New Cars/Trucks

[McMXi]

BS. Ford revoked my truck's entire warranty for hitting the 85mph speed limiter, calling it abuse.

What did you hit it with? What year and model?

 

[Speed25]

What did you hit it with? What year and model?

2001 Ranger, 2wd 4.0L 5MT
Yes, it's been years, but I will hold that grudge.

 

[Bmyers]

BS. Ford revoked my truck's entire warranty for hitting the 85mph speed limiter, calling it abuse. After 4 dealership visits for the same stalling issue, I was warranty blacklisted at all dealerships. I found the defective vacuum hose myself and replaced it for $6. A Ford will never again grace my driveway, which is sad since I grew up on Fords.

85 MPH? Wow, that is interstate speed around here. Vehicles pass you like you are standing still if you are doing 75MPH.

Now, if you were doing 185MPH, I would understand.

 

[McMXi]

2001 Ranger, 2wd 4.0L 5MT
Yes, it's been years, but I will hold that grudge.

I'm amazed from a safety/liability point of view that any automotive company can limit the top speed of the vehicle beyond the "natural" limits of gearing, rpm, etc. What if you're trying to evade a tornado or forest fire or some other form of disaster?

I can set various speed limits in my '24 F-450, but that's a feature I can chose to turn on or off as needed or wanted.

 

[Speed25]

I'm amazed from a safety/liability point of view that any automotive company can limit the top speed of the vehicle beyond the "natural" limits of gearing, rpm, etc. What if you're trying to evade a tornado or forest fire or some other form of disaster?

I can set various speed limits in my '24 F-450, but that's a feature I can chose to turn on or off as needed or wanted.

What's worse is that the code in the computer was a joint code. If the rev limiter is hit, OR the max speed is hit, the code was stored. Pull out in traffic fast and hit the rev limiter once, code stored for future warranty denial possibly.

State attorney general wanted nothing to do with it, because Ford. The cheapest lawyer (two hours away) willing to take this up against Ford wanted a retainer that was more than the truck cost new, despite very clear documentation. I learned a LOT about how the government works for big corporate, not for me.

Since then, I'm a GM guy and their warranty stuff has been good. I had a tuned engine and transmission (stock otherwise) in my Silverado and when the 4L70 broke in half, they covered it under warranty. They said there was no way the tune could crack the whole transmission housing and that it was a casting defect. Crap happens with any vehicle, and my local service department is really good.

 

[McMXi]

Since then, I'm a GM guy and their warranty stuff has been good. I had a tuned engine and transmission (stock otherwise) in my Silverado and when the 4L70 broke in half, they covered it under warranty. They said there was no way the tune could crack the whole transmission housing and that it was a casting defect. Crap happens with any vehicle, and my local service department is really good.

A good local dealer can make all the difference. I have no experience with the local Ford dealer beyond the purchase a few months back that I documented here. Hopefully I never need to take the truck to them. I still lean towards Ford for trucks and have for decades and that will most likely never change.

I've had quite a few Ford vehicles over the years, but it's the Ford trucks that have been really good for me, particularly the Super Duty models, although my experience with the latest one is limited. I've owned three Rangers and an F-150 as well as a Fiesta (my first car), a Contour SVT, a Cobra SVT and an Explorer (briefly).

 

[The Evil Twin]

BS. Ford revoked my truck's entire warranty for hitting the 85mph speed limiter, calling it abuse. After 4 dealership visits for the same stalling issue, I was warranty blacklisted at all dealerships. I found the defective vacuum hose myself and replaced it for $6. A Ford will never again grace my driveway, which is sad since I grew up on Fords.

There is more to this story than you are telling.
1) It is illegal for the "entire" warranty to be voided. The manufacturer rep (dealer) must provide evidence that the act or modification was the direct cause of the failure. Even then, only the warranty on that part is denied. They know this.
2) I can bet there is 0 documentation or literature that states hitting the speed limiter will void any part of the vehicle.
3) damn near every friend I have has either maxed out their car/ truck at least a dozen times. I personally have hit top speed in mine. Then I raised the speed limiter with pirated software. Hell, I often hit the Rev limiter. Still have warranty work done no problem.
Something else happened you aren't saying.

 

[chim]

Still looking for a vehicle to replace our aging Trailblazer. There's just so darn much to not like about different new vehicles. My first choice would be a Tahoe. I had a 5.3 company Tahoe that went close to 300K, so that gives me at least a little confidence with all the talk of the bad V8's. AFAIK, the horror stories have mostly been with the 6.2's. I would be afraid of them.

Not nuts with cylinder deactivation, start/stop crap, so many computer related things to go haywire, turbo a tiny engine for more HP, etc. Until recent years getting a vehicle to last was as simple as performing good basic maintenance. Oil and lube even more frequently than the manufacturer's recommendation, keep 'em clean and don't abuse them. Two phrases stuck in my head are "you can use it hard without being hard on it" and "miles don't kill engines, friction does". Don't beat the snot out of it and don't short it on lube for the win.

I've had several personal and company vehicles give me around 300K miles with no major problems. I just wonder what can be expected of the 2025's or 2026's.

