D905E injector pump governor springs and linkage arms please help!!!

[Buggyalstare]

Hello guys, I just bought a jacobsen utv sv3422. It has a D905E kubota 3 cylinder diesel engine. I bought it not running. The guy I bought it from had just replaced the injector pump. He also gave me a new 12v fuel pump with it. I got it home and tested the shutoff solenoid and it was working.

I then tested the fuel pump in it and it was working. I had fuel to the injector pump but nothing from there on. I then removed the injector pump and the plate below it that holds the linkage arms. Once removed I noticed a spring to the left just dangling inside. I also noticed the slider on the injector pump was on the back side of governor arm. So it could not be slid to the open position allowing fuel to run.

Now I've searched high and low on the Internet looking for images showing me where the springs go and how the linkage arms should be. And I cannot find anything for this setup. Hopefully somebody here can point me in the right direction. Thank yous!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Good news and bad news.

First the good: You can get a copy of the service manual for that engine here: http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Engines/
It's the 05 series.

Just a note, on the 12V fuel pump, make sure it's the low volume and low pressure model or it will blow the seals right out of the injection pump.

Now for the bad, looks like your missing a part:
It would be on the 2 pilot rivets on the side of the rack.
here is the picture of the part and the rear spring attached to it.

 

[Buggyalstare]

Some more pics of inside with injection pump removed. To the right is a spring that doesn't appear to do or go to anything. Possibly broke? Then to the left side of the shut off solenoid is another small spring dangling. Not sure where it goes either?

 

[Buggyalstare]

Thank you north Idaho Wolfman! I see what your talking about. It's the piece I'm missing part of the arm where the rivets are? Or is it a separate piece? I wander if I can even buy that piece? Oh how I hate bad news! I was really hoping I had gotten a good deal on this lil machine and could bring it home and get it fixed. Not throwing the towel in just yet. I will definitely go to local kubota dealer tomorrow and see if parts are available for this.

I really hope I don't have to get into the timing either. Am I right by saying as long as I don't rotate it I can safely put it back together?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What you need is called the trust lever, P/N 16271-56214
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=546095

Part#60 on the schematic

If you really want to spend the money and do a lot more work you can buy the whole assembly, P/N 16216-56040
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=543820

Part# 50 on the schematic

You can rotate the engine without a problem, it's shims under the Injection pump that adjust timing, and a set of gears that you shouldn't have to get into.

 

[Buggyalstare]

WOW! Lol I have been on this computer since you first responded to this post and I did see Colemans site but didn't see a break down like what you have here. Well you've answered my question this piece alone can be purchased and is definitely cheap enough. Thank you so much for steering me on the right direction!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Oh and your also going to need spring #20 if you don't have it already, it connects to the speed control plate.
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=558472

 

[Fordguy100]

I'm extremely happy to find this thread, and its recent as well (you know how when you google something on forums every thread you find is ancient).

I have been working on a Power Tech generator out of a motor home. It has a Kubota D905E, and much like the OP I am missing pieces. But, its due to my stupidity more than anything. The rack is semi frozen on the IP, and while pushing/pulling the rack pin, I broke the darned "trust lever." Talk about bummed. It broke in two, and I was able to retrieve the parts. It appears the rack was so tight because cylinder #3 on the IP is having something go wrong (the bottom roller is stuck in the up position, not touching the IP cam.

So I was worried I was going to have to CAD this piece up and get it made up someplace, but low and behold...ITS RIGHT HERE! Makes me excited. Now, the only problem I see is that lever (the main part in the part #50 assembly) has those two rivets(?) that the "trust lever" sits behind...and thats the problem. That trust lever sits behind those rivets.

To get the new trust lever in place, those rivets (or whatever you want to call them) can not be there, which has me wondering how you would go about this. The lazy way would be to buy the whole assembly, but I would much rather just buy the trust lever. Perhaps grind the back of them off, and the weld them back on after installing the trust lever? I just dont know...

I dont suppose we cant just pull them out of the lever?

 

[Buggyalstare]

Hello fordguy, what I ended up doing is ordering the part I needed and when it came I noticed 2 little cracks on it. Well rather then waiting another week for a new one to come I ended up using it as its not a really stressed part.

I wandered the same thing... so here is what I did, to the left side where the spring attaches I drilled 2 holes to allow the part to go over the rivet heads then slid it to the right in its resting place. Between the spring and the lever on the IP the part is kept in place. My son has been driving this lil truck for a little over a week now starting and shutting the engine off numerous times and we have not had an issue at all. Works perfect.

I hope this helps you out with yours! Good luck!

 

[Fordguy100]

With that said, looks like I will be ordering just that part! Thanks!

So that piece has enough meat to drill two holes big enough to fit over those rivets?

 

[Buggyalstare]

Yes it did. Like I said I drilled my holes out to the left side of it. That way when it's in place it won't be able to pop back off. And so far knock on wood it's been working like a charm!

 

[johnboy29]

hi guys, I have just done rebuilt injector pump and removed all governor parts and replaced. New thrust levers are now hardened steel and sold ex Japan $65 plus freight plus GST

The thrust lever you are refering to is easier than you expect....take the plate of the outside of the engine housing that the governor shaft pivots on ( 2 10mm bolts ), remove gasket, remove collar then insert a small machine screw into the end of the shaft, slowly pull the shaft out and hold govenor at the same time. Take it nice and slow as there is only 1 washer closet to you on the governor...it may stay on governor...do not pull shaft out all the way only as far as you can lift the governor out. Put in vice carefully

sand the rear side of the 2 rivets flush and then tap them out with a small punch. Put your new thrust lever on, rivets back in and then braze the rear of the rivets...do not weld as this is cast

carefully put everything back to together in the reverse order not forgeting to place the shaft washer back as you slide it all together. Springs back in and job done...simple

Hope this helps you all as any other way is just a nightmare and not good

the other thing is if you have broken the thrust lever you will of most certainly broken the throttle control slide on the injector pump...if you have then these are almost not available from Japan any more and if you can find one you will be paying about $295 plus costs. These need to be sweated out using propane or gas, another pin machined to match the old broken one and the sweated back in...not so hard or scary but damn annoying when all this happens

Good luck guys, as always take the calm, and slow approach it will always pay off in the end

 

[1SGCSM]

Good afternoon,

We’re working on a 2005 BX 23 with a D905 engine. One of the trust levers is broke. Do we have to remove the injection pump in order to pull the rest of the levers out?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Good afternoon,

We’re working on a 2005 BX 23 with a D905 engine. One of the trust levers is broke. Do we have to remove the injection pump in order to pull the rest of the levers out?

You'll need to remove the front gear case cover to replace Governor parts.