Snowblower Gravel adapter

[asgard]

I have read over many years about the placing of a PVC pipe over the cutting edge of a plow and in some cases over the edge on a snowblower to stop picking up gravel.
I decided to do the modification but instead of PVC used a thick wall Galv pipe.
The unit had to be able to mount using the existing holes and be no lower than the side slides.
So after 2 tests in mixed conditions none really worthy of blowing I can conclude it works. The level of gravel thrown was almost none even when the substrate was not fully frozen, usually when the stones fly.
It is quick to mount and dismount so as conditions change.
In addition, I was tired of the black soot on the blower so also added an exhaust diverter.
Hope this of interest to anyone in the gravel throwing business.

 

[je1279]

Ive done the PVC pipe on a plow in the past and it works great until the pipe shatters due to the cold. Seems like the galvanized pipe is a better alternative.

 

[BA76]

That looks like a really good idea. I wonder if would help do the same on a 3-point hitch blade?

 

[asgard]

Well, we had about 6 inches of light crystal type snow yesterday on a not so frozen bed, lots of loose stones. Toady I used the blower and it worked better than I had hoped. Virtually no stones were thrown and a very nice bed prepared, my wife thought I was prepping for ski-ing. The surface was even and due to the snow type was left with a nice tire pattern for grip.
This is a worthwhile mod.

 

[Crash277]

I used my new rear blower for the first time today. I picked up some gravel for the first few passes then went to the garage and lowered the shoes to the second hole and went back out. Didn’t scrape up anymore gravel. Do you find that your shoes don’t float the blower enough?

 

[Justasquid]

I’ve added 2” wide flat steel to the existing shoes to make them wider and float better. Some of the narrow shoes just dig into the gravel and allow the blower to scrape the gravel into the impeller. But I think this idea if the pipe is great. It seams like it will push the gravel down and really compact the surface. I bet it works really well across uneven lawn surfaces too. It also seems like if you have a high spot of gravel, such as vehicle tires driving through wet soft gravel or dirt, it would lift the blower up and compact the ground. It looks great for early season blowing.

 

[asgard]

I also made wider skids but sometimes when the base was soft it still dug in especially on turns. I had it in float and that was still an issue on a couple of sections I blow. The pipe is excellent across the grass into the woodpile and even where I have some river rock at the edge it floats over that if you get a bit close.
I think the ones that come with the blower are unable to carry the load adequately unless the ground is brick hard/
It also leaves a very professional finish.
Well worth the time it took to make it. Simple but effective.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Think I'd use black pipe instead. Welding galvanized pipe gives off poisonous fumes.

 

[asgard]

Only if you don't grind down the surface coating. Weld outside or with the aid of an extractor there is about 4 inches of weld.

The best way to weld galvanized steel, regardless of welding process, is to remove the zinc coating from the joint. This adds two operations: removing the coating and re-spraying or painting the weld seam after welding to regain corrosion resistance.

 

[SAR Tracker]

Only if you don't grind down the surface coating. Weld outside or with the aid of an extractor there is about 4 inches of weld.

The best way to weld galvanized steel, regardless of welding process, is to remove the zinc coating from the joint. This adds two operations: removing the coating and re-spraying or painting the weld seam after welding to regain corrosion resistance.

Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Flat/Matte Gray Cold Galvanizing Compound Spray 16 oz - Ace Hardware

Instantly galvanize metal surfaces to protect them from corrosion with Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Cold Galvanizing Compound Spray. This 93% pure zinc coating applies a galvanized film with cathodic protection, which resists rusts, scratches and chips.Find the SPRYPRIMR ZINC RICH 16OZ at Ace.

www.acehardware.com

 

[orangeandblack]

[/QUOTE]
I have the same problem with my B2782B on a B2650. As soon as my new mig welder arrives I'll be fabricating one. Thanks for the great idea!

 

[Old_Paint]

The only thing I could visualize in my head with a snow blower on a gravel road was the Mayhem commercial where he's driving through the gravel with the riding mower. It's stuck there now, and I can't get it out.

