Hello Forum, obligatory first post. I inherited a BX2360 with no temp or fuel gauge reading. The temperature gauge sits in the op-temp position between hot and cold, and the fuel level sits above full. I checked the wire that connects to the temp sender with a test light and saw signs of low voltage with the key on ignition off. none of the wires move at all when the key is switched on or off. I've heard of issues with the fuel level arm rusting, however, I'm not sure if that is the case since the fuel filter has no debris. All fuses test great. any advice on how to diag/fix?
no temp or fuel gauge
- Thread starter avg2360owner
- Start date
Temp sender is powered by the key switched “on”…and looking for a “ground” thru the sending unit…which varies resistance (ohms) with temperature-rise. Disconnect the sensor and ground that wire…(Momentary ONLY)… and the gauge should rapidly rush to ”HOT”… proving the gauge and wire is fine…and you have bad sending-unit (which technically is actually a ”receiving” unit.) 
Fuel gauge: Same test..except the “sending unit” (actually a receiving unit) is powered from the switch and the sending unit (connected to either a float-lever like a toilet valve… OR… has coils submerged into the fuel that senses fuel-level by relative capacitance)…. the unit provides a pathway to ground. Remove the wire from the “sending” unit…and ground it…. and the gauge should move toward “Full”. Again…only momentary…if you keep those gauges grounded….the heating element inside the gauge that heats the bi-metallic element which moves the needle….may overheat and burn out.
OK…so the fuel gauge sits above “full”…indicates a shorted/grounded wire to the sending unit….OR…a failed gauge. Does the gauge show anything else after the key has been “off” for a few hours?
What do you mean re: temp ga. …. about the “op-temp” position?
Fuel gauge: Same test..except the “sending unit” (actually a receiving unit) is powered from the switch and the sending unit (connected to either a float-lever like a toilet valve… OR… has coils submerged into the fuel that senses fuel-level by relative capacitance)…. the unit provides a pathway to ground. Remove the wire from the “sending” unit…and ground it…. and the gauge should move toward “Full”. Again…only momentary…if you keep those gauges grounded….the heating element inside the gauge that heats the bi-metallic element which moves the needle….may overheat and burn out.
OK…so the fuel gauge sits above “full”…indicates a shorted/grounded wire to the sending unit….OR…a failed gauge. Does the gauge show anything else after the key has been “off” for a few hours?
What do you mean re: temp ga. …. about the “op-temp” position?
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