Damaged Wheel Flange BX2380

fransser

Member
Jul 30, 2019
30
9
8
Sedgwick
Hi,
I recently posted a question about using some lock-tight on a wheel lug bolt to keep it from backing out.

However, when I finally got the wheel removed, the situation is worse than I thought. One of the lug bolts was actually "galled" and frozen. I was able to remove the bolt with the impact wrench but the threads in the flange are definitely damaged. Would using a heli-coil to repair the damage be recommended?

The local auto parts store has a heli-coil repair kit that is the right size and I know these are used to fix stripped spark plugs all the time but I've never heard of anyone using this to repair a wheel flange. Has anyone done this?
 

Fedup

Active member
Apr 6, 2016
310
108
43
Winchester
You're looking at it, I'm not. While a heli-coil might be an option, it wouldn't be my first choice. I would first try to run a tap through the hole, (probably all of them in fact) install new, slightly longer lug bolts and put nuts behind them. The axle flange in parts diagrams looks like it would support that.
 

BX25D Rookie

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2011 BX 25LB-R (dirt work, snow, and brush hogging) & 2013 BX 2370 (mowing lawn)
Mar 21, 2019
195
198
43
upstate, NY USA
There are special taps for this application that "form" the threads back into position.
They are called a "forming tap" or "repair tap" and may require an online purchase to get one.
Any type of tap that "cuts" threads will just remove the flawed/displaced material and you will
end up with a flange where the bolts/nuts will not reach the proper torque value. They WILL strip out.
Forming the damaged threads back where they belong is what you want.

Heli-coil is an option if thread forming fails.
Once the axle flange is tapped for the Heli-coil outside thread, degrease everything and use Loctite
Stud & Bearing mount to keep the Heli-coil from moving in the axle flange.
A highly skilled TIG welder can do the same function, just a different option.

Or try what Member Fedup suggested.

There are many other options, but most of them are outside the realm of the average tractor owner/ hobbyist mechanic. The damaged holes can be welded up, redrilled, tapped.
But that will require an indexing head on a Bridgeport Milling Machine and welding.

The flange could also have the damaged threaded holes bored out with a boring head and flanged nuts
welded into/onto the axle flange from the back side.

Both of the above repair options are a last ditch effort, where replacement parts are unavailable.
With a BX 2380, worst case, buy a new rear axle or front axle flange and it's like new again.
But changing a rear axle shaft or front axle flange may require Kubota Dealership service department IF you can't do it yourself.

I torque all lug studs/nuts with a torque wrench when installing wheels/tires.
Cars, trucks, tractors, side-by-sides, ATV's, and trailers.
I have a cheap cross wrench I use to periodically check to see if any of the lug studs/nuts have loosened.
I suggest you start periodically checking lug studs/nuts for adequate torque.
It can be an expensive lesson to learn.

One winter some years back I was too busy to do an oil change and tire rotation on my Jeep.
Maybe it could be I was too lazy because it was darn cold out in my unheated shop/barn.
I made a stupid mistake. I took the Jeep to a Jeep dealership near me.
Several weeks later, I started hearing an odd "cracking" noise when starting to move.
A bit of diagnosis, and all the wheel lug nuts were found to be loose on one rear wheel.
Lug studs chewed up, one lug stud snapped off and gone, and one fancy aluminum wheel
damaged on the conical seats for the lug nuts. The Jeep had a spare with an aluminum wheel,
so shuffling some tires around from wheel to wheel, five new lug studs & five new lug nuts and I was back in business again. My Jeep has not been at that Jeep Dealership since.