How to Jam New Seal on L3170 Front Axle?

[Mr Haney]

I got around to replacing the oil seal on my L3710's front axle today. It's not a bad job, EXCEPT for removing the metal part of the old seal and installing the new one. The metal ring is extremely tight on the axle, and it has rubber inside it to make the friction worse.

A guy on the web said to heat it for 30 seconds to 1 minute with a torch to make it slip off. This works, except it takes longer than he said.

Now I have the old part off. I am cleaning the axle to make sure no burned rubber messes up the new seal.

What is the best way to jam the new seal on there? The rubber part is no problem, but the part with a metal ring is very hard to push on. A Youtube dude says lube doesn't help.

I pushed it on a short distance just to see what it's like, but I am not willing to continue until I have better information, because getting it out if I screw it up will not be fun.

I'm thinking I should try to find a piece of pipe that fits the ring and use it to push the ring on the hydraulic press. I would think even PVC would work.

It turned out the inner bearing was wiped out. The cage was broken. Two new bearings will go in as soon as the seal is on.

 

[Mr Haney]

I was able to bop the seal onto the hub using a short PVC fitting to push it, so that's finished.

Now I'm confused about the torque on the screws and nuts on the axle cover. Kubota calls its parts certain things in its catalog and completely different things in the WSM.

The WSM says to torque the axle flange mounting screws and nuts to 17.4 to 20.2 Ft.lbs. It says to torque the axle flange mounting stud bolt (singular) to 8.7 to 11.5.

There are two nuts mounted on studs, and the rest of the fasteners are screws. I don't see any "mounting stud bolt," and I don't see any fastener that is only used once. I guess Kubota had its usual translation problems.