New Kubota L4610 HST owner with a 6' brush hog. Neighbor says there is a "right" way to brush hog. What is correct direction of travel? Thanks
Correct direction of Travel for Brush Hoging
- Thread starter drcdac
- Start date
Forward.
Rotary cutters don't care if you are cutting 'clear right' like belly mowers. Some will, by rotational effects, leave the cuttings to one side or the other but they are rear discharge so you can cut up and back the same side of the cutting area with no clogging of the cutter.
Rotary cutters don't care if you are cutting 'clear right' like belly mowers. Some will, by rotational effects, leave the cuttings to one side or the other but they are rear discharge so you can cut up and back the same side of the cutting area with no clogging of the cutter.
Assuming the brushhog is correct for the tractor with respect to the direction of PTO rotation (some especially earlier Kubotas have a 'backwards' PTO direction of rotation) you'll find that the 'hog will tend to throw cuttings out the rear but more to one side----much like the deflector on a pushmower points to one side.
Pay attention as you drive slowly and you should see a definite pattern. Then you decide if you want to throw cuttings to the already-cut side for ease of operation or toward the to-be-cut side in order to recut and mulch. "Right" direction is eye of user based on desired outcome.
Bushhog being not a precision machine don't expect miracles.
I painted on deck of mine the more prevalent "discharge direction" as a reminder when trying to get best possible cut.
Some bushhogs rotate their blades one way, some another, all regardless of PTO. Check at a large supplier and you can find hundreds of blade types. If not careful you can get a blade just like yours with same hole, angles, wings, length, width, but with the cutting edge on the wrong side.
If you have doubts for any reason (previous owner or other well-intended party) contact manufacturer for part number and diagram of what your blade SHOULD look like and compare.
I've seen blades mounted upside down, backwards, too short, trimmed with torch, sharpened incorrectly, attached with plain bolts not keyed, 'correct' but cutting edge backwards for rotation. Have become very suspicious of bargain brushhogs.
Believe it or not blades bend fairly easily and last year managed to break one. That was exciting for a few seconds. Blade life depends on use. When you have them off to sharpen compare one to another or to a new set that you keep on hand for spares and you'll see deformation over time.
Depending on intended use and your machine I suggest a disk-type stump-jumper instead of a bar for mounting blades. Get a bar-type wrapped up around a sapling and it'll turn the tractor sideways in a heartbeat--or stall or break something.
Get proper wrench for nut and remove blades annually or as needed to put in vise and sharpen with hand-grinder. Use new lockwashers each time. Watch the key on the bolt for wear. Thread sealant on bolt will allow easier future removal.
Check gearbox frequently while new until seals wear-in and top off with mfg's suggested gear oil type.
Pay attention as you drive slowly and you should see a definite pattern. Then you decide if you want to throw cuttings to the already-cut side for ease of operation or toward the to-be-cut side in order to recut and mulch. "Right" direction is eye of user based on desired outcome.
Bushhog being not a precision machine don't expect miracles.
I painted on deck of mine the more prevalent "discharge direction" as a reminder when trying to get best possible cut.
Some bushhogs rotate their blades one way, some another, all regardless of PTO. Check at a large supplier and you can find hundreds of blade types. If not careful you can get a blade just like yours with same hole, angles, wings, length, width, but with the cutting edge on the wrong side.
If you have doubts for any reason (previous owner or other well-intended party) contact manufacturer for part number and diagram of what your blade SHOULD look like and compare.
I've seen blades mounted upside down, backwards, too short, trimmed with torch, sharpened incorrectly, attached with plain bolts not keyed, 'correct' but cutting edge backwards for rotation. Have become very suspicious of bargain brushhogs.
Believe it or not blades bend fairly easily and last year managed to break one. That was exciting for a few seconds. Blade life depends on use. When you have them off to sharpen compare one to another or to a new set that you keep on hand for spares and you'll see deformation over time.
Depending on intended use and your machine I suggest a disk-type stump-jumper instead of a bar for mounting blades. Get a bar-type wrapped up around a sapling and it'll turn the tractor sideways in a heartbeat--or stall or break something.
Get proper wrench for nut and remove blades annually or as needed to put in vise and sharpen with hand-grinder. Use new lockwashers each time. Watch the key on the bolt for wear. Thread sealant on bolt will allow easier future removal.
Check gearbox frequently while new until seals wear-in and top off with mfg's suggested gear oil type.
