Hydraulic SSQA handles

[selftot]

I finally got around to my hydraulic SSQA.

It works better than expected - i thought there would be some messy around with the dimensions / movement. Measured multiple time before i started.

I can get the factory handles back on and working in minutes if i ever need to - just 2 factory bolts and 2 nuts.

 

[LFP57]

I finally got around to my hydraulic SSQA.

It works better than expected - i thought there would be some messy around with the dimensions / movement. Measured multiple time before i started.

I can get the factory handles back on and working in minutes if i ever need to - just 2 factory bolts and 2 nuts.

View attachment 176751

Is there anyway this can work using factory handles, what would happen if for some reason, the hydraulic cylinder or something else stopped working, would it still be possible to remove the attachment?

 

[selftot]

I thought about using the factory handles but decided to use "handless" handles for 2 reasons.

1) The factory handles do not extend down far enough, so the pivot point of the cylinder would be higher (less mechanical advantage). I just didn't like the idea of the cylinder pushing between the 2 factory pivots.

2) The factory handles were getting close to interfering with my grapple hoses. Now there are no handles swinging up and down to interfere with hoses.

The 3/8 metals plates i used extend below the lower factory pivot enough to attach the cylinder there. If i was to do it again i would just make the plates extend inward enough to attach the cylinder directly to both side rather than weld an extension on the cylinder.

Like I said, i can switch it all back to factory handles in about 2 minutes with a single wrench..

 

[TheOldHokie]

I finally got around to my hydraulic SSQA.

It works better than expected - i thought there would be some messy around with the dimensions / movement. Measured multiple time before i started.

I can get the factory handles back on and working in minutes if i ever need to - just 2 factory bolts and 2 nuts.

View attachment 176751

Love it .
This is a simple and handy upgrade.

Dan

 

[John T]

Not something I would need but very nice job.
Bravo.

Curious... IF you needed the 3rd function hoses for a grapple or something else.... How would you handle that?
A diverter valve?


anyway, looks good.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Curious... IF you needed the 3rd function hoses for a grapple or something else.... How would you handle that?
A diverter valve?


anyway, looks good.

Kubota adds a diverter. Personally I would add a separate valve.

Dan

 

[selftot]

I unplug the SSQA hoses once the grapple is locked in place and plug in the grapple hoses.
Reverse when taking it off.

I have to get off the tractor to connect/disconnect grapples hoses anyway so there's no value in having both circuits active at the same time.

This upgrade doesn't help a lot when switching the grapple but i'm back and forth with my other implements a lot.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Bravo Sir!!!!

I was just looking to do this on my 2501.

As you said, I would have to get off the machine to hook up the grapple, therefore using my existing hydraulics seems to make sense.

I would like to do this as well in the "near future" so any advice on the size/type of cylinder/hoses/fittings and your source(s) would be very much appreciated.

Kubota adds a diverter. Personally I would add a separate valve.

Dan

Forgive my ignorance, but when you say “add a separate valve” , in "layman's terms", is that like/same as "T-ing off" the existing couplers?

And would this eliminate ever having to disconnect/reconnect the “latching cylinder??

Please see attached “beautiful drawing”







Or is it a valve that you can turn “on and off” in order to isolate the new cylinder, thus preventing the “latching cylinder” from actuating while using the grapple?




Please see “beautiful drawing 2"

 

[TheOldHokie]

Bravo Sir!!!!

I was just looking to do this on my 2501.

As you said, I would have to get off the machine to hook up the grapple, therefore using my existing hydraulics seems to make sense.

I would like to do this as well in the "near future" so any advice on the size/type of cylinder/hoses/fittings and your source(s) would be very much appreciated.






Forgive my ignorance, but when you say “add a separate valve” , in "layman's terms", is that like/same as "T-ing off" the existing couplers?

And would this eliminate ever having to disconnect/reconnect the “latching cylinder??