 

[Speed25]

There is more to this story than you are telling.
1) It is illegal for the "entire" warranty to be voided. The manufacturer rep (dealer) must provide evidence that the act or modification was the direct cause of the failure. Even then, only the warranty on that part is denied. They know this.
2) I can bet there is 0 documentation or literature that states hitting the speed limiter will void any part of the vehicle.
3) damn near every friend I have has either maxed out their car/ truck at least a dozen times. I personally have hit top speed in mine. Then I raised the speed limiter with pirated software. Hell, I often hit the Rev limiter. Still have warranty work done no problem.
Something else happened you aren't saying.

I'm well too aware of the Magnuson-Moss warranty act and how illegal what they were doing was. On the fifth visit I mentioned if it wasn't fixed this time, I was going to pursue a lemon buyback. That's the rest of the story. When you pushed the clutch in and turned (like coasting or turning into a driveway or onto a road), the engine would stall, losing your power steering in the middle of the turn. I could repeat the issue with 100% success with a tech. This went beyond the dealership, and even above the regional rep's head before getting everything denied. They wouldn't even replace the faulty headlight switch afterwards. Going through the channels, you really got the feeling you were dealing with the mob. Bone stock truck, no modifications except legal window tint.

Still looking for a vehicle to replace our aging Trailblazer. There's just so darn much to not like about different new vehicles. My first choice would be a Tahoe. I had a 5.3 company Tahoe that went close to 300K, so that gives me at least a little confidence with all the talk of the bad V8's. AFAIK, the horror stories have mostly been with the 6.2's. I would be afraid of them.

Not nuts with cylinder deactivation, start/stop crap, so many computer related things to go haywire, turbo a tiny engine for more HP, etc. Until recent years getting a vehicle to last was as simple as performing good basic maintenance. Oil and lube even more frequently than the manufacturer's recommendation, keep 'em clean and don't abuse them. Two phrases stuck in my head are "you can use it hard without being hard on it" and "miles don't kill engines, friction does". Don't beat the snot out of it and don't short it on lube for the win.

I've had several personal and company vehicles give me around 300K miles with no major problems. I just wonder what can be expected of the 2025's or 2026's.

Any reason to not go with a 5.3 Tahoe? Or just fear that the 6.2 shared enough in common with the 5.3? I like to maintain my own vehicles outside of warranty, and looking at the procedures for simple things like spark plug changes or a belt change on some of these turbo-4s is eye-opening. I also won't buy anything with a timing belt, so that eliminates a lot of the turbo-4s too. I do drive my vehicles for years though as my average vehicle age in the driveway is 23 years old. I'm actually tempted to pick up a used 6.2 Tahoe with decent remaining warranty at some point due to the lower resale value right now. I suspect their current Band-Aid fix will bite GM and they'll have to replace a lot of these engines. Should things go south on my own dime, I wouldn't be opposed to a rebuild with a nice 416ci stroker in there either.

 

[lynnmor]

I suspect their current Band-Aid fix will bite GM and they'll have to replace a lot of these engines.

I think you will find that there is no "fix" it just using real lubricating oil instead of the thin as water stuff mentioned in the manual. Do a little research on the subject.

 

[chim]

The 5.3 doesn't concern me as much as the 6.2 does. As I mentioned, I put almost 300K miles on the company Tahoe I had. It had the 5.3 and cylinder deactivation.

I'd prefer not having the start/stop crap and it'd be nice if it got a few more MPG, but am more ready to move on it than Wifey is. I heard rumors that the start/stop may go away (maybe on the 2026's?). Being hard headed and don't want to go buy a $100 plug-in device to keep my new vehicle running at stoplights

 

[Speed25]

I think you will find that there is no "fix" it just using real lubricating oil instead of the thin as water stuff mentioned in the manual. Do a little research on the subject.

Lots of truth here. I've noticed my other vehicles have different oil recommended to use for identical engines in the rest of the world, but specify the thin crap only in the US. No thank you, I'll take the 0.06mpg penalty and longer engine life. GM changes the recommend oil for some of these V8s way too often.

 

[RCW]

The 5.3 doesn't concern me as much as the 6.2 does. As I mentioned, I put almost 300K miles on the company Tahoe I had. It had the 5.3 and cylinder deactivation.

I'd prefer not having the start/stop crap and it'd be nice if it got a few more MPG, but am more ready to move on it than Wifey is. I heard rumors that the start/stop may go away (maybe on the 2026's?). Being hard headed and don't want to go buy a $100 plug-in device to keep my new vehicle running at stoplights

Years ago, a big-time GM guy/mechanic I know recommended the 6.2 over the 5.3 with the AFM, etc.

It was the day before I picked up this 5.3 truck......

Now sounds like the 6.2 is the one with problems.

I don't drive interstates much. Truck probably doesn't have 500 miles driven in "D."

I always drive it in manual 5th gear. Locks out the cylinder deactivation. Has never burned oil and a recent 100 mile-roundtrip over two-lane roads averaged 24 mpg on the dash thingy (if you can believe it). Best is 29.2 mpg (if you believe it) on rural roads in the Adirondacks....

I'm getting more resolute on vehicle choices now.......

PS - - the Mrs. has no issues with me getting a new truck if we can swing it.

The only caveat is the next one needs running boards/steps.

The current truck doesn't have any steps or running boards.

I'm 6'4" and not an issue for me.

At 5'4", gotten to be an issue for her as we get older......she doesn't ride in the truck often.

We can accommodate that......