Electrical Issue

[klsdbr]

Hi All,
Recently purchased a B2320 and have been thoroughly enjoying using it.

I was driving my tractor and noticed the fuel level was at empty, so I stopped the tractor and fueled up. I thought it was odd, because it was at quarter fuel not long before, but attributed the apparently inaccurate fuel reading to the steep hill I had been seeding with grass. When I went to start the tractor, it wouldn't do anything. The glow plug light did work, but not the fuel or temperature gauge. I read the battery voltage and it was at 12. I was able to run a hot wire to the solenoid to get it to start so I could finish up the last hour of work I had remaining. After that, it would still not work and the battery was below 11. Any attempts to start the tractor after that needed a booster pack and a 12v jump to the solenoid. The battery is now reading at 6.5v when the tractor is off, and 8.2v when it's on.

Is this an alternator issue? I had assumed not, because the 2 gauges also do not work. A ground issue then?


Any tips on where to start diagnosing would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Dave_eng]

You do not have an alternator but a dynamo.
The dynamo is simple and rarely fails. Some permanent magnets rotating around coils of wire.
Find the dynamo, disconnect the two leads on it, start the engine and measure the AC voltage between the two wires.
Note I said AC voltage.

Usually the regulator/rectifier is the thing that fails.

Forum member Lugbolt has provided the attached diagnostic procedure for these systems.
Dave

 

[klsdbr]

You do not have an alternator but a dynamo.
The dynamo is simple and rarely fails. Some permanent magnets rotating around coils of wire.
Find the dynamo, disconnect the two leads on it, start the engine and measure the AC voltage between the two wires.
Note I said AC voltage.
View attachment 87318
Usually the regulator/rectifier is the thing that fails.

Forum member Lugbolt has provided the attached diagnostic procedure for these systems.
Dave

14.4v at idle, 40v at full throttle, but one of the connectors was fairly corroded. There's a decent chance that is the issue. Thanks for your response, I'll update when I replace the connectors!

 

[Mark_BX25D]

one of the connectors was fairly corroded. There's a decent chance that is the issue.

Yep. Sounds like a good time to do some preventive maintenance on your connections in general. Clean contacts and dielectric grease make the good times roll.

 

[klsdbr]

You do not have an alternator but a dynamo.
The dynamo is simple and rarely fails. Some permanent magnets rotating around coils of wire.
Find the dynamo, disconnect the two leads on it, start the engine and measure the AC voltage between the two wires.
Note I said AC voltage.
View attachment 87318
Usually the regulator/rectifier is the thing that fails.

Forum member Lugbolt has provided the attached diagnostic procedure for these systems.
Dave

Replacing the connection didn't help.

I followed the guide you posted and everything checks out as expected. I'll replace the rectifier as it seems to be the culprit. Thanks for posting the guide. I'll update after replacing the rectifier so other people with the same symptoms can find this thread. I come from the VW world where forums are now pretty much defunkt. It's nice to see an active one!

 

[klsdbr]

Update -


I installed the new rectifier, which didn't fix the problem. I then realized I was dumb and should have checked the small fuse box on the side of the engine first. Surely enough, the fuse going to the cluster panel was dead. This would explain why my fuel/temp gauge wasn't working. That fuse must stop the charging system somehow as well. All works well, and I have a spare rectifier

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I'm a big fan of having fuses in as few places as possible. Like, one fuse box would be ideal, two is tolerable, and if you have odd fuses scattered here and there, you shouldn't be designing anything!

Glad you found it.