Led Lighting

BX25DMan

BX25DMan

Member

Equipment
Kubota BX25D
Sep 16, 2013
111
2
18
Southeast MA
I've got to add some lighting to mine as well. I keep a watchful eye on all you guys for tips and ideas!

Nice Work!
 
R

RickOShay

New member

Equipment
Kubota G1800,BX2370RV,RTV1100
Apr 8, 2014
6
0
0
Buffalo Gap, TX
dwk121 said:
Led weatherproof push button switches.
Click to expand...
Hello,

I'm glad to see your application for switches to dash panel. I have some of the exact same switches that I bought on ebay, but even with the connector tab illustration I can't figure out the proper connection configuration for the five tabs. It appears that (2) 12v inputs are required, (1) for the LED & (1) for the load pass thru. Would you mind sharing how you made this work ? I want the LED to light when the button is pushed in. Also, in my instance I'm wanting to send 12v current to a relay to power the third function solenoid valve that operates my grapple. Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.
Rick
 
Kennyd4110

Kennyd4110

Well-known member
Vendor Member
Sep 7, 2013
1,171
336
83
Westminster, MD
www.boltonhooks.com
RickOShay said:
Hello,

I'm glad to see your application for switches to dash panel. I have some of the exact same switches that I bought on ebay, but even with the connector tab illustration I can't figure out the proper connection configuration for the five tabs. It appears that (2) 12v inputs are required, (1) for the LED & (1) for the load pass thru. Would you mind sharing how you made this work ? I want the LED to light when the button is pushed in. Also, in my instance I'm wanting to send 12v current to a relay to power the third function solenoid valve that operates my grapple. Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.
Rick
Click to expand...
Rick, you only need to use four of the five terminals:

- Goes to ground (this is only for the LED so it can be a small wire.

NO (normally open) Goes to your "load" or lights/relay/whatever, as does the + contact. I blew up a picture from my install, you can see the yellow jumper that loops between the two.

C1 (common) goes to the battery +12v

The NC (normally closes) terminal is NOT used and can be cut flush to get it out of the way.

Theory:
When you turn the switch on, +12v flows from the C1 terminal to the NO terminal to energize your work lights/relay/whatever, power also flows through the small jumper to the + terminal to light the LED in the switch.

Since the terminals are so small, these re a PITA to wire so take your time.

Clear as mud? :)




Edit:
FYI: When I first installed my diverter for my snowplow and grapple, I did much the same, but quickly found out that it was not user-friendly to operate with a ON/OFF type switch on the dash, I soon added a momentary switch to the joystick and life was good after that.
Also you wrote "third function valve", that normally is wired with a completely different style on switch since its rarely left ON constantly. They are operated with a (ON)-OFF-(ON) three position DPDT switch where the two ON positions are momentary (open and close the grapple).

Might want to start a new thread so as not to derail this one, since I think your situation is completely different.
 

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Last edited:
R

RickOShay

New member

Equipment
Kubota G1800,BX2370RV,RTV1100
Apr 8, 2014
6
0
0
Buffalo Gap, TX
Kennyd4110 said:
Rick, you only need to use four of the five terminals:

- Goes to ground (this is only for the LED so it can be a small wire.

NO (normally open) Goes to your "load" or lights/relay/whatever, as does the + contact. I blew up a picture from my install, you can see the yellow jumper that loops between the two.

C1 (common) goes to the battery +12v

The NC (normally closes) terminal is NOT used and can be cut flush to get it out of the way.

Theory:
When you turn the switch on, +12v flows from the C1 terminal to the NO terminal to energize your work lights/relay/whatever, power also flows through the small jumper to the + terminal to light the LED in the switch.

Since the terminals are so small, these re a PITA to wire so take your time.

Clear as mud? :)




Edit:
FYI: When I first installed my diverter for my snowplow and grapple, I did much the same, but quickly found out that it was not user-friendly to operate with a ON/OFF type switch on the dash, I soon added a momentary switch to the joystick and life was good after that.
Also you wrote "third function valve", that normally is wired with a completely different style on switch since its rarely left ON constantly. They are operated with a (ON)-OFF-(ON) three position DPDT switch where the two ON positions are momentary (open and close the grapple).

Might want to start a new thread so as not to derail this one, since I think your situation is completely different.
Click to expand...
Many, many thanks for the quick replies...! I'm sure I can make this work from your photo & terminal description.

I didn't make myself clear about operating my grapple, sorry about that.

My third function set up came from Land Pride along with their 48" grapple. This includes a replacement joy stick knob with two momentary button switches to open & close the grapple. When I quick attach back to my bucket, constant power to the solenoid from the battery became a non issue. Now I have purchased a "Limbinator" hydraulic 20" bar chain saw on an 8' square tubing pole that quick attaches to a receiver mounted on my bucket. I will be using the third function hydraulics to operate the saw both forward & reverse with the knob buttons on the joy stick. My concern was accidental unwanted activation of power to the saw. Thus I started searching for a quality on/off switch to interupt power to the solenoid valve. The valve is self grounding, so the installation instructions dictated a direct connection to the battery with an inline fuse.

Now, here I am, lost as a goose in a snow storm....!

Rick
 
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