600 RPM. That said, I doubt you're looking at a catastrophic breakage; but reduced long-term life on parts due to subjecting them to higher stress.
I've wondered, on the HST, IF the L3301 PTO gears would fit the L2501. This would allow more HP by getting the engine up to the 2600-2700 RPM range, with governor and pump mods. The HP would increase over stock, but the max torque would remain the same, except the final PTO drive.
ken erickson
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B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
I am not sure by what metric the L3901 is a bigger tractor.
Same wheel base and width as the L2501, same sized tires. weight is about 150 lbs heavier which I would guess is mostly due to the larger engine and DPF filter and associated parts.
Loader is the same loader with about a 20 pound advantage lift capacity over the L2501 , three point lift has about a 120 lb advantage. But for practical purposes the L2501, L3301 and L3901 are the same chassis size.
Higher GPM hydraulic flow with the 3901, 5.15 not counting the PS compared to 6.3, not counting the PS, for the 3901
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Of course there are lots of choices. I could buy a much older and bigger M7060 with 1K hours for the same price as the L3901. Or a new/used Kioti, MF, or JD...
My point is if his tractor is to "small" for his needs the easiest solution is replace it with a "bigger" one. And it wont cost anywhere remotely close to $30k.
Dan
It's a landpride 1860. Not mowing that low but it is thick. My hay guy can no longer cut it and I haven't found another one.
I have to now in L for most of it. M occasionally on the thinner parts.
You're at the lowest end of the spectrum (~20 HP PTO) for the LP1860 (20-65 HP).
Would a 54" fail mower be better for thick stuff? Just a thought.
NCL4701
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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
I’ve run a 5’ bush hog behind a 9N Ford that’s comparable in PTO HP to your L2501. It’s sort of OK so long as whatever you’re mowing isn’t very thick. For grass or forbs thick as the hair on a cat’s back that’s mowed a couple times a year or less, there just isn’t enough HP on the PTO to get it done.
Somehow, you need to get near 30hp on the PTO to cut very thick grass with a 5’ bush hog. If it’s a short term need because you’ll be getting another hay guy at some point, maybe rent something to do it once a year or hire someone to cut it once a year. If it’s a more long term issue, whether multiple cuttings each year or you’re not getting another hay guy: turbo, trade your current tractor for a higher HP modern tractor, or buy an older 2WD non-loader higher HP tractor (depending on market relatively inexpensive due to not being currently desirable) just for that one job.
BTW, you probably already know this, but make sure you’re running the front of the bush hog a bit lower than the back. Level or front high, you’re wasting power and you don’t have any to waste.
Somehow, you need to get 30hp or more on the PTO to cut very thick grass competently with a 5’ bush hog. If it’s a short term need because you’ll be getting another hay guy at some point, maybe rent something to do it once a year or hire someone to cut it once a year. If it’s a more long term issue, whether multiple cuttings each year or you’re not getting another hay guy: turbo, trade your current tractor for a higher HP modern tractor, or buy an older 2WD non-loader higher HP tractor (depending on market relatively inexpensive due to not being currently desirable) just for that one job.
Solved our inadequate HP issue (and a few other issues) by replacing the 9N (~23 PTO HP) with a L4701 (~38 PTO HP). Still use the same old 5’ bush hog, but dropping below 540 RPM no longer happens.
Whatever direction you go with it, hope it works out for you.
Somehow, you need to get near 30hp on the PTO to cut very thick grass with a 5’ bush hog. If it’s a short term need because you’ll be getting another hay guy at some point, maybe rent something to do it once a year or hire someone to cut it once a year. If it’s a more long term issue, whether multiple cuttings each year or you’re not getting another hay guy: turbo, trade your current tractor for a higher HP modern tractor, or buy an older 2WD non-loader higher HP tractor (depending on market relatively inexpensive due to not being currently desirable) just for that one job.
BTW, you probably already know this, but make sure you’re running the front of the bush hog a bit lower than the back. Level or front high, you’re wasting power and you don’t have any to waste.
Somehow, you need to get 30hp or more on the PTO to cut very thick grass competently with a 5’ bush hog. If it’s a short term need because you’ll be getting another hay guy at some point, maybe rent something to do it once a year or hire someone to cut it once a year. If it’s a more long term issue, whether multiple cuttings each year or you’re not getting another hay guy: turbo, trade your current tractor for a higher HP modern tractor, or buy an older 2WD non-loader higher HP tractor (depending on market relatively inexpensive due to not being currently desirable) just for that one job.
Solved our inadequate HP issue (and a few other issues) by replacing the 9N (~23 PTO HP) with a L4701 (~38 PTO HP). Still use the same old 5’ bush hog, but dropping below 540 RPM no longer happens.
Whatever direction you go with it, hope it works out for you.
Are your blades sharp? I know guys say leave the blades dull to splinter brush but, if you're cutting grass, sharp blades leave a better cut and use less power.