Help please

[brunswick000]

So, alternator and starter are being rebuilt. Leak was acurately identified by someone more knowledgable than myself. Its the gasket between the block and the gear case. Bummer. Still debatable on the speed control plate as well so ill replace that to. Annnnnd, the oil pan is leaking...a little. Im pretty sure I have to remove the front drive shaft to drop that pan, which sucks cause I assume that means I have to drain the front diff, which I just changed.

On the plus side, this thing is gonna be like brand new when im done. Cheers

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[fj40dave]

I didn't price a rebuild kit per se when I did the 295, I just ordered what I needed (mostly from Messicks.com)...the total was around $750 by the time I was through. One of the bigger expences was the clutch components and the $80 piston (I dropped the orrig and broke a skirt on it ).

I hadn't rebuilt a 3 cyl diesel ever before however, I had rebuilt a 2cyl FordNewHolland that had a cracked rear piston a long time ago.

I think that anyone with an ounce of mechanical adventurism and patience should give this a try....ESPECIALLY with this forum as a resource....I get some great help here!

The pan gasket....ya, to do it "right"....dropping it down and cleaning both surfaces would be best...but, on a effort and time saver option....if it were me and my own tractor.....and the gasket that's there came off as a complete item (no need to scrape the old stuck on one)....I would consider removing all the bolts, drop the oil pan far onto the front drive shaft houseing, and wiggle the new gasket in-place (there will be a challenge of getting it past the oil pump pick-up tube/assy)......just a thought.

If you do remove the front end....just drain the front diff oil into a clean container and re-use it?

 

[MagKarl]

Looking at your pics, it appears the entire engine was painted at some point before you bought it, and the oil filter looks like it hasn't been changed since before the engine was painted. Might be something you want to change while you're planning your engine rebuild.

 

[brunswick000]

Ohhh yeah. Trust me that was my initial plan of action when I purchased it. Just now finding all these other issues im just holding off until all parts have been bought and then ill drain everything. Might even back flush the coolant instead of just a change. Should run top notch when im done.

Also, ill be leaving the old filters, coolant lines, etc when I repaint, so when I change them all they're new and shinny

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[brunswick000]

I didn't price a rebuild kit per se when I did the 295, I just ordered what I needed (mostly from Messicks.com)...the total was around $750 by the time I was through. One of the bigger expences was the clutch components and the $80 piston (I dropped the orrig and broke a skirt on it ).

I hadn't rebuilt a 3 cyl diesel ever before however, I had rebuilt a 2cyl FordNewHolland that had a cracked rear piston a long time ago.

I think that anyone with an ounce of mechanical adventurism and patience should give this a try....ESPECIALLY with this forum as a resource....I get some great help here!

The pan gasket....ya, to do it "right"....dropping it down and cleaning both surfaces would be best...but, on a effort and time saver option....if it were me and my own tractor.....and the gasket that's there came off as a complete item (no need to scrape the old stuck on one)....I would consider removing all the bolts, drop the oil pan far onto the front drive shaft houseing, and wiggle the new gasket in-place (there will be a challenge of getting it past the oil pump pick-up tube/assy)......just a thought.

If you do remove the front end....just drain the front diff oil into a clean container and re-use it?

I like your ideas about the oil pan, and reusing the front diff oil. One thing id like to know about is the oil pump pick-up. If this tractor has been somewhat neglected, is this part in jeopardy of becoming clogged? Should it be removed and cleaned somehow, or replaced....ever? Just don't want to do all that work only to have neglected something myself.

Thanks

 

[handyman]

You said it started slow. You are using glow plugs and letting them warm up about 90 seconds arent you. You never said if not warmed up long enough if like my B7100 it starts very slow.handy

 

[fj40dave]

I like your ideas about the oil pan, and reusing the front diff oil. One thing id like to know about is the oil pump pick-up. If this tractor has been somewhat neglected, is this part in jeopardy of becoming clogged? Should it be removed and cleaned somehow, or replaced....ever? Just don't want to do all that work only to have neglected something myself.

Thanks

The screen on the pick-up tube is not that fine mesh...I doubt there is any concern about it being plugged. (Im assuming you don't have clumps plugging up the drain bolt holes when you drain the oil )
It's not a part that would require replacement....they are pretty durable and are bolted to the bottom of the case.

