L185 / L1501 coolant gushing out from overflow

[Anton Dorrestijn]

Hello,

I have a strange problem; when I work with my Kubota and put the RPM above 2000, coolant is gushing out of the overflow tube (with the whistle at the end). When I put the RPM down to less than 2000, the leakage stops. I also noticed that the tractor is overheating much earlier than it did in the past. I also have two other clues: when changing the fluids a month ago, I noticed that the drained coolant contained oil. Not much, not black sludge, but when you put it on your finger it feels “oily”. Also, when I run the tractor and remove the dipstick, it will spitting oil from the hole, but I’m not shure that this relates to the problem at hand (It has always spit oil from the hole)

Does anyone has some tips on how to analyze the problem?

Kind Regards,
Anton Dorrestijn

 

[SidecarFlip]

Easy analyses. Blown head gasket, cracked head and possibly a cracked block depending on how long it's been in that condition.

Time to take it apart and have a look-see at the carnage.

 

[Anton Dorrestijn]

Time to take it apart and have a look-see at the carnage.

I was afraid of that.... time to bring it to a mechanic

Thanks for the analysis!

 

[Dave_eng]

I was afraid of that.... time to bring it to a mechanic

Thanks for the analysis!

Look for a recent post by TORCH.

My recollection is that he had used a miracle mechanic in a can with great success dealing with your type of problem.

To work the coolant traces needed to be completely cleaned out.

Torch said:

CRC's "Block Seal" is the only product that I am aware of that might work here.

Also:

I'd change the head gasket. If the head is cracked, and if a replacement is not available, then before I gave up and scrapped the motor I'd try CRC brand "Block Seal". Use is more involved than most leak sealants that are just added to the coolant, but it's also more likely to work -- if you follow the directions properly.

You have to flush the coolant out with plain water thoroughly; it won't bond to the metal in the presence of coolant. (After it's set then you drain the system and can fill with coolant.) An old mechanic put me onto this stuff years ago and I've used it quite successfully twice now

Dave

 

[Russell King]

There are a few things to look at.

First how full is the radiator when the fluid is spitting out the whistle? If the radiator is full to the top of the neck, it will eject quite a bit of fluid to get to the level it likes. That level on my tractor is about when the upper tank is about half full. If I leave mine at that level it does not lose more fluid.

Second when the tractor is cold, with the radiator full to the neck, cap off the radiator, start tractor and look into the radiator neck to see if you see bubbles coming out of the radiator hose into the radiator. If there are constant bubbles that indicates that there is trouble with the head gasket or head is cracked.

Third have you cleaned the fins on the radiator really, really well and the screen in front of the radiator? Especially down low behind the battery area. Do you have any filter in front of the radiator to help keep it clean and is it clogged?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Anton Dorrestijn]

Second when the tractor is cold, with the radiator full to the neck, cap off the radiator, start tractor and look into the radiator neck to see if you see bubbles coming out of the radiator hose into the radiator. If there are constant bubbles that indicates that there is trouble with the head gasket or head is cracked.

I did test this today and NO bubbles

The radiator is also clean (did that when changing all the fluids)

So, it might be that I overfilled radiator... It's now about one inch under the radiator top, and about the same as the movies Vic shot. The weird part is that after all the spilling the level is about the same.

Maybe the radiator cap is leaky? Is it possible that the heated cooling system draws air which causes coolant to boil and gush out of the overflow, resulting in air pockets in the system so it wonÂ’t show a lower level?

Thanks for helping with the problem!

 

[beex]

Old caps will do this too, the relief spring in the cap gets week and releases at too low of a pressure/temperature


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[SidecarFlip]

Interestingly, the main cause of head failure and overheating in the Navistar 7.3 diesel engine that Ford used, was the expansion tank pressure cap. A weakend relief spring in the cap, lowers the boiling point of the coolant to a point where it 'gushes out' and creates air pockets in the block and eventually causes failure. A 5 dollar part causes a thousand dollar plus failure.

 

[Russell King]

Yes replace the radiator cap with a new one from the Kubota dealer so you know it is the correct one with the correct pressure rating.

Good news about the lack of bubbles but please search through the forum about cracked heads and bad head gasket for further testing. There is a way to pressure test the radiator but it can force fluid into the cylinders which will severely damage the engine if you spin it with the starter or if it starts.

The overheating on these thermosiphon systems does crack heads so don’t let it overheat at all if you can help it. Try to get it to run without sounding the whistle. I can use a shredder/slasher/mower for hours in 105F (40C) for hours without overheating. Explain more about your tractor and it’s getting hot. I assume the Netherlands is cooler than Texas so you should not be having trouble with overheating.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk