Need a solution for a worn pto splined shaft/female coupler for KUTBOTA L245DT

t_quinn

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Equipment
l245dt
Aug 27, 2012
17
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0
Duxbury, MA
I am looking for some much needed help.

A few years ago I bought a used 1980's vintage kubota L245DT with a loader. It runs like a champ and I've gotten more use out of it than I could have imagined. Anyhow, the loader is powered by a hydraulic pump mounted on the front of the tractor. (It appears to have been the original setup as it was purchased new from Kubota.) Hydraulic pump is connected to the front pto shaft. Recently, while plowing/lifting some snow, I noticed a crack in the frame the supports the loader. This, in addition to some serious whinning from pump and loss of power to the loader. Upon further inspection and removal of the hydraulic pump, I realized I have a problem which goes beyond a simple weld job on the frame.

The PTO shaft (18 splines) is badly worn, as are the teeth on the female coupler (also 18 splines, obviously) that is used to connect the PTO shaft to the hydraulic pump. (There is a one foot shaft with two chain sprockets that runs between the female coupler and the back of the hydraulic pump.)

I don't have the time or money to tear the machine completely down, which is what would be required to replace the PTO shaft (per local Kubota dealership). Even if I did that, I cannot find a replacement female coupler, since Kabota does not make it anymore. I've tried everywhere to find one, to no avail (local machine shops, hub city, salvage etc.). I've read many post on several different website detailing people with similar problems, but have yet to find someone who found a solution that worked.

I considered drilling and tapping several holes into the female coupler, so as to send threaded bolts through the holes to secure the female coupler to the worn shaft. Problem is the machine shop tried to drill the holes and snapped a bit in the process as the coupler is made of hardened steel. Even if they use a diamond or carbide bit to drill the hole, the guy at the shop told me I won't be able to tap a hole in order to screw the bolts through the holes.

Before I completely quit and weld the coupler to the shaft, I am trying to see if anyone else has any suggestions. Here are some others I've considered:

1). JB Weld/loctite. Probably not a real "solution," since it would be a temporary fix. Doubt it would even hold for long, but it would probably hold for a while. (I don't think the female coupling needs to slide back and forth on the pto, since the two sprockets appear to be made to serve that purpose (ie. they provide for some play front to back between the pto shaft and the hydraulic pump.)
2). Drill a hole or two completely through the female coupler and drill a similar hole all the way through the PTO shaft. Secure the two parts together with steel pins. This would probably work great, but I don't think I have enough room to fit a drill into the area where the PTO shaft is (ie. I don't want to disassemble the entire tractor to complete this repair.) Also, it will be difficult to prevent the drill bit from slipping on the PTO shaft and I doubt the bit will hold up when trying to drill through the female coupler and the PTO shaft. It will probably snap due to heat and inability to continue putting oil on the area I'm drilling.
3) find some type of a sleeve that will fit over the worn shaft. I'm envisioning something with a female end with 18 splines and a male end which would essentially be a brand new 18 spline shaft. I've seen similar pieces of gear meant to increase or decrease the size of a healthy shaft, but I've yet to find a device meant to be used on a worn shaft. I'm sure someone will say this idea won't work because even if such a device existed, the female side will probably slip on the worn shaft. But I suppose I could weld it on, effectively creating a new shaft.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I think I need Service Dept Vic!
 

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12448&highlight=love


This guy had the right idea.....however.......this could be vastly improved.


Think of a milled pulley mount........small axle shaft........coupler cut and welded to the milled section....lathe of course......


And a Lovejoy at the pump end.


All very doable, I can see it in my mind.


You have to have something that will absorb vibration.

Dont' even thing about welding up what you have.


How about a pic of your stub mount....what is attached to your pulley now? Edit: scratch that....the couple slides onto your crank shaft splined stub.....correct?
 
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lsmurphy

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B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN




If you can picture this adapter as a single milled piece with the new splined coupler welded onto it.......set up in a lathe........

Nearly vibration free.


I suspect a machine shop will charge you about $250.

Another $50 for Lovejoys and another $50 at the junk yard for an axle and spline section.


$350 or so.
 

t_quinn

New member

Equipment
l245dt
Aug 27, 2012
17
0
0
Duxbury, MA
I will share this information with the machinist who repaired my plow mount. Hard for me to envision this, but this is my first tractor and I am not very mechanically inclined. In the photo you posted, am I looking at the tip of the pto shaft through that fabricated adaptor? PTO shaft has a hollowed out hole in the tip, right?

I've looked at my pto shaft and it appears to me it is driven by a pully and belt. At first I thought the pto shaft was connected inside the engine somehow and driven from within...

Here are some photos so you can understand what I'm working with:
 

Attachments

t_quinn

New member

Equipment
l245dt
Aug 27, 2012
17
0
0
Duxbury, MA
One other thing occurred to me in reading a similar post...(and I'll confirm later by going out to look at my tractor)...


I'm fairly certain my pulley does not have any holes in it with which to attach that fabricated part you spoke of.

Check out this similar string...

