I am getting acquainted with new 3560 HST and a new blade after Ford 8N which didn't have one, so learning from the ground up here. BTW love my new Kubota! Power steering! Fuel tank fill reachable from the ground!!!!
In a thread below, "adjusting blade" there are great hints for getting the blade level both parallel and perpendicular to the direction of travel. On my new blade, Woods HBL 72-2, with a Quick Hitch, it is clear that the swivel and angle adjusts aren't going to work right if that isn't done, so that the support beam is horizontal. Also the Quick Hitch won't pick up the blade unless it (the Hitch) is vertical which also makes blade support beam horizontal.
If I do that on the barn floor which is more or less level, I can't drive the tractor out and down a ramp without the blade hanging up. The hydraulics won't lift it high enough to clear unless I go back and shorten the top link, thus unleveling the blade.
Once out and re-leveled, I can only lift the blade about 6 inches off the ground. This is also not very good for plowing snow, I had this fantasy of scraping snow in one direction changing the angle of the blade and scraping it in the other just by pulling the pins and turning the blade while it is up in the air. If the top link has been shortened to get more lift height, and the blade is rotated to 45o it is crooked, some of which can be fixed by setting it down again and adjusting the side link, but it is sort of a pain. I think more of a pain if there is a lot of snow around. Etc.
I have gotten another inch or two of lift to 8 inches off the ground by moving the pins on the side links and using the topmost holes (green arrows see pictures below) but it still isn't much. Still won't clear the barn. Between ground level and the highest setting on the 3 pt is between #'s 5 and 8 on the 3 pt valve, so basically I am using the upper third of its range. The other possible adjustments in the 3 pt arms don't look like they would help. I have just about enough threading on the top link to get level once the blade is lifted to 2 inches above ground, but not too much more. What am I missing? Are there any other not too expensive solutions? Did I get the wrong blade for this tractor? A hydraulic top link might be nice, but beyond my mechanical skills/budget.
Thanks for all help!
In a thread below, "adjusting blade" there are great hints for getting the blade level both parallel and perpendicular to the direction of travel. On my new blade, Woods HBL 72-2, with a Quick Hitch, it is clear that the swivel and angle adjusts aren't going to work right if that isn't done, so that the support beam is horizontal. Also the Quick Hitch won't pick up the blade unless it (the Hitch) is vertical which also makes blade support beam horizontal.
If I do that on the barn floor which is more or less level, I can't drive the tractor out and down a ramp without the blade hanging up. The hydraulics won't lift it high enough to clear unless I go back and shorten the top link, thus unleveling the blade.
Once out and re-leveled, I can only lift the blade about 6 inches off the ground. This is also not very good for plowing snow, I had this fantasy of scraping snow in one direction changing the angle of the blade and scraping it in the other just by pulling the pins and turning the blade while it is up in the air. If the top link has been shortened to get more lift height, and the blade is rotated to 45o it is crooked, some of which can be fixed by setting it down again and adjusting the side link, but it is sort of a pain. I think more of a pain if there is a lot of snow around. Etc.
I have gotten another inch or two of lift to 8 inches off the ground by moving the pins on the side links and using the topmost holes (green arrows see pictures below) but it still isn't much. Still won't clear the barn. Between ground level and the highest setting on the 3 pt is between #'s 5 and 8 on the 3 pt valve, so basically I am using the upper third of its range. The other possible adjustments in the 3 pt arms don't look like they would help. I have just about enough threading on the top link to get level once the blade is lifted to 2 inches above ground, but not too much more. What am I missing? Are there any other not too expensive solutions? Did I get the wrong blade for this tractor? A hydraulic top link might be nice, but beyond my mechanical skills/budget.
Thanks for all help!
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