Need a solution for a worn pto splined shaft/female coupler for KUTBOTA L245DT

[t_quinn]

Diagram helps a lot.

Check this out...never should have trusted the part guy at the local Kubota dealership.

It appears you knew this but i didn't. The stripped shaft that is on my machine appears to be a stub shaft only that likely does not go all the way back into the engine. (He alleged that it would require an entire engine tear down to replace it.) After surfing the internet until my eyes almost fell out, I found a parts diagram for my loader which is a Woods/Du-al 105. Under the "62 Pump Drive Kit" section it looks like they sell a replacement stub shaft. (Hard to tell if it is my part because their diagram sucks.) It also looks like they may sell my worn out coupling, although there is no price listed next to it, it says to call them.

Look at the diagram at http://www.messicks.com/WO/1007.aspx.

They show several different setups. Mine is the first (shown highest up) on the diagram. Pump to mount to roller chain sprocket to pump drive shaft (it has keyways on both ends) to pump coupling (18 spline) to drive shaft spline. The latter two parts are the ones I seek, which are worn and need replacing. I don't know what the other parts are beyond the drive shaft spline like the "pulley adaptor." I will have to remove pump (since I remounted it the other day hoping I could get it working again) and take a look at exactly how the stub shaft mounts to the engine (probably to the pulley, but I'm not sure).

Wow is it frustrating getting bad info from dealership. They don't seem to care much about people with old, used equipment. Just want to sell the new machines off the lot!

Thanks for all the help. I'll make some calls later today to see if those parts are available.

 

[Lil Foot]

They don't seem to care much about people with old, used equipment. Just want to sell the new machines off the lot!

You must go to my dealer! Had a salesman tell me I was foolish to spend $40 on parts for my old, obsolete wreck, I would be much better off with a new $36,000 tractor…..
Seriously, it sounds like you're on the right track, keep plugging away at it….

 

[t_quinn]

Two more quick questions:

Does anyone have the owners manual for this tractor? When I bought it a few years ago, I found one online somewhere but the computer I saved it to had a meltdown! I'm having a hard time finding one.

Second, while playing around with the tractor yesterday, I noticed a could not lower the 3 pt hitch. I don't use it at all, but it worked fine when I bought it. It is stuck in the up position. I will check to make sure the valve below the seat is not shut, but I am relatively certain it is not. Any suggestions?

I was standing on it, trying to put some weight on it, hoping it would drop, but I could not get it to do so. Maybe I left it up so long, it got stuck in place?

I am going to call some part suppliers today about my worn shaft issue to see if I can get the parts I need.

Thx again, what a great forum.

 

[lsmurphy]

Diagram helps a lot.

Check this out...never should have trusted the part guy at the local Kubota dealership.

It appears you knew this but i didn't. The stripped shaft that is on my machine appears to be a stub shaft only that likely does not go all the way back into the engine. (He alleged that it would require an entire engine tear down to replace it.) After surfing the internet until my eyes almost fell out, I found a parts diagram for my loader which is a Woods/Du-al 105. Under the "62 Pump Drive Kit" section it looks like they sell a replacement stub shaft. (Hard to tell if it is my part because their diagram sucks.) It also looks like they may sell my worn out coupling, although there is no price listed next to it, it says to call them.

Look at the diagram at http://www.messicks.com/WO/1007.aspx.

They show several different setups. Mine is the first (shown highest up) on the diagram. Pump to mount to roller chain sprocket to pump drive shaft (it has keyways on both ends) to pump coupling (18 spline) to drive shaft spline. The latter two parts are the ones I seek, which are worn and need replacing. I don't know what the other parts are beyond the drive shaft spline like the "pulley adaptor." I will have to remove pump (since I remounted it the other day hoping I could get it working again) and take a look at exactly how the stub shaft mounts to the engine (probably to the pulley, but I'm not sure).

Wow is it frustrating getting bad info from dealership. They don't seem to care much about people with old, used equipment. Just want to sell the new machines off the lot!

Thanks for all the help. I'll make some calls later today to see if those parts are available.

Look at the parts that are missing on the list........such as #9.........no price......'call'.....



Pulley adapter..........if you do NOT have the bolts around your pulley as I believe you said you do not.........you do not have the adapter.


Some have the adapter.......some do not, and the bolt on pulley adapter come in different, or CHANGE. the spline count and size.


If you have a single nut at your pulley.......the spline shaft is a part of the crank.......IS the crank.



Take some BIG pics of your pulley again and post please, the last ones were so small I could not study them.




You are NOT the first with this dilemma.........Messicks does not have your solution.....your dealer does not have your solution. I've spent hours looking over this myself.

 

[t_quinn]

Ok, I'll take some photos later today and send them to you. Thx.

Tim

 

[lsmurphy]

Below is just and illustration-

Some time back I planned on mounting a generator in the front of mine. Easy enough to do but the same problem, creating a drive.
It would be a no-brainer if I could just march on down to the dealer and buy a coupler for $30.

 

[lsmurphy]

Here is your SIMPLE solution.



Find a competent machinist.


