Hydraulic Deflector not working

[PNWBXer]

BX2380 with BX2816 SnowBlower with BX2821a Hydraulic Shoot deflector. When I depress the installed switch on the box on the stick.....a diverter valve should work to allow the deflector hyd piston to work (aka stops rotating shoot and starts raising or lowering the shoot deflector. That isn't happening as depressing the switch does nothing and still allows chute rotation (vice stopping rotation and starting deflection)

Year 5 of having this set up and its been working great in that time period. I started troubleshooting and realize I might be in over my head as electrical stuff isn't my strongest suite. I guess my question is if there are any known issues with this setup and might be an easy fix? Don't want to drag this thing to the dealer as I don't own a trailer and it would be a PITA. I"m just trying to wrap my head around how the whole system is wired so that I might find what is causing the issue.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I would need to see the wiring diagram as there are several ways to wire up the 'system ... but... 1st possibility is a blown fuse. 12 volt from battery 'should' be going to an inline fuse that feeds the push buttons that power the solenoid valves. If that's good, #2 would be 'no ground'.

Others who have that setup can offer better help.

 

[NCL4701]

Mine has a plug in connector that connects a few wires to the valve (the part that’s stuck on the side of the loader valve). At about 400 hours it quit working in the middle of a grapple job. Somehow that plug had worked loose just a little bit. Unplugged it, plugged it back in. Fixed.

Intended to take a look at it after finishing the job to see why it might have come loose, but we all know how good intentions often end up. 200 hours later no further issues.

So maybe in addition to the above advice from @GreensvilleJay, which I agree with, also unplug and reconnect any electrical connection plugs in the diverter wire harness. For mine, that’s just the connector on the diverter valve and a connector at the button on the stick. (Edit: Yes, there are other electrical connections, but they’re not plug type connectors.) YMMV.

 

[Dustball]

All the diverter valve needs is two wires- one is 12V and the other is ground. Start by checking continuity on the ground wire at the diverter valve to see if there is a continuous path back to the battery's ground. If that's good, move onto the 12V wire. If not, you'll need to find where there's an open.

While pressing the button, see if there's 12 volts on that wire at the diverter valve. If not, you'll need to move up the chain to find out where the 12 volts stops.

I don't believe there's a relay for that 12 volts but it all depends on how your setup was wired.

 

[PNWBXer]

I would need to see the wiring diagram as there are several ways to wire up the 'system ... but... 1st possibility is a blown fuse. 12 volt from battery 'should' be going to an inline fuse that feeds the push buttons that power the solenoid valves. If that's good, #2 would be 'no ground'.

Others who have that setup can offer better help.

Just tested the Relay and fuse next in line to the battery. Both checked good.

 

[PNWBXer]

Mine has a plug in connector that connects a few wires to the valve (the part that’s stuck on the side of the loader valve). At about 400 hours it quit working in the middle of a grapple job. Somehow that plug had worked loose just a little bit. Unplugged it, plugged it back in. Fixed.

Intended to take a look at it after finishing the job to see why it might have come loose, but we all know how good intentions often end up. 200 hours later no further issues.

So maybe in addition to the above advice from @GreensvilleJay, which I agree with, also unplug and reconnect any electrical connection plugs in the diverter wire harness. For mine, that’s just the connector on the diverter valve and a connector at the button on the stick. (Edit: Yes, there are other electrical connections, but they’re not plug type connectors.) YMMV.

I unplugged the connector at the valve and found that there was some corrosion on the prongs. Seems they mounted the unit 90 degrees off....towards the tractor instead of vertical due to the way the wire came in. Anyway.....cleaned up the rust and sprayed some lube in there and reconnected it. No joy...didn't work.

 

[PNWBXer]

All the diverter valve needs is two wires- one is 12V and the other is ground. Start by checking continuity on the ground wire at the diverter valve to see if there is a continuous path back to the battery's ground. If that's good, move onto the 12V wire. If not, you'll need to find where there's an open.

While pressing the button, see if there's 12 volts on that wire at the diverter valve. If not, you'll need to move up the chain to find out where the 12 volts stops.

I don't believe there's a relay for that 12 volts but it all depends on how your setup was wired.

Need to figure out how to do this. I used my volt meter to test both parts of the quick plug (part you plug in seasonally when you install or remove the snowblower. I had my daughter actuate the switch on the hyd stick and there was no indication other than 8 volts (DC). I think I did it right so idk? That seems like some sort of electrical issue. .....my logical brain says I should see something happen when the switch is engaged?!

 

[PNWBXer]

I tested the solenoid on the valve with my multimeter (ohms) (part that wire connects to) and couldn't make sense of it. It read 7 ohms? no idea what that means.

For reference.....the valve is a Rexroth R930059647. I'll post some pictures tomorrow for some follow up.

 

[BX'r]

7 ohms is likely the coil in the solenoid.
8 volts is likely a bad connection/corrosion.
Check the ohm reading across the switch.

 

[PNWBXer]

7 ohms is likely the coil in the solenoid.
8 volts is likely a bad connection/corrosion.
Check the ohm reading across the switch.

So will a 9 volt battery engage the solenoid (if I touch the right prongs) or do I need a 12 volt? Or is there a way with a multimeter to create that voltage? And I should hear a clicking if it's "good" right?