 

[brunswick000]

You said it started slow. You are using glow plugs and letting them warm up about 90 seconds arent you. You never said if not warmed up long enough if like my B7100 it starts very slow.handy

I always utilize the glow plugs for 90 secs, the tractor is kept inside (unheated garage.....so far), and I plug in the block heater about half hour before starting.

Its just old and it was clearly neglected. Ive got no real use for it over the next month or two now that the snow is all gone so it will get the care and repair it needs. Ill start a new thread for the recondition. Should be some nice before and after pics. Itll be a while though.

 

[brunswick000]

Just a quick post to revive this thread once again before I start tearing my tractor down over the course of the coming summer months. I was looking the engine over again as I do, and found what im guessing is the oil pressure line coming out of the front of the block (L245DT) and runs up into the dash. The fitting at the block was incredibly loose, which could account for a lot of the oil that was photographed in the first few posts. Even after tightening the fitting up with pliers, it still seems pretty loose. Lots of play from the line at the fitting. I will guess that others here would replace this line? Seems like a more logical first attempt at curing the major oil leak, rather than going straight for the gear case. This fitting is right behind the fan, and it's under pressure, so it could account for a lot of the oil that was all over the machine, and easily could have tricked me into thinking it was the gear case.

Other than that, the oil pan gasket has been confirmed as a definite replacement. Its leaking along the front at the differential mount. Not thrilled about that job, but at least it might only be one huge job instead of two.

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[hainamaoyi]

thanks for the post!









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[brunswick000]

Finally got some more work done on the tractor. Took off all the old coolant lines. Some were in verrrrryyyyy bad condition. At first glance the coolant seemed to be in good condition. However, on further inspection it appears that there is a small amount of oil in the coolant. Not sure what that means exactly but im sure its not going to amount to anything good.

Anyone able to chime in with an idea of where it may be coming from? Im already prepared to completely rip this thing apart before this coming winter so let me have it, no matter how bad the prognosis.

Also on another note. Ill have to fab a new mount for both the rad and the battery. They're both so corroded im surprised they didn't fall right off. Just the hoses holding the rad in place. LOL! Almost hit me in the head when I took the last hose off. Lesson learned.

 

[brunswick000]

Disregard. Never considered checking the main webpage. Duh

It is a very small amount of oil and the tractor was well used before I got it. Soooo, this would leave me to believe that it is likely a cylinder head gasket. There has never been any white smoke from the stack while operating so my hope is that it is not a block liner. Hopefully. Also, I would think that based on what ive read that there would be a lot more oil in the coolant if it were a frost plug. Pressure test is in order either way. Ill report back when a solution is found. Thanks me for checking on my own.....oh your welcome.

 

[gurn]

Just a thought on the oil pan leak, When I took the pan off my L175 the bolts were lose it seemed to me. Have you checked the tightness of your bolts? May be they are lose also and you can tighten them up a bit. At least until you are ready to tear it all down.

 

[brunswick000]

Just a thought on the oil pan leak, When I took the pan off my L175 the bolts were lose it seemed to me. Have you checked the tightness of your bolts? May be they are lose also and you can tighten them up a bit. At least until you are ready to tear it all down.

Coincidentally this is the job im looking forward the least. Laying on my back, and having to remove the front drive shaft. Ugggghhhh. I would think that even if the bolts were loose, and then tightened, that they would continue to weep a little. Quick fix I agree, but it would drive me nuts. I don't really need the tractor in the summer. Yes, it will be awesome to have it when im done, but it is a necessary tool for the winter. My point being that I have time to do it right, so I might as well. Thanks just the same.

 

[brunswick000]

Well it has been some time since I have either been on this site, or have been able to work on the tractor. Finally got a half hours work done today. Not much time but at least its finally started.

Got the as far as removing the valve lever cover. Looked pretty good in there. No popped frost plugs, which is actually a downer to me. There was not a lot of oil in the coolant in the first place. I didn't even realize there was any until the coolant had time to sit in the bucket I drained it into.

That being said, is it the opinion of others here that it is likely a frost plug and I should proceed with removal of the gear case? Or, given the small amount of oil, should I remove the head and replace the gasket? I already have the majority of the disassembly required done, so despite the fact that I REALLY do not want to tackle the gear case it may just be now or never. Uuuugggghhhh! Just the perils of purchasing a 30+ year old machine I suppose.

I absolutely neeeeed this tractor before the snow flies this year. I just hope, hope, hope its not a cracked block liner.