Happy easter everyone. I've done everything we can think of here to get the old girl starting properly. I've got an L2850 that had bad fuel seepage from under the bonnets on the delivery valve holders on the injector pump. We've replaced those and the fuel seepage has stopped. However, now it won't start with the key. We've bled the fuel lines per the WSM, replaced the fuel filter (including the o-ring it seats into and the spring that it sit on in the fuel filter cup). We can pull start it easily and once it was running we opened the air cock to bleed the system per the WSM. When it's running it runs fine and will rev up well. Although we haven't done a compression test yet, it all seems smooth and doesn't act any different than it did before. Worth noting that it sat for a few months over the winter waiting for me to find time to replace the old leaking o-rings.
I know that getting into the injector system is always a risk but I'm fairly confident that we assembled everything just as it had been. I suppose it's remotely possible that one of the spring seats or the springs could have been turned upside down from their original orientation but I wouldn't think that would actually make much difference. We used a dab of grease to hold the spring seat and the spring together while we were reinstalling them and then screwing the delivery valve holder back on. Would the torque/tightness of the bonnets or the delivery valve holders make this kind of difference assuming that they are tight enough to prevent air re-entering the system?
Any thoughts from the group here might save me from my next step which is to take the old girl to the dealer.
Thanks for your opinions here.
I know that getting into the injector system is always a risk but I'm fairly confident that we assembled everything just as it had been. I suppose it's remotely possible that one of the spring seats or the springs could have been turned upside down from their original orientation but I wouldn't think that would actually make much difference. We used a dab of grease to hold the spring seat and the spring together while we were reinstalling them and then screwing the delivery valve holder back on. Would the torque/tightness of the bonnets or the delivery valve holders make this kind of difference assuming that they are tight enough to prevent air re-entering the system?
Any thoughts from the group here might save me from my next step which is to take the old girl to the dealer.
Thanks for your opinions here.