OPC Panel fuse

[WRC]

Anyone suggest why I keep blowing the 5 amp fuse for the OPC panel on my kubota B2650
Seems to mainly do it when the tractor needs to find that extra power. Ie scooping a bucket of pit run. I can go a day with out blowing one then 5 in an hour.

 

[PHPaul]

#1 suspect for that scenario is the neutral safety switch on the hydro pedal. It shorts to ground and takes out the fuse. It starts with one small bad spot when the pedal is in JUST the right position and gets steadily worse until you can't touch the pedal at all without blowing the fuse.

 

[WRC]

#1 suspect for that scenario is the neutral safety switch on the hydro pedal. It shorts to ground and takes out the fuse. It starts with one small bad spot when the pedal is in JUST the right position and gets steadily worse until you can't touch the pedal at all without blowing the fuse.

Thank you for the information. Do I require a new switch to fix the problem or try and figure out why it grounds out?

 

[PHPaul]

Replace it, not repairable. My dealer keeps of box of them under the counter, it's a common failure.

It's also about $50, which sucks.

 

[WRC]

#1 suspect for that scenario is the neutral safety switch on the hydro pedal. It shorts to ground and takes out the fuse. It starts with one small bad spot when the pedal is in JUST the right position and gets steadily worse until you can't touch the pedal at all without blowing the fuse.

Thanks for the info. Is the neutral safety the button/ plunger that is pressed in when the pedal is put in reverse?

 

[whitetiger]

Thanks for the info. Is the neutral safety the button/ plunger that is pressed in when the pedal is put in reverse?

Yes, but it is pressed in when in neutral and moves out when the hydro pedal is moved either Forward or Reverse.
The switch shorting and failing the OPC fuse is not uncommon.

 

[Henro]

Yes, but it is pressed in when in neutral and moves out when the hydro pedal is moved either Forward or Reverse.
The switch shorting and failing the OPC fuse is not uncommon.

If the switch costs 50 bucks, I would want to be sure it was the problem before buying a replacement I did not need.

I think I would try to eliminate the switch to make sure something else was not the problem before I spent that fifty bucks.

Do not know the tractor wiring, or if the switch has two contacts that would make eliminating it more of a challenge for someone not well versed in electrical control.

I guess I am just cheap, but I hate to spend fifty bucks on something that I end up not needing!

Edit: Except for a great dinner at a nice restaurant, for calories that I certainly do not need!

 

[PHPaul]

You can disconnect the connector on the switch and jumper it. If the problem goes away, the switch is the culprit.

After replacing mine twice, I flipped OSHA the bird and built a permanent jumper for it.