M7040 valve adjustment
- Thread starter tom-ky
- Start date
I did a search on Bing of the Kubota engine model number (ex. Kubota D640 Engine Specifications) and found a bunch of websites with all kinds of engine specifications including the cold Valve Clearence. I printed out a page of engine specs from www.tractorsmart.com.
For more detailed info Id probably order a genuine Kubota service manual.
For more detailed info Id probably order a genuine Kubota service manual.
fast*st
Member
Equipment
M7040, L2900, F550 ford, Yanmar vio70 excavator, Case 580, JD 350 dozer, JD 644E
Yeah older thread but hay, its on the level with my issue.
M7040 valve clearance, intake and exhaust are the same, cold
.0051 to .0067 inches
.13 to .17 mm
remove fuel injection pipes and glow plug harness, will remove loader and hood for easy access, looks like the hood is on a pull away bracket of some sort.
My local dealer when asked replies 'why would you ever want to touch that' my response was 'its in the book for every 800 and we're at 1600. It was in their shop sompelace around the 800 mark for service and they didn't do it. All the paint is intact on the injector lines and its not listed on the slip as having been done.
Hopefully this will help the smoking issue.
M7040 valve clearance, intake and exhaust are the same, cold
.0051 to .0067 inches
.13 to .17 mm
remove fuel injection pipes and glow plug harness, will remove loader and hood for easy access, looks like the hood is on a pull away bracket of some sort.
My local dealer when asked replies 'why would you ever want to touch that' my response was 'its in the book for every 800 and we're at 1600. It was in their shop sompelace around the 800 mark for service and they didn't do it. All the paint is intact on the injector lines and its not listed on the slip as having been done.
Hopefully this will help the smoking issue.
Isn't amazing how quickly dealers will charge you up to $100/hr for their "knowledge", yet they don't know? Spend the money on a service manual and a set of tools and get it done RIGHT.
fast*st
Member
Equipment
M7040, L2900, F550 ford, Yanmar vio70 excavator, Case 580, JD 350 dozer, JD 644E
Kubota M7040 was running a little rough at idle and smoking a bit more than usual, 1600 hours and the valve lash was more than a bit excessive. Valve cover spec and dealer spec was .015mm. Front two cyls were just a little loose, maybe 018 or so, but the rears were super sloppy, 025 or better. The 7040 needs a bit of digging, remove power steering gear, air intake tube, cover intake with coffee cup 
remove muffler, and big bracket over the valve cover, clean everything again then remove glow plugs, injector lines and valve cover.
Side note: valve lash spec and some other details are printed on the valve cover sticker, you can't see it till you dig in some.
I'm not sure that a dealer would worry about paint brush and compressed air cleaning to make certain no dirt migrates into the engine but I worry about it. Only takes a few extra minutes to have a spotless engine before opening it up.
Going slow and pausing to tackle some other projects in the shop that wandered in and give some volunteers a few tasks to handle as well as explain why the tractor was all torn open it took three hours to adjust the valves and another hour to modify the seat adjuster linkage so it actually works.
Results,
Black smoke is down to just a whisper versus halfway to locomotive and the exhaust stack used to shake terribly at idle and now it is pretty still at warmed up idle. Hard to say on power but it does feel good, it always felt good but when say ditching with the grader blade, it'd pour black smoke, but no more.
I am amazed at the dealership, I'd be pulling folks in left and right for stuff like this, is a pretty simple job overall and a junior person could do the teardown and just have a tech spend 30 mins on the adjustment. Also amazed at how light the valve springs are but I'm much more used to dealing with high revving engines who worry about valve float.
remove muffler, and big bracket over the valve cover, clean everything again then remove glow plugs, injector lines and valve cover. Side note: valve lash spec and some other details are printed on the valve cover sticker, you can't see it till you dig in some.
I'm not sure that a dealer would worry about paint brush and compressed air cleaning to make certain no dirt migrates into the engine but I worry about it. Only takes a few extra minutes to have a spotless engine before opening it up.
Going slow and pausing to tackle some other projects in the shop that wandered in and give some volunteers a few tasks to handle as well as explain why the tractor was all torn open it took three hours to adjust the valves and another hour to modify the seat adjuster linkage so it actually works.
Results,
Black smoke is down to just a whisper versus halfway to locomotive and the exhaust stack used to shake terribly at idle and now it is pretty still at warmed up idle. Hard to say on power but it does feel good, it always felt good but when say ditching with the grader blade, it'd pour black smoke, but no more.
I am amazed at the dealership, I'd be pulling folks in left and right for stuff like this, is a pretty simple job overall and a junior person could do the teardown and just have a tech spend 30 mins on the adjustment. Also amazed at how light the valve springs are but I'm much more used to dealing with high revving engines who worry about valve float.
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