Fueling my L3800 sucks !

TexasBoy · Jul 21, 2015

I got tired of the fuel jug thing and put together a small transfer tank.

Built a strong pallet for the tank out of treated material so I can easily put the entire thing in the back of my truck with the FE loader and pallet forks when its time to refill the tank.

Then put a 12V Fill-Rite on the tank, a water & sediment filter and filled 'er up with red Ag diesel.

I bought some 10awg stranded, waterproof/insulated cable from the electrical parts house, and ran it straight from the battery on the L4600 (covered with the correct size wire-loom to further protect it) to a place where its easy to connect to without opening the tractors hood. So when its time to refuel, drive up to the tank, connect the pump cable to the 12V power on the L4600 (the Fill-Rite comes with a long cable), and fill 'er up. Refueling is now super easy.

CaveCreekRay · Jul 21, 2015

I am going to Central Texas next time I need gas...

Any idea what that piggy weighs full?

ShaunRH · Jul 21, 2015

Nice setup TexasBoy!

It's out of my price range but nice nonetheless!

Lots of Texas folks on this board. When I finally retire and get out there permanently, we'll have to have a git tagether!

TexasBoy · Jul 21, 2015

CaveCreekRay said:
Any idea what that piggy weighs full?

Diesel is about 8 lbs per gallon and that is a 96 gallon tank. I put 95 gallons in it when I refill so that is about 760 lbs. Add in the pallet and pump probably around 800 lbs if I had to guess. Wasnt any problem lifting it off the truck bed when I came back from the bulk fuel station.

clay45 · Jul 21, 2015

I think diesel is likely closer to 6 lbs/gallon since water is 8lbs/gallon. Still heavy.

D2Cat · Jul 21, 2015

If you go to the trucker's forum, they know their fuel weights so they get maximum loads.

They say imperial gal of diesel is 8#/gallon
diesel is 7.2# (US gallons)
water is 8.3# (US gallons)
gasoline is 5.8-6.5# ([US gallons)

TexasBoy · Jul 22, 2015

I rounded up to 8 after a quicky Google search. I figured that was close enough.

D2Cat · Jul 22, 2015

TexasBoy, regardless of what fuel weights, your tractor will pick the thing up, it looks good, and it works without wearing you out. Nice job!

CaveCreekRay · Jul 22, 2015

Thanks!

I thought it might be a 152 gallon tank! Couldn't make out the sticker!!!

TexasBoy · Jul 22, 2015

CaveCreekRay said:
Thanks!

I thought it might be a 152 gallon tank! Couldn't make out the sticker!!!

Got it at Tractor Supply. I dont recall exactly what I paid, but they were having a big sale and I got it lots cheaper than their usual price.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/delta-steel-transfer-tank-96-gal

Tallahassee Kubota Man · Jul 27, 2015

Anyone tried these containers? Decent price and should have a pretty fast delivery.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/vpracin...-Square.aspx?gclid=CN3v9p_TlcECFW4V7AodB0YAAw

Daren Todd · Jul 27, 2015

I use a set of these cans at work. Thinking seriously about getting one for the house. Can doesn't start pouring till you squeeze the handle. And you can control the flow by how much you move the valve.

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GaryL · Jul 28, 2015

I have to admit, I did not read all 12 pages, but i wanted to add a suggestion if it has not already been mentioned. I have both the No-Spill brand and the typical piece of garbage EPA regulated nozzle cans. The No-Spill cans are great, but to make them better, put in a vent hole. You can buy gas can vents online from ebay for cheap. The gas/diesel flows out incredibly fast. Can fill 5 gallons in under a minute. The other cans, the vent causes gas to leak from the nozzle vent, so I replaced those with the EZ-Pour replacement spouts. I use storage caps when not in use. Wow...They look like the gas cans of the past, which worked better, for longer. These new ones spill more gas from the POS nozzles than any environmental savings they would ever provide. Hope it helps.

Tallahassee Kubota Man · Jul 28, 2015

Daren, those are some nice containers.....bet they cost a pretty penny.

Daren Todd · Jul 28, 2015

Tallahassee Kubota Man said:
Daren, those are some nice containers.....bet they cost a pretty penny.

I'm thinking your right

More like bend of and spread them and neglect to get the kiss afterwords.

This place had a better price for them. Grainger was rediculous on the price

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...gclid=CIW6-_iv_sYCFQEcaQodtT8JtQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

85Hokie · Jul 28, 2015

Daren Todd said:
I use a set of these cans at work. Thinking seriously about getting one for the house. Can doesn't start pouring till you squeeze the handle. And you can control the flow by how much you move the valve.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Daren,

for the cost of it, and you cannot find them anymore, that RED container is the lick - I like that can and the bigger version of it, first thing to do is drill a small 1/4 hole in the top - place a piece of 1/4" plastic tubing in the hole allow it to stick in about 3" and out the same. The hose is a tight fit. Place a nail/screw or whatever in the hose. It vents at a rate that is usable , yet does NOT burp and throw gas out either. I have use 3 containers like this for the last ten years.....
the handle on the back is the best part!

lreops · Jul 28, 2015

I think that this approach is probably the best that I've seen. I've tried many different approaches with dealing with venting these newer containers and most times still get some spillage from the vent because of its low profile and getting the angle right to fill whatever I'm filling. With this method, the extension of the valve stem offers the extra height in venting that a greater tip of the container can be accomplished.

Check out this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lcnwdIYEfI

That's my 2½¢ worth of brain activity.

Ron

bcuster · Jul 28, 2015

Since I will have a fork lift when I get my B2650 soon, here's my plan....

1. A 55 gal metal drum (or maybe a plastic drum I also have)
2. A Fill-Rite FR112 hand operated rotary pump (to control fuel flow better), plus no need for electric:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200129224_200129224

3. Two stacked pallets. The bottom with a solid top to set the barrel on, and a second pallet nailed to the bottom pallet, and using a jig saw to cut out a hole big enough to support the drum that is set down in the hole.

When a refiill is needed, use the fork lifts to move it to a trailer and to the gas station. Since the refuel pallet will be on a conrete floor of a heated garage, I plan to put locking caster wheels under the pallet to make it easier to move closer to tractor. Plus standing on the pallet should get me higher than the hood to look in the fill neck to avoid overfilling.

My question is how to install a fuel/water filter on this style pump??

Daren Todd · Jul 29, 2015

You can get a fuel filter base either off ebay, or through your local auto parts store. If you go the auto parts store route, just make sure and talk to the manager or assistant manager. They are more knowledgeable then the kid fresh out of school.

Hooking them up is a breeze. Just unscrew the hose. Then you add a pipe nipple where you unscrewed the discharge hose. Screw the base to the nipple. Then on the other side just screw the discharge hose in. Nipple will either be a 1/2npt or 3/4npt depending on the size of the hand pump. I'll edit in a pick of our electric fuel pump's filter and base in a few

Benhameen · Jul 31, 2015

All of my fueling woe's went away when the local Casey's General Store added diesel fuel. woohoo!!

Now its either 3/4 of a mile on the road or threw the woods and over the ditch to fuel up.

Fueling my L3800 sucks !

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