 

[B737]

I would like to do this as well. Dumb question, When you set this pipe, what is its relation to the skid shoes? does it fall out above them a little? or below as the lowest point?

I threw my share of gravel and grass today. I do about a mile of gravel driveway, plus a small section of backyard for the dog.

 

[mcmxi]

This is an interesting modification but what type of gravel do you have on your driveway? 3/4 crush is common up here

I've been blowing snow and gravel with my BX25D for the past five winters and I hate the sound of gravel running through the blower! My solution these days is to only use the BX on my asphalt driveway and parking areas, approx. 9,000 sq.ft that I had done about 2 years ago, and use the new MX with a front snow blade on the 200 yard "common" gravel driveway that I share with a neighbor. If I hadn't bought the MX I'd probably be trying this mod.

 

[River19]

Nice mods. I also have a blower for the gravel drive and rear blade.......so far I have been good running the shoes up as high as they go and then cleaning the last inch or so with the RB behind me. I found the magic number to be running the 3pt at 4-6 depending on angle of the blade to keep from pulling too much dirt and gravel with me.

When the driveway was softer (ie not frozen) I rand the rear blade rotated 180 degrees ) in > direction to avoid being too aggressive.

I also added an exhaust diverter for the same reason. Need to power wash the blower. Plus it would heat up that side of the blower and snow would stick and freeze pretty good there.

 

[mikester]

My solution is a hydraulic top link. I tilt the blower back to leave a skim coat of snow at the beginning of the season. After things ice up I can tilt forward and scrape down to the ice.

 

[gmbc]

I have read over many years about the placing of a PVC pipe over the cutting edge of a plow and in some cases over the edge on a snowblower to stop picking up gravel.
I decided to do the modification but instead of PVC used a thick wall Galv pipe.
The unit had to be able to mount using the existing holes and be no lower than the side slides.
So after 2 tests in mixed conditions none really worthy of blowing I can conclude it works. The level of gravel thrown was almost none even when the substrate was not fully frozen, usually when the stones fly.
It is quick to mount and dismount so as conditions change.
In addition, I was tired of the black soot on the blower so also added an exhaust diverter.
Hope this of interest to anyone in the gravel throwing business.

 

[gmbc]

Have added exh diverted also. Raised shoes then lowered once base of snow is there. Will try this pipe addition as my yard is not level.

 

[Cstock5468]

I’ve added 2” wide flat steel to the existing shoes to make them wider and float better. Some of the narrow shoes just dig into the gravel and allow the blower to scrape the gravel into the impeller. But I think this idea if the pipe is great. It seams like it will push the gravel down and really compact the surface. I bet it works really well across uneven lawn surfaces too. It also seems like if you have a high spot of gravel, such as vehicle tires driving through wet soft gravel or dirt, it would lift the blower up and compact the ground. It looks great for early season blowing.

Hello justasquid, thanks for your post. I have same issue with my skid shoes digging into the hard pack, particularly early in the season. Can you describe what you did for adding the wider steel to the shoes? I was thinking the same. The galv pipe add looks great and seems to essentially acta as an extension across the shoes laterally, preventing the shoes from sinking in and the auger box picking up the stones. Any help and input appreciated.

 

[Justasquid]

Hello justasquid, thanks for your post. I have same issue with my skid shoes digging into the hard pack, particularly early in the season. Can you describe what you did for adding the wider steel to the shoes? I was thinking the same. The galv pipe add looks great and seems to essentially acta as an extension across the shoes laterally, preventing the shoes from sinking in and the auger box picking up the stones. Any help and input appreciated.

I did this on a previous blower I had so I don’t have any pictures. But basically, I took 1/4” thick x 2” wide mild steel. Cut it to length and matched the profile of the existing shoes. I bent it along the same lines and butted it against the outside edge of the existing shoe. I did it to the outside edge so the shoes could still pulled up all the way for later in the season. I also added a few gussets to add strength to the extended shoe. I beveled both ends of the new shoe before welding. I tacked it all together and then fully welded it. The gussets really helped keep everything flat and mimized the warping From welding as well as keeping the new shoe from bending upward.