Prestone Coolant Flush &Antifreeze? - L3130

[LarryBud]

I've read my manual and I'm still unclear. This should be the stuff. Correct?

My manual also suggest a cleaning. I know it's over due. Prestone flusher as well? Any watch outs if I follow the manual? Thanks.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I've read my manual and I'm still unclear. This should be the stuff. Correct?

My manual also suggest a cleaning. I know it's over due. Prestone flusher as well? Any watch outs if I follow the manual? Thanks.



View attachment 83867 View attachment 83866

That's what I used on mine last year, cleaner and coolant. So far, so good.

That's what I interpreted my manual to be saying, "fresh clean water with antifreeze". LOL

Our Ford 3930 (1993ish) says to use an additive to avoid cavitation damage to the cylinders. I think cavitation is a bigger problem with direct injection, so Kubota doesn't see the need since their engines are mostly IDI.

Coolant has changed a lot over the last 20 years or so, complicating the issue. Fleetguard has a whole line of diesel coolants, additives, and test strips for diesel engines. I may look into it sometime, especially for the Ford, since the additive depletes and I'm not sure when and how much to add.

Sorry to side-track your thread, but I'm sure it's bound to happen. We need some good 'best oil' banter on coolant.

 

[19thSF]

I've read my manual and I'm still unclear. This should be the stuff. Correct?

My manual also suggest a cleaning. I know it's over due. Prestone flusher as well? Any watch outs if I follow the manual? Thanks.


Hello LaryBud,
When I last looked into it, Kubota anti-freeze was actually "CCI" anti-freeze. I took a quick look at the specs and it looks like the Prestone will do the job, but satisfy yourself, and take some time to look over the MDS sheet on the product, and make up your own mind. It is interesting to note that the MDS sheet describes the product as being clear with a coloring agent added. So much for selecting anti-freeze by color!

Good luck to you!

 

[TheOldHokie]

That's what I used on mine last year, cleaner and coolant. So far, so good.

That's what I interpreted my manual to be saying, "fresh clean water with antifreeze". LOL

Our Ford 3930 (1993ish) says to use an additive to avoid cavitation damage to the cylinders. I think cavitation is a bigger problem with direct injection, so Kubota doesn't see the need since their engines are mostly IDI.

Coolant has changed a lot over the last 20 years or so, complicating the issue. Fleetguard has a whole line of diesel coolants, additives, and test strips for diesel engines. I may look into it sometime, especially for the Ford, since the additive depletes and I'm not sure when and how much to add.

Sorry to side-track your thread, but I'm sure it's bound to happen. We need some good 'best oil' banter on coolant.

Cavitation is only an issue with wet liner diesel engines.

Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Cavitation is only an issue with wet liner diesel engines.

Dan

Ive read that other places, but the 3930 has dry liners. Maybe a Ford/New Holland standard, since their big tractors run wet liners? I don't see why wet/dry would matter.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ive read that other places, but the 3930 has dry liners. Maybe a Ford/New Holland standard, since their big tractors run wet liners? I don't see why wet/dry would matter.

It matters because cavitation occurs on the coolant side of the liners where cimbustion temps are high and it erodes them. That is not an issue with cast blocks/dry liners.

Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

It matters because cavitation occurs on the coolant side of the liners where cimbustion temps are high and it erodes them. That is not an issue with cast blocks/dry liners.

Dan

Seems like the coolant side of a cast iron parent bore cylinder would see the same conditions as the coolant side of an iron wet liner to me.

 

[TheOldHokie]

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Seems like the coolant side of a cast iron parent bore cylinder would see the same conditions as the coolant side of an iron wet liner to me.

I am not an expert on the matter and all I can tell you is what I have read about the phenomenon. The physics of wet liners is different. This is one of many articles on why the problem is only an issue with wet liners. You can easily find many more.

Dan

This is the first of several informational pieces on diesel engine coolant system reliability. Cavitation in the coolant fluid on the outside of wet sleeve liners is caused by vibration of the cylinder wall while the piston is in motion.

A more detailed explanation:

Pitting of wet cylinder liners is a continual threat in many diesel engines. The process by which liners can be pitted (and eventually perforated) is often called “cavitation,” but the process is better described, says Shell’s Stede Granger, as “cavitation/erosion/corrosion.”

As a diesel operates, says John Deere’s Mark Peckenschneider, it can set up harmonic vibration in the liners, which can be amplified by loose-fitting liners. During vibration, the liner pulls away from the adjacent coolant, subjecting coolant to a lower pressure, says Granger, thus lowering its boiling point and the vapor bubbles implode and return to a liquid, releasing the latent heat of vaporization and resulting in a sudden micro-jet of liquid, which impinges on the liner wall. Think of it as a pressure-washer jet, says Granger.

 

[LarryBud]

I used the Prestone products and called it good.

I read the labels vs the Kubota brand and they appears to be very close. Exact details are proprietary but they will be within a percent or two.

 

[lugbolt]

the cleaning park can be done easier and cheaper

get you some cascade for automatic dishwashers. Remove all coolant, add cascade and water.

So long as your current coolant isn't rusty, it'll do just fine to get everything out.

Brother is a tech at a local big truck repair place and that's what they have been using for a long long time, and it works. Again as long as the coolant isn't rusty.

If it's rusty, that's rust from the engine block and head meaning that the coolant is worn completely out, has gotten acidic, and is eating away at the block/head. When this happens it also makes a little bit of electricity (measurable via digital volt-ohm meter), and that is also what normally helps the hoses to get very soft and eventually fail. Once it gets rusty you have to use a dedicated flushing agent and it will take a while to get the rust cleaned up. Also on some engines (RTV900 comes to mind...) once it's rusty, it oftentimes also plugs the steam passages in the deck surface of the block, and then it overheats, head gasket starts leaking and/or cracks the head. People blame the head gasket but fail to address cleaning of the steam holes--they gotta be clean.