Recent content by rodburner

I am no diesel mechanic by any means but I believe they have to come out from the bottum, meaning you will have to remove the crank. On some engines the cylinder gets smaller at the top to help the rings seal at the top of the stroke. I am sure some one smarter than me will chime in soon.

I have to fold mine down after every use to put it in a shed. I replaced the two bolts you have to remove to fold with clevis pins.........Snap.

I have the opportunity to purchase a pallet load of miscellaneous parts including 5 loader valve assemblies for L, M and BX series. These are complete assemblies with brackets, levers and hardware. There are a couple of third function valve assemblies, light kits and other unknown parts. This is...

Thanks Wolfman!

Can anyone provide me with an exploded view of said loader valve. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys.........miss me? I haven't posted in over three years, mostly because the old Kubota has been trouble free. So here we go. L3010 with L481 loader and L2085 control valve. The problem, I have to be very careful when lowering or she drops like it is in float. When it gets to the ground...

All level now!!!!!! Just hope it stays that way. As suspected the stress was all located in the boom cross tube right side, at least that was the only place I could find a degree of deflection when under a load. I put extra pressure in the rear tires, placed the bucket on the ground under...

Well just got the old bota out for winter work and noticed my bucket problem is back with a vengeance. I went through everything I did last year with no change, I must have been on unlevel ground when I thought it was fixed……….or drunk maybe. I will try to keep my explanation as short as...

no worries, they are self bleeding (for lack of a better term). the return tank has air in it and the pump will suck fluid from the bottom thus air will be replaced with fluid. just change out your hoses and cycle a few times and you shoud be fine.

I want to add a single remote to the back, this seems like it would be simple but I obviously don’t understand hydraulics. My return must go back to the reservoir. I don’t want to have to tap into the metal high pressure line from the pump but if that is the only way then so be it. It just seems...

Okay, went to the hydraulic specialty store and got a bunch of fittings. Don’t know where to hook up at the front hydraulic block, I can fill the hoses but no high pressure. Everything else works fine. Which port should I be hooking up to and if I “T” in the right place will the loader still...

Hey guys, I don’t really know how to pose this question but here goes. I have a 99 L3010 that I am trying to add a post driver to. This tractor came with a front loader and backhoe so it has no auxiliary control valve to hook up hydraulics. I am looking for ideas as to where to tap into the...

I agree with you completely. If it takes 20 seconds to charge the springs instead of 10 seconds thats still a gazillion times faster than digging a hole and mixing concrete. My main concern is running the pump at full capacity. I don’t want to wear something out prematurely or cause a failure...

Well back to the drawing board. The PTO pump has less capacity then the pump on my tractor.....................now what

Good Idea, I actually have a PTO pump for the backhoe. I guess i could put on some quick couplers and fab a return. Now to find out what the specs on the pump are. Thanks