Gr2120 electrical mods

[Jamesj]

What would the max amps for accessories on a GR2120? I haves added a heater with fan and led lights on the cab for a total of 8 amps. The accessories are connect directly to the battery via a relay / switch. Kubota dealer thinks that is too much amps for the generator / alternator.

 

[TheOldHokie]

What would the max amps for accessories on a GR2120? I haves added a heater with fan and led lights on the cab for a total of 8 amps. The accessories are connect directly to the battery via a relay / switch. Kubota dealer thinks that is too much amps for the generator / alternator.

You will know its too much if the battery goes flat. If not relax, turn on the lights and crank up the heat.

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

if this is the 'rider' (21hp ?) then.... according to the parts finder.','engine' section, ....DYNAMO, 150W/14.5 A

So... 14.5 amps total current out of the dynamo. Subtract say 5 for running with headlights on ?, you're left with about 10.. sub 8 for your heater( very small) and cab lights, now left with only 2 amps to recharge the battery..
It 'could' work though I don't like the 150Watts @ 14.5 amps, 13.2V x 14.5A = 192 Watts not 150.....hmmmm

Curious to know what the fuse rating is from the dynamo. I'm thinking 15 amps ? maybe 20 ??
What heater did you use ? Say it's 7 amps, 7*12 = 84 watts ,kinda like an 'old skool' 60 watt light bulb for heat..

 

[Jamesj]

if this is the 'rider' (21hp ?) then.... according to the parts finder.','engine' section, ....DYNAMO, 150W/14.5 A

So... 14.5 amps total current out of the dynamo. Subtract say 5 for running with headlights on ?, you're left with about 10.. sub 8 for your heater( very small) and cab lights, now left with only 2 amps to recharge the battery..
It 'could' work though I don't like the 150Watts @ 14.5 amps, 13.2V x 14.5A = 192 Watts not 150.....hmmmm

Curious to know what the fuse rating is from the dynamo. I'm thinking 15 amps ? maybe 20 ??
What heater did you use ? Say it's 7 amps, 7*12 = 84 watts ,kinda like an 'old skool' 60 watt light bulb for heat..

So more detail and the full story…

heater = 2.9 amps
beacon = 19 watts / 12 = 1.58 amps
led cab lights = 2 x 18 watts / 12 = 3 amps

and the story

last weekend i was mowing the lawn and I went to turn off the engine and it kept running. Then I noticed that when I push the pto reverse button the light didn’t flash And I was able to go in reverse with the pto engaged.

Killed engine - restarted engine and engaged the pto and was able to go in reverse without the reverse pto button pushed.

It gets better…next, while standing next to the mower I was able to start it and engage the pto. No pushing the brake or sitting on the seat.

Took to my local Kubota dealer and so far the can’t figure out what is wrong, but are thinking my accessories draw too many amps and fired something.

First kinda scary that if the safety features fail open ie, they just do not work. Second, I can’t see ~8 amps off the battery firing something.

 

[TheOldHokie]

So more detail and the full story…

heater = 2.9 amps
beacon = 19 watts / 12 = 1.58 amps
led cab lights = 2 x 18 watts / 12 = 3 amps

and the story

last weekend i was mowing the lawn and I went to turn off the engine and it kept running. Then I noticed that when I push the pto reverse button the light didn’t flash And I was able to go in reverse with the pto engaged.

Killed engine - restarted engine and engaged the pto and was able to go in reverse without the reverse pto button pushed.

It gets better…next, while standing next to the mower I was able to start it and engage the pto. No pushing the brake or sitting on the seat.

Took to my local Kubota dealer and so far the can’t figure out what is wrong, but are thinking my accessories draw too many amps and fired something.

First kinda scary that if the safety features fail open ie, they just do not work. Second, I can’t see ~8 amps off the battery firing something.

Could someone please explain how an excessive current draw fries anything. When load exceeds alternator output current is supplied by the battery. If/when battery goes flat engine shuts off or it won't restart. Standard scenario on old British sports cars with weak sister generators.

Dan

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Could someone please explain how an excessive current draw fries anything.

More current = more heat. More heat can cause components to fail.

 

[TheOldHokie]

More current = more heat. More heat can cause components to fail.

Huh? He is adding loads. The overall current draw is increased but individual component draws are not. This is the same scenario as a failing or failed alternator - the charge warning light comes on and if you persist the battery just goes flat.

Dan

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Huh? He is adding loads. The overall current draw is increased but individual component draws are not.

There is the alternator/dynamo at the start of the circuit, and wiring as well, which all gets the entire load before it goes to a fuse box or wherever it gets split up. The fuse box itself can be overloaded, resulting in heat damage, which is not always an ON/OFF kind of thing.

 

[TheOldHokie]

There is the alternator/dynamo at the start of the circuit, and wiring as well, which all gets the entire load before it goes to a fuse box or wherever it gets split up. The fuse box itself can be overloaded, resulting in heat damage, which is not always an ON/OFF kind of thing.

I think you are conjuring up boogey men.

He has added a new circuit to carry the added load which is coming straight from the battery. All the alternator has to do is charge the battery as it is drawn down. If it can't replenish that draw the battery goes flat.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

So more detail and the full story…

heater = 2.9 amps
beacon = 19 watts / 12 = 1.58 amps
led cab lights = 2 x 18 watts / 12 = 3 amps

and the story

last weekend i was mowing the lawn and I went to turn off the engine and it kept running. Then I noticed that when I push the pto reverse button the light didn’t flash And I was able to go in reverse with the pto engaged.

Killed engine - restarted engine and engaged the pto and was able to go in reverse without the reverse pto button pushed.

It gets better…next, while standing next to the mower I was able to start it and engage the pto. No pushing the brake or sitting on the seat.

Took to my local Kubota dealer and so far the can’t figure out what is wrong, but are thinking my accessories draw too many amps and fired something.

First kinda scary that if the safety features fail open ie, they just do not work. Second, I can’t see ~8 amps off the battery firing something.

BTW - that sounds like the KRA system is not working - personally I would consider that a good thing. It s a crazy system intertwined with the other safety circuits and I am sure it drives techs crazy trying to trouble shoot the logic. I disabled it on both my mowers long ago.

On my G2160 there is also a 2A (??) fuse that supplies the fuel shutoff solenoid - I think it was under the seat . When it blows the engine won't shutoff with the switch and that has been a constant problem. Its been quite a while and I am not sure but it may take the KRA system with it as well.

Edit: After further rumination I am beginning to think that fuse supplies the KRA logic board which is what controls all of the safety switches and stop solenoid. Its been a long time and I can't remember the exact details. All I am really sure of is it was a constant problem and I eventually gave up on replacing it. So I have no KRA and no shutoff solenoid. First is good - second not so much.

Dan

 

[Mark_BX25D]

He has added a new circuit to carry the added load which is coming straight from the battery. All the alternator has to do is charge the battery as it is drawn down.

Yes, which puts more load on the alternator. More load = more heat. More heat leads to failed components.