hmm....Kubota may say not to use it with 'float' valves , is that if the draft linkage is not adjusted properly, the implement could move the linkage far enough to engage 'float' ?
Thank you very much. I've read that the top hole is the best place to mount the upper link. It appears that yours was in there at one time, but that it's been moved down one. Did that make much difference?@Brewboy, I took some photos this evening of the draft control on the MX but not very good ones upon further review. I'll pull the tractor out tomorrow and try to get better ones. Messick's has some good schematics of the various components in the draft control kits if you need to see parts.
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There's a table in the owner's manual that lists which hole to use depending on application.Thank you very much. I've read that the top hole is the best place to mount the upper link. It appears that yours was in there at one time, but that it's been moved down one. Did that make much difference?
I saving that one as well. I just hope that someone day I can test it out. Thanks.There's a table in the owner's manual that lists which hole to use depending on application.
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Great Shot! I'm going to try and get a similar shot of mine.Here's the underside of the tractor showing the 3-point input and draft control linkage. It's a complicated arrangement for sure. I would think that the first step is to make sure that the 3-point is working correctly with the draft control removed from the equation.
It's a working tractor and not some highly polished garage queen so it's going to have some dirt on it and under it.
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It's a fairly complicated linkage system, but as far as I'm aware, the only adjustment is the input rod from the bracket that the top link connects too.Great Shot! I'm going to try and get a similar shot of mine.
Here's a rear shot of mine and shot of the input arm.It's a fairly complicated linkage system, but as far as I'm aware, the only adjustment is the input rod from the bracket that the top link connects too.
I agree. It looks like a mechanical nightmare to me. None of this exists on my old 4610 Ford. It's all done internally, to my knowledge.That's quite a lot different to what I have on the MX, and looks to be a better version, but I would expect that with the L60 tractors.
Not that I have any real idea on how that all works really but I see a few odd things in your picture:
1) I agree that the long feedback rod “looks kind of weird”. I would assume that it should be straight (90 degrees) to the rear attachment point. It looks like it is still slightly angled at the attachment point but that may be the picture.
2) There appears to be some shiny spots on the linkage but that may be the pict or you touched it and wiped the dirt off. One in particular is on the end of the bar (just below the yellow highlight) and I don’t see anything around it that would have wiped it off to make it look that shiny.
3) There is a small hole in the end of one of the bars (yellow). Why would they put that hole there if they didn’t want to have a cross pin in it? Maybe it is a multi purpose part but I would expect that something should be there.
4) Where I marked it in red shows a shiny spot on the blue hydraulic pipe. Is the linkage coming into contact there and causing some sort of movement limitation that should NOT exist?
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I'm going to check that hydraulic pipe tomorrow and look for wear. Good catch! The first tech they sent out was messing with the linkage. I had a 6' brush hog attached and it was stuck in the up position. Whatever he did, that implement dropped to the ground, It scared me because I thought he might have had his foot under it, but thankfully he didn't. Makes me wonder if he moved that part of the linkage. They are convinced that there's something wrong with the kit and have ordered another one. I should know something by the end of next week. Thanks for your help.Not that I have any real idea on how that all works really but I see a few odd things in your picture:
1) I agree that the long feedback rod “looks kind of weird”. I would assume that it should be straight (90 degrees) to the rear attachment point. It looks like it is still slightly angled at the attachment point but that may be the picture.
2) There appears to be some shiny spots on the linkage but that may be the pict or you touched it and wiped the dirt off. One in particular is on the end of the bar (just below the yellow highlight) and I don’t see anything around it that would have wiped it off to make it look that shiny.
3) There is a small hole in the end of one of the bars (yellow). Why would they put that hole there if they didn’t want to have a cross pin in it? Maybe it is a multi purpose part but I would expect that something should be there.
4) Where I marked it in red shows a shiny spot on the blue hydraulic pipe. Is the linkage coming into contact there and causing some sort of movement limitation that should NOT exist?
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I never got a picture that would show the clearance to that hydraulic pipe, but it led me to what I think is the problem. Looking at this picture you see a crude, purple X on the same linkage you referred to. With the arms stuck up, I could barely push back on the flat next to the spring and the arms would drop. It took very little pressure to accomplish this. I did it several times and then they started dropping on their own. I did all of this earlier and now it's headed to the shop.I'm going to check that hydraulic pipe tomorrow and look for wear. Good catch! The first tech they sent out was messing with the linkage. I had a 6' brush hog attached and it was stuck in the up position. Whatever he did, that implement dropped to the ground, It scared me because I thought he might have had his foot under it, but thankfully he didn't. Makes me wonder if he moved that part of the linkage. They are convinced that there's something wrong with the kit and have ordered another one. I should know something by the end of next week. Thanks for your help.