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=736

He posts photos of his front pto shaft and pulley. I believe mine is the same set up.
 

lsmurphy

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Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
Another way to do it, probably my approach for simplicity sake-


Take off the pulley nut.
Measure the splined stub on the crank shaft.
Have machinist use round stock, 1.5" or 2", whatever it is, have him drill out the center for near press fit over the splined stub and extend out about 1.5" from it. Have him thread the inside at the pulley end the same as the threaded nut. At the pump end, have him turn it down to 1" for the Lovejoy. At the splined section of the adapter, have him drill and tap for 2 or 3 set screws, the set screws will be tightened against the splined shaft. Have him mill two flat spots on the adapter near the pulley so you can get a wrench on the adapter.
The new adapter becomes your new pulley nut and new stub shaft.


I see what the other guy did........yeah......OK.........


See if you can envision what I posted above.........
 
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lsmurphy

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Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
The idea here is........

For someone to create an adapter that will be as true to the crank as possible. Vibration will be your killer in the long term.

Also...see if your machinist can send it off to heat treat, may cost you about $50 but once threated it will outlast your tractor.

Yeah, you may come up with a rigged something or other that will get you by for a while, but what about 3 years from now?
 

gpreuss

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L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
Oct 9, 2011
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Spokane, WA
This might not be ideal, but is workable. I had an L185DT, which is basically the same tractor. It came with a FEL, attached to the tractor hydraulics. The FEL operated slowly but with full power. I used it for a few days, then had the dealer install the front pump.
The port for the hydraulics is just to the left of the driver seat mount. It is a block about 1-1/2x3" or 2x4", maybe an inch thick, mounted with two or four bolts. Beneath the block are two ports; flow and return. All the block does is provide a passage for the flow from one to the other. Kubota sold the adapter block that replaced the above with two 3/8" or 1/2" fittings. If they don't still have such a thing, any machine shop could build one in short order. Just remove the installed block, hand it to them and ask for the same fit, with ports.
With that and some hydraulic hose you get to remove the front pump, associated hose and reservoir. The FEL will run about half speed.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I've looked at my pto shaft and it appears to me it is driven by a pully and belt. At first I thought the pto shaft was connected inside the engine somehow and driven from within...
You should have stayed with your first thought!;)
That "PTO" shaft you keep quoting is not a PTO shaft it's the stub front end of the crank of the motor, That's the part all the pistons and rods are connected to. The crank turns the pulley which powers the alternator/dynamo, water pump, fan, and in this case you front hydraulic pump.

Real simple fix, add a plate welded to your existing coupler that will bolt to the pulley, TADA fixed!
 

lsmurphy

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B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
You should have stayed with your first thought!;)
That "PTO" shaft you keep quoting is not a PTO shaft it's the stub front end of the crank of the motor, That's the part all the pistons and rods are connected to. The crank turns the pulley which powers the alternator/dynamo, water pump, fan, and in this case you front hydraulic pump.

Real simple fix, add a plate welded to your existing coupler that will bolt to the pulley, TADA fixed!



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MagKarl

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L245DT
Aug 2, 2010
663
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Olympia, WA
I have the same tractor and my FEL runs off of the tractor hydraulic system as suggested by gpreuss. It works fine, so that's a good backup plan if your rework ideas don't pan out.
 

al b

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Equipment
l345dt, l48, l2550dt
Feb 15, 2012
46
0
6
Ct
I like Wolfman's idea. I have a l345dt that had the same issue before. What some one did before I owned it was someone put a small drive shaft on there. They welded a yoke to the PTO then a universal then another yoke then the pump. The pump has a key-way/key and a yoke a set screw to hold things together, . I don't look forward to ever taking that welded yoke off if needed, that is why I like Wolfman's idea.
 

lsmurphy

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Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
lsmurphy,
Does this clarify it?
View attachment 9797

Yeah, thats exactly what the guy with the pressure cleaner did and I guarantee you that he's got vibration.

And after 400 hours of vibration........seals.......pump bearings......something is going to give....the adapter will wallow out........

Spend $300 now or $1200 later.


I'm encouraging someone to SOLVE the problem that can be replicated for others. He's not the only one looking for a permanent solution.
 

t_quinn

New member

Equipment
l245dt
Aug 27, 2012
17
0
0
Duxbury, MA
Yeah, thats exactly what the guy with the pressure cleaner did and I guarantee you that he's got vibration.

And after 400 hours of vibration........seals.......pump bearings......something is going to give....the adapter will wallow out........

Spend $300 now or $1200 later.


I'm encouraging someone to SOLVE the problem that can be replicated for others. He's not the only one looking for a permanent solution.
LSMurphy could you please draw me up a quick diagram like Wolfman did so I can understand what you are suggesting? I think I understand most of it, but not all.

Thanks,

Tim
 

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN



I piece milled adapter.

The set screws will take the pressure off the crank threads, and if the machinist drills out the center for a slip/near press fit.....there should be little pressure in the threads anyway. The set screws will also ensure that the adapter does not back thread and come lose.
 

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN
BTW.........I say 1" lovejoy........could go 3/4 or 5/8 even....whatever works best and cost less.

You are only turning a pump........5/8 shaft will be plenty.
 

lsmurphy

Active member

Equipment
B7001
Oct 19, 2012
1,197
5
36
Parrrottsville TN



FWIW,

I designed this tool and had it built several years ago.

If you get the opportunity to design and create something from scratch.....it's very fun and rewarding.


Whatever you do, have fun with it and make it work.