Please see attached “beautiful drawing”

View attachment 176773





Or is it a valve that you can turn “on and off” in order to isolate the new cylinder, thus preventing the “latching cylinder” from actuating while using the grapple?




Please see “beautiful drawing 2"

View attachment 176775

Tees dont work.

I am not a fan of diverters - they generally cost as much as adding a "fourth function".

In this case a cheap DA electric control valve on the loader tower and a momentary 3 position rocker switch at the operators station to open/close the couplers is one solution.. Just daisy chain the valve off the third function valve. No need to screw with the loader valve or joystick. The downside is its two more hose runs on the loader arms.

There are other possibilities...

Dan

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Thanks Dan.

I don’t want to derail @selftot thread, so I will start a new one for the Noobs that want to do this…..

Will post new thread here when I get it up and running in a few.

 

[LFP57]

Bravo Sir!!!!

I was just looking to do this on my 2501.

As you said, I would have to get off the machine to hook up the grapple, therefore using my existing hydraulics seems to make sense.

I would like to do this as well in the "near future" so any advice on the size/type of cylinder/hoses/fittings and your source(s) would be very much appreciated.






Forgive my ignorance, but when you say “add a separate valve” , in "layman's terms", is that like/same as "T-ing off" the existing couplers?

And would this eliminate ever having to disconnect/reconnect the “latching cylinder??

Please see attached “beautiful drawing”

View attachment 176773





Or is it a valve that you can turn “on and off” in order to isolate the new cylinder, thus preventing the “latching cylinder” from actuating while using the grapple?




Please see “beautiful drawing 2"

View attachment 176775

There's a guy here in Michigan that sells SSQA Hydraulic kits with/without multiplier for Kubota: https://www.5elevendesignz.com/hydraulic-kits-accessories

 

[selftot]

Bravo Sir!!!!

I was just looking to do this on my 2501.

As you said, I would have to get off the machine to hook up the grapple, therefore using my existing hydraulics seems to make sense.

I would like to do this as well in the "near future" so any advice on the size/type of cylinder/hoses/fittings and your source(s) would be very much appreciated.

A 10” cylinder made sense to me. 1.5” bore because thats what was available at Princess Auto (similar to Harbour Freight). A longer cylinder allows for more tolerance for any small errors I make on the plate design.

To do it again, I might add more material on the plate so the cylinder attaches directly to both sides directly (I added an adjustable clevis to the cylinder but screwed up the measurement). Maybe a 1x 12 cylinder would work better. The plates I made could have worked with a 14” cylinder without the clevis.

I took the factory handle off and made a cardboard template but left off the grab handle part and added material at the bottom. Then manually move the SSQA lever manually to mark where the cardboard would move the length of the cylinder (5” on each side in my case). Then make another cardboard template because you screwed up the first time.



Once the plate (3/8 to match factory handle) is cut and holes drilled for factory pivot points, install the plate on the ssqa. Move the mechanism thru its range and mark exactly where the holes go for cylinder connection.

Hoses are 1/4” with #6 JIC. I like oversized JIC connectors for better hold. I used 1/2” air hose to measure the routing and I’m happy I added a little extra as the hydraulic hoses fit tighter. 56” worked well in my case.

 

[selftot]

There's a guy here in Michigan that sells SSQA Hydraulic kits with/without multiplier for Kubota: https://www.5elevendesignz.com/hydraulic-kits-accessories

Nice looking kits !

Although i prefer gray over those colors.

 

[selftot]

I’m an amateur welder. With that in mind here are some tips:

- Dont weld. Just make the plates big enough to fit the cylinder. 5elevendesignz got it right - in the link above.
- If you want to weld something for adjustable length like I tried, add it to one of the plates, not the cylinder. Easier to switch cylinders in the future.
- If you are still stubborn enough to weld onto the cylinder, do it on the piston end with the rod fully extended. Cover the rod and cylinder in case there is any splatter and manage heat so it does start going down the rod.