Warm air coming out of vents with AC operating on M7040?

lugbolt

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If your exp valve or orifice was plugged, your high side would be SKY high, like 400+ and low would be basically close to zero (suction from compressor).

If it has never been apart, leave it alone & clean everything up really really well. High high side is typical of low airflow across the condenser. High low side is indicative of hot air flowing across the evaporator. Yours aren't too far out of line for dirt, or low airflow across the condenser, in my opinion (depending on the actual air temp and if the cabin doors were closed, etc).

Replacing the TxV is at this point the last thing I'd do. First run the water hose over the condenser with the engine running and see if the high side pressure comes down. If it does, what's the low side doing? It should come down too.

With the hood up and checking a/c pressures on most tractors your high and low sides are GOING to be high, lack of airflow across the condenser. When the hood is down, air is pulled by the fan across them. Hence, the reason I suggested using some water to cool the condenser with the hood up.

These tractors have a scroll compressor which is VERY efficient, also expensive if you have to replace it. Because they are so efficient they will many times take a very long time to equalize. Remember, the condenser is under a lot of pressure, the evaporator a lot less pressure, and there are two ways for them to equalize, through the TxV or through the compressor. The TxV may "close" enough to stop flow with the engine off forcing refrigerant attempt to equalize through the compressor. Very common.

Another thought, if the TxV is "plugged", what's it plugged with? And why? Those questions need to be addressed. Simply replacing the part doesn't solve the whole problem, particularly with a/c systems. Typically if the txv were plugged, or stuck, the high side pressure will run up to around 450-500 psi, at which time the high pressure switch will turn the compressor off. You arent' seeing this, thus I do not believe that the txv is the issue here. But I could be wrong.
 

Tx Jim

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Lugbolt
Thank you for your reply. I really like your idea of running water over the condenser. I understand that air flow through cond/rad won't be as much with hood up vs closed. I'd perform some more diagnostics.
Can you explain or have any thoughts on the reason when AC comp. is turned off the pressures won't equalize? My assistant told me during this time low pressure went below zero which as we know is a vacuum but I didn't witness this fact
Thanks again,Jim
 
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SidecarFlip

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I have a feeling that the evaporator is loaded with dirt. I've found from taking mine apart, that the seals that keep the roof sealed against the top of the ROPS cage aren't all that good at sealing against ingress of dirt in the first place why I keep mine on recirc all the time now. When I has mine apart, I added an extra strip of closed cell adhesive foam to the new roof seal I replaced just in case and replaced the foam filter seal with a bulb seal.

I still want to know how the underseat pan located components get the air from the roof to them?

Like I said previously, mine will now freeze me out literally. Blower setting one is all I can do, even when the ambient is close to 100.

That and the auxiliary 12 volt pusher fan I added under the hood. too many heat exchanger's under the hood of my M9 for the rad fan to be at all efficient.
 

Tx Jim

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I still want to know how the underseat pan located components get the air from the roof to them?
IMHO under the seat air components don't have the roof cap seal leaking problems that roof air has. As you can see duct(key 050) leads from external filter to AC/heat housing.
 

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SidecarFlip

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That works. Problem is, the OEM filter seal is iffy. I replaced mine with n automotive bulb seal versus the foam one that gets crushed. Don't think I'd want to service the under seat pan unit, looks as bad as the under roof one and you have to remove the seat just to 'get there'.
 

SidecarFlip

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I sort of believe that a lot of issue stem from owners not cleaning the roof mount air filter and it gets clogged and then the blower starts sucking air from around the filter seal.

I clean mine a couple times a year, give it a bath in dishwash detergent and let it air dry after rinsing. I keep a clean spare on the shelf at all times.

Have you had a farm call yet?
 

RCW

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Jim - - - I'm of no help at all, but I'm routing for you to find a fix.

We're looking at 92 F and muggy today. Most guys have first, and some second cutting done, so they're okay right now.

As a kid, we didn't have any cab tractors. It got hot hayin', and everything was square bales stacked in the mow...

Can't imagine being in that tractor in Texas without AC.....
 
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Tx Jim

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Update: In lieu of a 17 yr old trainee I asked my regular employee to check rad/cond & all filters. He stated he blew a little more dirt from of of them. Ran water over cond & AC pressures were 45° & 195° with an ambient temp of 95°. AC was blowing cold after closing hood.
Thanks to all that replied
Jim
 

SidecarFlip

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Update: In lieu of a 17 yr old trainee I asked my regular employee to check rad/cond & all filters. He stated he blew a little more dirt from of of them. Ran water over cond & AC pressures were 45° & 195° with an ambient temp of 95°. AC was blowing cold after closing hood.
Thanks to all that replied
Jim
You might consider going my route and adding a 12 volt pusher fan in front of the AC HX under the hood. I used a 12 volt relay wired into the compressor clutch power cable so the fan runs when the compressor runs.

Sure helps when the tractor is idling and the cooling fan isn't moving all that much air.