I am in the process of painting a couple of rough implements and have a question about paint. I sanded and primed with rustoleum rusty metal primer and am going to topcoat them with rustoleum professional . I am considering adding a catalyst/hardener to the rustoleum topcoat but I want to make sure adding the catalyst isn't going to give me a compatibility problem. I read that catalyst paints might not adhere well to certain primers. Anyone have experience with this and/or know if there would be an issue?
painting implements
- Thread starter TxRzrBk
- Start date
"usually" useing the same name (rustoleum) primer and then rustoleum paint will work but,,, you can't put a lackuer based paint on an enamal, it will bubble. If you're getting the paint from a paint store, they can guide you.
I just used the Kubota "touch up" spray paint the local dealer had on a tool box. Beautiful enamel finish, very high quality and the best spray paint I've ever used. Very hard and sturdy once good and dry it seems. RWR
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Speaking of paint,, has anyone found a brand and color to match the grey frame color of the newer tractors. My Kubota dealer doesn't have any and nothing I've tried is close.
This was to paint a couple of implements so I didn't think buying Kubota paint or even tractor supply paint was worthwhile. I did quite a bit of reading and definitely am pleased that I did. Cheap rustoleum paint @ $8/quart or $25/gallon combined with hardener/catalyst creates an extremely tough paint roughly equivalent to two part automotive paints that are 4x the cost . There are a couple of gotchas that can cause problems but following a few basic guidelines yields and awesome result. The only drawback is that adding the hardener to the paint makes it extremely toxic before it cures, you absolutely must have a respirator to spray it. If you are considering this approach feel free to PM me and I will help you out in any way I can. Below are the few guidelines that I used.
1) Pick your reducer based on the temperature - if it is below about 65 you want a fast reducer like acetone, for hotter weather (above 85) you want a slow reducer like mineral spirits
2) Many people have trouble with rustomleum and other similar oil based enamel paints not curing fully or taking weeks to cure. Choosing the correct reducer is part of the equation but the other part is the thickness of the coats. Start with a light coat, once it becomes tacky apply a second light coat followed by one final medium coat. This can be adjusted adding more coats but the key is to keep the coats light and never apply a subsequent coat until the previous coat is tacky. ALL COATS MUST BE APPLIED WITHIN A 1 HOUR WINDOW OR AFTER 48 HOURS.
3) For mix ratio (Paint, Reducer, Hardener) the guideline I started with is 16:8:1, 16 ounces paint, 8 ounces reducer, 1 ounce hardener. The amount of reducer can be less based on the type of spray gun, tip size and your own judgement about the viscosity of the paint and how well it is spraying. I ended up using about 6.5 ounces of reducer to 16 ounces of paint. Mixing cups are less than $1 so get a couple and make sure you accurately measure your ratios. After mixing the paint give it 15-30 minutes to "activate" before you start spraying
I have done a fair amount of painting and this is by far the toughest finish I have applied, I would go so far to say that it is nearly as tough as a powder coat.
1) Pick your reducer based on the temperature - if it is below about 65 you want a fast reducer like acetone, for hotter weather (above 85) you want a slow reducer like mineral spirits
2) Many people have trouble with rustomleum and other similar oil based enamel paints not curing fully or taking weeks to cure. Choosing the correct reducer is part of the equation but the other part is the thickness of the coats. Start with a light coat, once it becomes tacky apply a second light coat followed by one final medium coat. This can be adjusted adding more coats but the key is to keep the coats light and never apply a subsequent coat until the previous coat is tacky. ALL COATS MUST BE APPLIED WITHIN A 1 HOUR WINDOW OR AFTER 48 HOURS.
3) For mix ratio (Paint, Reducer, Hardener) the guideline I started with is 16:8:1, 16 ounces paint, 8 ounces reducer, 1 ounce hardener. The amount of reducer can be less based on the type of spray gun, tip size and your own judgement about the viscosity of the paint and how well it is spraying. I ended up using about 6.5 ounces of reducer to 16 ounces of paint. Mixing cups are less than $1 so get a couple and make sure you accurately measure your ratios. After mixing the paint give it 15-30 minutes to "activate" before you start spraying
I have done a fair amount of painting and this is by far the toughest finish I have applied, I would go so far to say that it is nearly as tough as a powder coat.
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