ok so to make a relatively long story short. i had a large garden tractor, a bolens ht20. that had a bad engine. i bought an engine out of a kubota l175, which mind you i love the kubota engine. and im thinking about servicing the glow plugs or atleast, checking them. first, how would i go about identifying the engine. on the dipstick it say z750 then a ton of letters. then second, any tips on removing and checking glow plugs? i usually run them for 30 seconds before starting the engine, i heard running them too long can make them mushroom, is 30 seconds too long? sorry for the long winded post. and im assuming you'll want pictures of the tractor. they'll come in the morning.
l175? glow plug removal
- Thread starter jdecker94
- Start date
Yes Z750 is your engine designation.
Nahh the glow plugs come out like kittens. Undo the thumb nuts and remove the leads and all the little washers and lock washers. Get the appropriate wrench on it (17 I think?) and a few taps with a rubber mallet is all they need. Try removing the injectors and you'll appreciated how easy the glow plugs come out.
No 30 seconds isn't too long. 30 is about right in cold weather, you've got to let the chamber warm up a bit. Plugs are cheap, I wouldn't worry too much about burning them.
Yes I want to see pictures of this setup. That stinking motor must out weigh the rest of the tractor.
How did you bridge the engine and transmission?
Nahh the glow plugs come out like kittens. Undo the thumb nuts and remove the leads and all the little washers and lock washers. Get the appropriate wrench on it (17 I think?) and a few taps with a rubber mallet is all they need. Try removing the injectors and you'll appreciated how easy the glow plugs come out.
No 30 seconds isn't too long. 30 is about right in cold weather, you've got to let the chamber warm up a bit. Plugs are cheap, I wouldn't worry too much about burning them.
Yes I want to see pictures of this setup. That stinking motor must out weigh the rest of the tractor.
How did you bridge the engine and transmission?Hi You do not have to remove the glowplugs to check if they are working. I use a cheap multimeter that also can measure temperature. Just heat up the glowplugs for 20-30 seconds then use the temp. probe on the multimeter and put it on the cylinder head close to where the glowplug goes in. You should be able to measure a temp. increase of 5-10 degrees close to every glowplug. A lot easier than removing the plugs just for testing.
God jul
God jul
ok it doesnt sound as bad as i thought. some people make it sound like you need to remove the head and do all other kinds of stuff that doesnt sound like much fun. i figure the glow plugs shouldnt be too old since the tractor was owned by a NJ state prison and ive heard they are pretty strict on who does the maintenance and how often. so im sure the 2k hours on the engine is well maintained. also bridging the engine and driveshaft wasnt hard, for me. i had someone make the stub shaft fit the flywheel. he used a brake rotor for the job and it seems to be working well. some people told me the brake rotor would never hold up, but at almost full throttle ripping up the packed gravel on the top layer of the driveway it sure didnt break. heres some pics. the pic of the tractor is after my first weekend of engine hoist rental.
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Ah it's a hydro that makes things easier. For a while there I thought you'd managed to rig up a new throwout bearing and clutch linkage. I like the brake rotor setup, already well balanced and plenty strong enough to handle this. Is it just me or are the outer bolt holes in the brake rotor just drilled at random?
they are somewhat random but there evenly spaced in a star pattern. it seems to be working well.i havent got to ru her today because of having to work and helping my buddy get his jeep started but hopefully tonight once the jb weld on the radiator hardens ill fire her up.
I recently got a fairly beat up L2350DT and decided to check and clean up the glow plugs due to corrosion. The plugs were a bear due to the intake manifold blocking a socket or wrench from fully engaging the nut. Once I worried them out I put a foam ear plug in the hole for protection of the threads. I then took my air die grinder on the aluminum manifold to provide clearance for wrenches and sockets. Wow, what a difference in re-installation. Just a thought.
tomorrow im getting glow plugs. i tried starting it tonight, its 20 degrees out. the one glow plugs heats up more then the other i noticed. it wants to start but on a 2 cyl with only 1 up to temp its not happening. when its 40 out it starts but ill drop 15 or so on plugs, 4 on good penetrating oil and pop em out.
i got the one thats not by the intake mainfold out with a shot of pb blaster and i just set the ratchet on it and it started screwing out. the other one, well i had to grind down one of my nice irwin extracting sockets but now i got it half out and i dropped my socket on the driveway and since its not chrome i cant find it also i noticed my one glow plugs put out almost no heat, the other one thats under the manifold i could feel it got warmer, the other was stone cold. lets hope with new plugs this thing'll fire up like my uncles new diesel gator does, instantly.
but now i got it half out and i dropped my socket on the driveway and since its not chrome i cant find it also i noticed my one glow plugs put out almost no heat, the other one thats under the manifold i could feel it got warmer, the other was stone cold. lets hope with new plugs this thing'll fire up like my uncles new diesel gator does, instantly.