B2650 aux lighting

[hatfieldsminifarm]

Hello j.t. here co owner hatfields mini farm. I have a b2650 with fel, and need to add aux lighting to the rops bar as I have no work lights and my fel attachments block the head lights making them useless. Northern tool sells brackets to add one or two light bars but I don't know how to wire them, and also I would like to add some lights that are closer to the operators station that I can use if my rops bar is folded down. Ideas and help is appreciated thanks. #hatfields mini farm

 

[85Hokie]

Lots of choices for lights!

Wiring can be VERY straight forward - most kits come with a relay and a switch, here is an example.

LIGHTS and harness and switch for <25 bucks

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH30...ix=aux+led+lights+with+switch,aps,107&sr=8-12

 

[i7win7]

Here's what I did to my Kabotas

Adding electrical devices to tractor

Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[OntheRidge]

Hello j.t. here co owner hatfields mini farm. I have a b2650 with fel, and need to add aux lighting to the rops bar as I have no work lights and my fel attachments block the head lights making them useless. Northern tool sells brackets to add one or two light bars but I don't know how to wire them, and also I would like to add some lights that are closer to the operators station that I can use if my rops bar is folded down. Ideas and help is appreciated thanks. #hatfields mini farm

I like these.

Kubota B Series ROPS Lights LED Worklight Kits |

www.ropslights.com

 

[hatfieldsminifarm]

Thanks for the ideas, I was thinking two light bars on top of the rops, and then lights mounted on the sides lower that I can use if rops is folded down, just don't know where to put all the switch's any ideas for that

 

[FattyArbuckle]

Thanks for the ideas, I was thinking two light bars on top of the rops, and then lights mounted on the sides lower that I can use if rops is folded down, just don't know where to put all the switch's any ideas for that

I hate putting holes in nice panels (Swiss cheese). i7win7 has a really clean install with the switches and with the ability to hook up different electrical devices. Look at his link above, it's pretty thorough.

 

[6feettogo]

This is what I did on my B2650. The one switch turns on the front facing lights and the other turns on the rear facing lights. Just be sure that the total amp draw isn't more than what the dynamo puts out unless you changed it to a alternator.

 

[chim]

Here are a few approaches I used. ROPS mounted lights is my last choice. I tried that and was not satisfied with the installation. I tried it on the first two open station Kubotae (slow learner). A couple of the negatives of that location were:

1. They attracted bugs. Attracting bugs isn't all that bad except the proximity of the lights to my head made it a problem. Attracting bugs to the grille or outside the cab is no big deal.

2. The lights from the ROPS mounted lights, being higher and behind me, caused substantial glare bouncing off the lenses of my glasses.

As I mentioned before, floods are my go-to for lights. Get as much light as possible spread out near the tractor. No point in using spots on something with a max speed of 17MPH The amount of light that the LED's produce while sipping a small number of electrons make them a good investment.

First two pics are from the first Kubota (B7500). After my first bad experience with ROPS mounted lights I mounted a couple on the FEL frame. I can't find any night shots but they worked very well. They threw a wide pattern with no glare problem. They lit a wide 180° area.

Third pic is the L3200 with DIY cab. It had two each of Front, Rear and Side mounted at the top of the cab. These were old school halogen lights like the ones on the B7500.

Last two pics are the L4240. This has two each Rear and Side, plus four on the front. These are all LED, and they make a whiter light. The front has two on the factory cab locations and two in the grille. The two on the grille work best for mowing because they shine across the grass to better differentiate between the cut/uncut. The two higher ones are flipped on mostly when the FEL, forks, etc are being used on the front.

The last pic is also from the L41242 and shows the area lit with a sidelight that is tucked into the loader frame tube. The fore and aft mounted lights left the areas to the sides of the cab unlit. This was especially annoying when mowing at night. Tucking them into the loader frame tubes keep them totally out of harm's way.

 

[kubotasaurus]

Chim's thought about the glare of overhead lights is interesting. I just put ROPS mounted lights on my B2601 last week. My glasses are for reading, so luckily that reflection shouldn't be an issue for me. I think lights mounted on the loader frame would have the same issue as the headlights. The light would be blocked by the bucket.

I borrowed an idea from this thread, which is similar to what i7win7 did. I mounted a fuse block from the battery. It's connected through a relay so it is only powered when the key is on. I put mine under the hood instead of on the fender. you can see the relay next to it.

I used the fuse block because I'm also going to run a 12v plug for a water transfer pump. I don't like having to lift the hood to use the battery clips for the pump and then driving around with the hood up.

I ran the wires through the ROPS to mostly hide them. The wire butt connectors for the light cubes wouldn't fit through the smaller holes on the side of the ROPS, so there is a small bunch of wires zip tied at the light. (I wish I had a crimping tool for the Deutch DT connectors so I could cut the wires shorter. They look to be over $100 though)

I bought wiring kits with the lights. I didn't like the little round switches they came with as they didn't look very weather proof to me. I bought (what are supposed to be) marine grade switches to use instead.

The relays for the switches are behind the dash.

 

[kubotasaurus]

Sorry for the huge reply. Maybe I should have made my own build thread and just linked it here.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Sorry for the huge reply. Maybe I should have made my own build thread and just linked it here.

No need to apologize, pics are always welcome.

Nice install BTW!

 

[dirtydeed]

here's what I used....same model tractor.

lighted switch in dash, wiring harness uses a relay that is wired to battery. That means you can turn the lights on without the ignition being in the on position.

Was able to fish the wire up inside the ROPS and out the top hole. I used magnets for the light mounts. Easy-peasy.

You can rotate the lights on the magnetic mounts to any position. The strong magnets have not budged a single bit.

 

[kubotasaurus]

Hello j.t. here co owner hatfields mini farm. I have a b2650 with fel, and need to add aux lighting to the rops bar as I have no work lights and my fel attachments block the head lights making them useless. Northern tool sells brackets to add one or two light bars but I don't know how to wire them, and also I would like to add some lights that are closer to the operators station that I can use if my rops bar is folded down. Ideas and help is appreciated thanks. #hatfields mini farm

I may still have the drawing of the wiring connections from my install. If you want, I could upload it for you to look at.

 

[kubotasaurus]

here's what I used....same model tractor.

lighted switch in dash, wiring harness uses a relay that is wired to battery. That means you can turn the lights on without the ignition being in the on position.

Was able to fish the wire up inside the ROPS and out the top hole. I used magnets for the light mounts. Easy-peasy.

You can rotate the lights on the magnetic mounts to any position. The strong magnets have not budged a single bit.

I also used magnets for the top light bar. I borrowed that idea from someone (maybe you lol). I used bolt on brackets for the cubes on the side because I was worried that the magnets wouldn't hold on a vertical surface and would slide around.

 

[cthomas]

Sorry but no pictures. I used a weather proof box and screwed that to the bracket for the snowblower rotator handle. Used Nilight LED lights and the harness.

 

[hatfieldsminifarm]

This is what I did on my B2650. The one switch turns on the front facing lights and the other turns on the rear facing lights. Just be sure that the total amp draw isn't more than what the dynamo puts out unless you changed it to a alternator.

I may be retarded but what is the difference I thought it already had an alternator

 

[kubotasaurus]

I may be retarded but what is the difference I thought it already had an alternator

I'm not sure which models have which technology, but my B2601 has a dynamo. A dynamo produces DC power. An alternator produces AC which is then converted to DC for use in the vehicle. An alternator can produce more power, more efficiently than a dynamo. I'm pretty sure a dynamo is cheaper, thus it's use here.
As you start charging your cell phone, adding lights, sprayer, and other devices that draw power, the dynamo may not be able to keep up with demand. The result is the battery is drained faster than the dynamo can recharge it.

 

[6feettogo]

I may be retarded but what is the difference I thought it already had an alternator

I probably should have said a car type alternator that puts out a lot more amperage.

 

[Chad D.]

I may be retarded but what is the difference I thought it already had an alternator

If you have a ROPS B2650, you’ve got a 14.5A Dynamo. A real turd when it comes to making auxiliary current. Here’s a thread for a ridiculously easy retrofit project that’ll triple your output.

B2650 alternator upgrade

OK fellas. I know this has been done before by others, but wanted to post it up just in case someone isn’t aware and may benefit. There’s no way to sugar coat it. The 14A dynamo on our B2650s is the limiting factor if you have any electrical items that you want to add. Just a few auxiliary...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[hatfieldsminifarm]

If you have a ROPS B2650, you’ve got a 14.5A Dynamo. A real turd when it comes to making auxiliary current. Here’s a thread for a ridiculously easy retrofit project that’ll triple your output.

B2650 alternator upgrade

OK fellas. I know this has been done before by others, but wanted to post it up just in case someone isn’t aware and may benefit. There’s no way to sugar coat it. The 14A dynamo on our B2650s is the limiting factor if you have any electrical items that you want to add. Just a few auxiliary...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Thanks for the information I have added a led emergency light bar that is magnetic and plugs into the power port.