I have a MX5000 and just had the transmission seal replaced which required spilling the case. When I got it back the hour and tach were working but shortly thereafter they both stopped. I ordered a new cable and the service guy replaced it. The gauge side had broken several inches back. Now a week later the tach and hour meter are not working again. Any suggestions? Many thanks
Tach and Hour Meter Cable
- Thread starter AAGA
- Start date
First, I’d find out where the new-cable broke. (If that’s the problem... it might be another issue, such as the cable was not properly/completely installed onto the instrument housing, etc.)
Dry-Graphite is “hydroscopic”... meaning it will absorb water/humidity and can become very stiff . I know...I know.... it’s what our grandfathers put in key-holes so it must be good...??
But there is an excellent after-market mfr’r who knows how to maintain stuff and they sell both cables AND their own lube: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-03344-Graphite-Cable-Lubricant/dp/B0185XNU64
Dry-Graphite is “hydroscopic”... meaning it will absorb water/humidity and can become very stiff . I know...I know.... it’s what our grandfathers put in key-holes so it must be good...??
But there is an excellent after-market mfr’r who knows how to maintain stuff and they sell both cables AND their own lube: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-03344-Graphite-Cable-Lubricant/dp/B0185XNU64
You could try fine molybdenum disulfide powder. Tungsten disulfide is probably better but more expensive and less common.
Really appreciate the help. I ordered the lube recommendation from Amazon. I have already ordered a OEM cable from Kubota. Going to also check the install to make sure I route it back to the tach with no sharp angles. The present install seems tight. Thanks again.
Dry cable and poor routing. Big curves and if you have to zig, try then to zag (making a 'S'). I bet you'll discover a sharp bend that was loading the cable.
Expanding upon what I meant earlier about improper installation:
I have witnessed speedo cables installed poorly that behaved as broken cables do.
The cable is made up of an outer-sheath/housing and the drive-cable is actually a twisted-wire/cable that runs inside the housing. The ends are usually “square” in cross-section... one end will be forged and the other may have a swaged-end (where a metal tip is crimped onto the drive-cable). Sometimes the metal tip has a “tooth” which slips into a slot in the receiver. I have seen the tip not properly/securely crimped such that it “spun” on the cable...not driving the instrument.
I have seen where a “technician” did not want to replace the entire assembly and instead inserted only the inner drive-cable in the original sheath... and the drive cable was slightly short... and it slipped out of position thereby failing to drive the instrument.
Another problem with replacing only the drive-cable and not the whole assembly of sheath-and-cable is that a rough break internal in the sheathing... will still be there to damage the new inserted drive cable. (The sheathing is made up of spiral-lapped metal strip which can break at sharp bends and the internal break quickly ruins the new inner-drive-cable.). It’s a set-up for early failure of the new part.
The OEM part/complete assembly is the best solution, IMO.
I have witnessed speedo cables installed poorly that behaved as broken cables do.
The cable is made up of an outer-sheath/housing and the drive-cable is actually a twisted-wire/cable that runs inside the housing. The ends are usually “square” in cross-section... one end will be forged and the other may have a swaged-end (where a metal tip is crimped onto the drive-cable). Sometimes the metal tip has a “tooth” which slips into a slot in the receiver. I have seen the tip not properly/securely crimped such that it “spun” on the cable...not driving the instrument.
I have seen where a “technician” did not want to replace the entire assembly and instead inserted only the inner drive-cable in the original sheath... and the drive cable was slightly short... and it slipped out of position thereby failing to drive the instrument.
Another problem with replacing only the drive-cable and not the whole assembly of sheath-and-cable is that a rough break internal in the sheathing... will still be there to damage the new inserted drive cable. (The sheathing is made up of spiral-lapped metal strip which can break at sharp bends and the internal break quickly ruins the new inner-drive-cable.). It’s a set-up for early failure of the new part.
The OEM part/complete assembly is the best solution, IMO.
Thanks for the message. The cable replacement was a OEM Kubota part I ordered from Messicks. The new replacement which is OEM should be here shortly. I did not lube the last one, but will this time. I will also pay more attention to the routing. Wish me luck. Thanks
Steve Colgare
Steve Colgare
Well folks I think I found the problem. When I connected the new cable I ran it over the upper support bracket for the gas tank. With the dash panel out everything looks fine and no sharp angles. However, when place the panel back in it goes in at an angle cause a stress point between the cable the bracket and the tach causing the cable to fail quickly. Routing the cable under the support bracket resulted in no pinched cable and now working fine. For good measure I did use dry lube. Thanks.
Steve Colgate
Steve Colgate