I have my L3600 tractor split. I have always had a small leak out of the bell housing water drain. I figure it is from the seal on the front shaft. #70 in the diagram. It shows two of them. Has anyone replaced these without tearing it down any more than this? Any tips on getting the seal out? Thought of the screw technique or trying a small pick. its up in there a fair amount, so access isnt that great. Thanks .
Replacing front prop shaft seal
- Thread starter emac
- Start date
I found a good video on youtube. Dug into mine today and got the seals out. I used some picks for the first seal and a screw for the second one. Just had to be careful not to allow the shaft to come out too.
The seals seals were facing opposite directions. I am 100% positive they were like this. Spring part of the the outer seal was facing towards the bell housing, as to keep fluid from bell housing from entering mid case. Inner seal was to keep hydraulic fluid in case.
When you remove the inner seal, lots of fluid comes out fast and raising the front doesnt stop it. Have a bucket ready!
The seals seals were facing opposite directions. I am 100% positive they were like this. Spring part of the the outer seal was facing towards the bell housing, as to keep fluid from bell housing from entering mid case. Inner seal was to keep hydraulic fluid in case.
When you remove the inner seal, lots of fluid comes out fast and raising the front doesnt stop it. Have a bucket ready!
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Fixing the transmission oil seals on the front driveshaft has been a "thing" for several years - Many owners have done it themselves - including me. My L48 has the same construction in that area - the shaft to the front runs through the clutch housing inside a tube.
When I had my L48 apart for HST repair, I replaced the clutch because the tractor was split already and it was relatively easy to do. A few pages into my HST job, in Post #50 there are pictures and WSM drawings that show the shaft seal job. I didn't do a video of the seal replacement, but the description has been useful to several people here and on OTT who have put the "new" seals in their rigs.
People sometimes say its important not to pull the shaft out to work on the seals. The shaft is quite long - going back through HST and gear housings to the front end of the differential housing. There is a sliding coupling at the rear end of the shaft that can come out of position, making it hard to get the shaft back in. It usually stays put but, if it gets loose, unbolting the next housing isn't much work to put it back in place - especially with the tractor already split. There's a photo in my TBN post you can zoom up to see the coupling in the bottom.
The actual part numbers for the seals and bearings may be different for your L3600. For my L48 the rubber seals were just 0.010" snugger plain rubber bushings (no lips).
Bests luck reassembling your rig - take care, Dick B.
When I had my L48 apart for HST repair, I replaced the clutch because the tractor was split already and it was relatively easy to do. A few pages into my HST job, in Post #50 there are pictures and WSM drawings that show the shaft seal job. I didn't do a video of the seal replacement, but the description has been useful to several people here and on OTT who have put the "new" seals in their rigs.
People sometimes say its important not to pull the shaft out to work on the seals. The shaft is quite long - going back through HST and gear housings to the front end of the differential housing. There is a sliding coupling at the rear end of the shaft that can come out of position, making it hard to get the shaft back in. It usually stays put but, if it gets loose, unbolting the next housing isn't much work to put it back in place - especially with the tractor already split. There's a photo in my TBN post you can zoom up to see the coupling in the bottom.
The actual part numbers for the seals and bearings may be different for your L3600. For my L48 the rubber seals were just 0.010" snugger plain rubber bushings (no lips).
Bests luck reassembling your rig - take care, Dick B.