Take a piece of 1" round stock 4" long.
Measure the round flat recessed section of your pulley, let's assume it is 3.5".
Have him take a piece of 3/8 plate and cut it round as to fit nicely against your pulley.
Have him drill a 1" hole in the center for a press fit of the 1" round stock.
Have him weld the 1" round stock to the 3/8 plate.
Have him drill three holes in the round plate.
Have him chuck it in a lathe to true the plate to the round stock.
Take off your pulley and have him drill and tap the pulley for the three holes in the plate.
Put the nut back on your crank approx where it would be with the pulley on.
Stuff a rag around the crank seal so no debris will get inside the engine.
With an angler grinder and a cut-off wheel, cut the old stub off the crank. Cut about 1/8 beyond the nut.
Clean cut with wire wheel, remove nut, this will ensure the threads are clean and you can thread the nut back on.
Reinstall the pulley,
Tighten nut.
Bolt on adapter.
Install Lovejoy.
Adapt shaft as necessary.

NEVER worry about it again.


Any machinist worth 2 cents should be able to accomplish what I described in about 2 hours and should not charge more that $200+.....material cost is negligible.



This will require you to permanently alter your crank, if you have the nerve to do so......

 

[t_quinn]

Look at the parts that are missing on the list........such as #9.........no price......'call'.....



Pulley adapter..........if you do NOT have the bolts around your pulley as I believe you said you do not.........you do not have the adapter.


Some have the adapter.......some do not, and the bolt on pulley adapter come in different, or CHANGE. the spline count and size.


If you have a single nut at your pulley.......the spline shaft is a part of the crank.......IS the crank.



Take some BIG pics of your pulley again and post please, the last ones were so small I could not study them.




You are NOT the first with this dilemma.........Messicks does not have your solution.....your dealer does not have your solution. I've spent hours looking over this myself.

Here is the photo. Hard to get my cellphone in there without tearing stuff apart.

 

[lsmurphy]

Yeah, that looks exactly like mine.


This is why I suggested the original adapter be threaded same the nut, so you could use the adapter as the nut and it would fit right up to the pulley.


The second suggestion, the SIMPLE one, will not work with this pulley.
There are pulleys with the adapter holes already in them.......different pulleys and I don't know if it will effect your belt alignment. Might look to another pulley, same engine but different pulley design.


I'm back to suggestion number one.

 

[t_quinn]

So you are absolutely certain that the splined shaft in the photo I posted is not a "stub" that will come right off if I find a tool (similar to a crazy deep socket wrench) to remove the nut and pulley? Just want to be sure, because it almost looks like it could be just a 2 to 3 inch stub... if it is not, I understand your suggestion murphy is to have that custom threaded bottle looking attachment (from your hand drawn diagram) made for me.

FYI, regarding the need for vibration tolerance - the double chain sprocket I currently have appears to have been designed for that purpose. It provides for a flex point in the otherwise straight shaft that runs between the female coupling and the back of the hydraulic pump...so maybe Wolfmans suggestion is acceptable as well.

 

[t_quinn]

This might not be ideal, but is workable. I had an L185DT, which is basically the same tractor. It came with a FEL, attached to the tractor hydraulics. The FEL operated slowly but with full power. I used it for a few days, then had the dealer install the front pump.
The port for the hydraulics is just to the left of the driver seat mount. It is a block about 1-1/2x3" or 2x4", maybe an inch thick, mounted with two or four bolts. Beneath the block are two ports; flow and return. All the block does is provide a passage for the flow from one to the other. Kubota sold the adapter block that replaced the above with two 3/8" or 1/2" fittings. If they don't still have such a thing, any machine shop could build one in short order. Just remove the installed block, hand it to them and ask for the same fit, with ports.
With that and some hydraulic hose you get to remove the front pump, associated hose and reservoir. The FEL will run about half speed.

Would be a great idea, but the hydraulics for my snow plow (to angle left and right) are already tapped into the block underneath the seat!

 

[lsmurphy]

 

[lsmurphy]

This is not your pulley but you can see that it is tapped for an adapter.

 

[lsmurphy]

 

[lsmurphy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kubota-Mits...K_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL&hash=item5af303992e



Here you go.

Realize this will cost you about $200 with shipping and duty.

and again.......you still gotta make it work.

 

[lsmurphy]

http://v2.us.sparex.com/ItemDetails/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemNumber=15073&SingleResultCriteria=S.15073


Go to your local aftermarket dealer and see if he can get you Sparex - Part No S.15073

 

[lsmurphy]

So you are absolutely certain that the splined shaft in the photo I posted is not a "stub" that will come right off if I find a tool (similar to a crazy deep socket wrench) to remove the nut and pulley? Just want to be sure, because it almost looks like it could be just a 2 to 3 inch stub... if it is not, I understand your suggestion murphy is to have that custom threaded bottle looking attachment (from your hand drawn diagram) made for me.

FYI, regarding the need for vibration tolerance - the double chain sprocket I currently have appears to have been designed for that purpose. It provides for a flex point in the otherwise straight shaft that runs between the female coupling and the back of the hydraulic pump...so maybe Wolfmans suggestion is acceptable as well.

Your splined adapter allowed for a lot of movement.


If you are at all off at the bolt on plate.........you will be that Xs 10 at the end of your adapter.


If you have one made it will need to be milled/lathed.

 

[lsmurphy]

BTW, your current splined adapter failed for two reasons, do you know what they are?

 

[lsmurphy]

Are the splines on your crank worn too?

 

[t_quinn]

1. I do not know the two reasons why the splined adaptor failed.

2. From your photo of the shaft it appears to be all one piece all the way through the engine and the splined part is not removable, correct?

3. The splines on the crank are worn to. See attached picture.

So again, you feel the best thing to do is have the part from your diagram made up, right? I'm just confused about why you are posting the links to the part from ebay or seek to find it at a local dealer...

Thanks again. You are a wealth of good information.