 

[PNWBXer]

Well...I have some electrical clamps in the mail so that I don't electrocute myself trying to volt test the solenoid. In the mean time.....if I figure out that the solenoid is fine.....how do I disassemble the valve? Does the end cap unscrew off? maybe break some Loctite off? I was watching some Youtube to try and find my valve but I only saw other brands. My assumption is the end cap unscrews ...but IDK.

 

[BX'r]

So will a 9 volt battery engage the solenoid (if I touch the right prongs) or do I need a 12 volt? Or is there a way with a multimeter to create that voltage? And I should hear a clicking if it's "good" right?

You'll need a 12 volt battery source.
You should hear a click.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Good news is the coil is OK, At 8 ohms you need 1.5 amps of current to make it work,so 9 volt battery will NOT do that.
'bad' news..
You'll have corroded wires by looking at the solenoid spade lugs ! I suspect the cable in post #1, 1st picture , the org/gry, goes to the solenoid ? I'd replace that for sure. Water gets onto the connector and 'wicks' into the copper stranded wires, copper corrodes, increases resistance, and ...hmm... valve no longer works.
Once you replace the wiring warness, see if you can put a baggie,electrical tape or some form or 'water deflection' on the connector/solenoid.

 

[Dustball]

Need to figure out how to do this. I used my volt meter to test both parts of the quick plug (part you plug in seasonally when you install or remove the snowblower. I had my daughter actuate the switch on the hyd stick and there was no indication other than 8 volts (DC). I think I did it right so idk? That seems like some sort of electrical issue. .....my logical brain says I should see something happen when the switch is engaged?!

As others have said, the good news is that function-wise it seems that everything is working. The switch, the relay, and the solenoid on the diverter valve. The bad news is that you don't have enough volts which is due to a poor connection somewhere.

Judging by the corrosion on the diverter valve solenoid housing, I would start by opening up the DIN connector and inspecting for corrosion. You may need to cut off corroded wire and re-strip to get back to clean copper.

Here's a video showing how the DIN connector works-

 

[GreensvilleJay]

as it's corroded, don't waste your time 'stripping back to 'clean' copper, it's already all bad. it's easier to replace 100% of it and KNOW it won't fail a day, a week, a year from now when you NEED it to work.
ran miles of solid copper in industrial buildings, leaving 2-3 feet 'extra' at every termination.got a 'LOS' call, went to the box, over 2 feet of that 'extra' copper had corroded. simple fix, amputate the bad. I was lucky as I used SOLID copper. With stranded,you have 7-19 solid copper wires twisted together and the corrosion will 'hide' in the twists and it'll travel far ,unseen, 'looks good'.....for awhile.

 

[PNWBXer]

Good news is the coil is OK, At 8 ohms you need 1.5 amps of current to make it work,so 9 volt battery will NOT do that.
'bad' news..
You'll have corroded wires by looking at the solenoid spade lugs ! I suspect the cable in post #1, 1st picture , the org/gry, goes to the solenoid ? I'd replace that for sure. Water gets onto the connector and 'wicks' into the copper stranded wires, copper corrodes, increases resistance, and ...hmm... valve no longer works.
Once you replace the wiring warness, see if you can put a baggie,electrical tape or some form or 'water deflection' on the connector/solenoid.

Yeah its supposed to be mounted vertically, assuming so water cant get in as easily, but it was mounted 90 degrees towards the tractor allowing water to get in there. I'll bandage that up good when it all works.....so I don't pay any more stupid tax.

 

[PNWBXer]

You'll need a 12 volt battery source.
You should hear a click.

If I hear a click ....the solenoid is good. So it's either a stuck valve or not enough power is getting to the solenoid to engage it?

If I don't hear a click (with a clean 12 VDC power source)....the solenoid is bad and needs replaced? can I do that without replacing the whole valve.....as it seems the solenoid is unique to the valve as you can see most clearly in Post #8.

 

[TheOldHokie]

[

If I hear a click ....the solenoid is good. So it's either a stuck valve or not enough power is getting to the solenoid to engage it?

If I don't hear a click (with a clean 12 VDC power source)....the solenoid is bad and needs replaced? can I do that without replacing the whole valve.....as it seems the solenoid is unique to the valve as you can see most clearly in Post #8.

If you hear a click test the chute deflector while maintaining power.

Those coils are usually replaceable. If you dont hear a click remove the coil and test it again. Good chance it does not click even when working.

EDIT

Here is the Rexroth catalog pages for the valve. You can remove the coil by unscrewing the ring nut on the end.

https://apps.boschrexroth.com/products/compact-hydraulics/ch-catalog/pdf/RE18302-15.pdf

Dan

 

[PNWBXer]

[

If you hear a click test the chute deflector while maintaining power.

Those coils are usually replaceable. If you dont hear a click remove the coil and test it again. Good chance it does not click even when working.

EDIT

Here is the Rexroth catalog pages for the valve. You can remove the coil by unscrewing the ring nut on the end.

https://apps.boschrexroth.com/products/compact-hydraulics/ch-catalog/pdf/RE18302-15.pdf

Dan

Awesome....thank you so much!!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well...I have some electrical clamps in the mail so that I don't electrocute myself trying to volt test the solenoid. In the mean time.....if I figure out that the solenoid is fine.....how do I disassemble the valve? Does the end cap unscrew off? maybe break some Loctite off? I was watching some Youtube to try and find my valve but I only saw other brands. My assumption is the end cap unscrews ...but IDK.

The solenoid is the valve.

Dan