No start on my bx22

[vpl1116]

It slowly started to loose power . White smoke and shittering then shut off
Would start the nest day just fine and run for a few minutes. Seemed to be a fuel issue. So replaced the 2 filters. Replaced the fuel cut off solenoid. Replaced the 3 injectors and the injector pump. With the fule line off it will shoot fuel strong. With injector lines off and cranking. It gets intermittent action from the injector pump. Seem to run if you hold the key on while cranking but cuts off immediately when you release ? Now what ??

 

[Henro]

Sounds like you are not getting voltage to the hold coil on the fuel cut off solenoid. The solenoid has two windings, a start winding and a hold (run) winding. If the run winding is not receiving voltage, then the engine will start, but stop running as soon as you release the key from the start position.

You already replaced the fuel cut off solenoid so it must be voltage to the run coil. The run coil receives voltage as soon as you turn the key away from the off position. That coil is not strong enough to move the solenoid, but it is strong enough to hold the solenoid once it’s moved into the run position by the run coil.

A quick check is to remove the fuel cutoff solenoid and see if the engine engine starts and runs. If you do this, you will have to hold the fuel shut off solenoid back in place, or cut off the fuel supply, in order to stop the engine.

This assumes that you don’t have one of the very last BX 22/2200 units produced. The last units reportedly incorporate the electrical control of the next model in the series, which I believe is different electrically.

 

[vpl1116]

Sounds like you are not getting voltage to the hold coil on the fuel cut off solenoid. The solenoid has two windings, a start winding and a hold (run) winding. If the run winding is not receiving voltage, then the engine will start, but stop running as soon as you release the key from the start position.

You already replaced the fuel cut off solenoid so it must be voltage to the run coil. The run coil receives voltage as soon as you turn the key away from the off position. That coil is not strong enough to move the solenoid, but it is strong enough to hold the solenoid once it’s moved into the run position by the run coil.

A quick check is to remove the fuel cutoff solenoid and see if the engine engine starts and runs. If you do this, you will have to hold the fuel shut off solenoid back in place, or cut off the fuel supply, in order to stop the engine.

This assumes that you don’t have one of the very last BX 22/2200 units produced. The last units reportedly incorporate the electrical control of the next model in the series, which I believe is different electrically.

Just tested through things. The cutoff is working. Does not start with it out. However I did a quick test of the power lead to the glow plug rail and I am not getting power to that rail. It cranks and the indicator lights up while cranking but no voltage to main black wire with red stripe that goes to the center glow plug ! Is there a module or maybe the ignition switch itself ??

 

[vpl1116]

Well. After taking a break from frustration. I confirmed that I am getting power to the glow plugs. The fuel pump is flowing just fine. The shutoff solenoid is working fine
I'm leaving put while I diagnose things. The old Injector pump and new Injector pump are both acting the same. Now spurting fuel. I am now thinking something internal that activates the injector pump may be the issue. The cam lobes are fine and turning as they should BUT as you slide the injector pump back in. The little lever on the front sits in a little groove and on the opposite end is a spring. It does all seen to be a little loose and flimsy. Maybe those internals are the issue ? Thoughts ??

 

[Henro]

I’m not familiar with the specifics of removal and replacement of injector pumps, but I’ve read that you have to be very careful when you loosen something connected to the injector pump. Otherwise you can mess up the timing. I believe this is the ends of the tubing from the injectors, where they connect to the injector pump. I absolutely don’t know the details.

Another thing is there would be a shim between the injector pump and the engine block, which also affects the timing. If you change injector pump you have to move the shim from the original pump to the new pump. If you somehow lost the shim, then when you put either pump on the block it probably will not work properly.

Just a couple thoughts. Don’t act on either of them until you hear from somebody that has expertise. Except maybe the shim; that should be a no-brainer to swap between pumps.

 

[vpl1116]

I’m not familiar with the specifics of removal and replacement of injector pumps, but I’ve read that you have to be very careful when you loosen something connected to the injector pump. Otherwise you can mess up the timing. I believe this is the ends of the tubing from the injectors, where they connect to the injector pump. I absolutely don’t know the details.

Another thing is there would be a shim between the injector pump and the engine block, which also affects the timing. If you change injector pump you have to move the shim from the original pump to the new pump. If you somehow lost the shim, then when you put either pump on the block it probably will not work properly.

Just a couple thoughts. Don’t act on either of them until you hear from somebody that has expertise. Except maybe the shim; that should be a no-brainer to swap between pumps.

I did swap the shim. Which is basically a paper this metal gasket of sorts. Seems to be an issue where it spurts fuel for a little bit and then stops. After a little youtubing. I did see a video showing 2 springs inside under where the injector pump goes. Maybe a spring went bad or broke that returns the slide on the injector pump to allow fuel though it..have to do more tinkering

 

[Henro]

I did swap the shim. Which is basically a paper this metal gasket of sorts. Seems to be an issue where it spurts fuel for a little bit and then stops. After a little youtubing. I did see a video showing 2 springs inside under where the injector pump goes. Maybe a spring went bad or broke that returns the slide on the injector pump to allow fuel though it..have to do more tinkering

The only thing I can think to ask, which may be asked by somebody that knows something, is when you removed and replaced the injector feed lines at the pump, did you hold the base with a wrench so that it did not rotate when the nut holding the injector feed tube was loosened? I think this is a critical thing to do. BUT I am relying on memory...and I don't bet much on my memory these days...

 

[vpl1116]

The only thing I can think to ask, which may be asked by somebody that knows something, is when you removed and replaced the injector feed lines at the pump, did you hold the base with a wrench so that it did not rotate when the nut holding the injector feed tube was loosened? I think this is a critical thing to do. BUT I am relying on memory...and I don't bet much on my memory these days...

Yep. Held the base. Injector timing was not messed with.
Maybe tomorrow I will dive in and remove the side plate where the throttle linkage attaches and look inside to see if those springs in there are broke of worn
There are 2 s.all springs a d I believe one of them has something to do with returning the slide on the side of injector pump to the open position..