Thanks I have a new 6' Priefert shredder. Just finished 15 acres and it didn't make any difference cut left or right. Thanks for reply
steve l
New member
Equipment
2 m9000,9540 all cabgmd700 kuhn 605m vermeer,r23a vermeer rake,468 jd baler,
i always go to the right out of habit because hay equipment is on the right side of the tractorNew Kubota L4610 HST owner with a 6' brush hog. Neighbor says there is a "right" way to brush hog. What is correct direction of travel? Thanks
I usually alternate between clockwise and counterclockwise for no other reason than to get even wear on my brakes (Used to make tight turns). I mow 15 acres twice a year with my L2800 and 5' bush hog.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
I just finished my seventh day bush hogging with a 6' on our L5740 and 10' on the M8540 and really can't tell any difference; three or four more days and I should be done.
May I add an aspect not otherwise mentioned? Shear pins.
If yours has the grooved swedge-type pin get that thing out of there before it shears. It'll be a hard fight to get that inner sheared segment out of the inner rotating portion of the driveline or U-joint collar. Honest, if you have to remove a sheared swedged pin in the dark...
I have come to dislike the choose-a-length shear pins that have ten different cotter key holes because I think they shear too easily.
Here's what we use: two choices depending how you want to live life. Be aware that some driveline shear-pin holes are apparently metric or oddly sized so you may need to experiment to find the fit you desire.
(1) Use the correct size slip-fit or lightly hammered 'pin' but use a "no-grade" (Grade 2, no markings on head) bolt with the length selected such that the nut when tight shoulders up to the shank of the bolt leaving no threads to ride inside the hole thereby preventing thread-caused burrs around the hole. Use self-locking NyLock nuts. Flat washers optional but I don't like leaving scrap metal slung all around the place. When you buy a handful of the correct length bolts take a hand-grinder and make a couple of passes down the shank creating one long flat spot along the shank. I do this to better see where the pin actually is as I rotate the shaft to get holes in alignment and also to get a lube down along the sheared pin before drifting it out.
(2) Go one size smaller bolt (example: 7/16" instead of 1/2" 'pin') same as above and stay with Grade 2 head markings. The slight difference in diameter compares favorably to yield approximately the same shear requirement and makes it oh so much easier to replace the bolt. I can't recommend it but have tried one-size smaller bolt using a Grade 5 bolt and honestly can't tell much difference.
Stock a few of the correct size shear pins for future use.
Never use Grade-8 / SAE / other hardened bolts as you need the ability to shear when overloaded in order to protect both machines.
We use a 6-footer to clean up around fence-rows after haying, on pond dams, and to keep brush down through some rough goat-like pasture along tree-lines and manage to shear a pin probably two or three times a year by being fairly careful. But it doesn't take but one 'new' frost heave rock or clump of something when set too low to cost you a pin. Be prepared.
If yours has the grooved swedge-type pin get that thing out of there before it shears. It'll be a hard fight to get that inner sheared segment out of the inner rotating portion of the driveline or U-joint collar. Honest, if you have to remove a sheared swedged pin in the dark...
I have come to dislike the choose-a-length shear pins that have ten different cotter key holes because I think they shear too easily.
Here's what we use: two choices depending how you want to live life. Be aware that some driveline shear-pin holes are apparently metric or oddly sized so you may need to experiment to find the fit you desire.
(1) Use the correct size slip-fit or lightly hammered 'pin' but use a "no-grade" (Grade 2, no markings on head) bolt with the length selected such that the nut when tight shoulders up to the shank of the bolt leaving no threads to ride inside the hole thereby preventing thread-caused burrs around the hole. Use self-locking NyLock nuts. Flat washers optional but I don't like leaving scrap metal slung all around the place. When you buy a handful of the correct length bolts take a hand-grinder and make a couple of passes down the shank creating one long flat spot along the shank. I do this to better see where the pin actually is as I rotate the shaft to get holes in alignment and also to get a lube down along the sheared pin before drifting it out.
(2) Go one size smaller bolt (example: 7/16" instead of 1/2" 'pin') same as above and stay with Grade 2 head markings. The slight difference in diameter compares favorably to yield approximately the same shear requirement and makes it oh so much easier to replace the bolt. I can't recommend it but have tried one-size smaller bolt using a Grade 5 bolt and honestly can't tell much difference.
Stock a few of the correct size shear pins for future use.
Never use Grade-8 / SAE / other hardened bolts as you need the ability to shear when overloaded in order to protect both machines.
We use a 6-footer to clean up around fence-rows after haying, on pond dams, and to keep brush down through some rough goat-like pasture along tree-lines and manage to shear a pin probably two or three times a year by being fairly careful. But it doesn't take but one 'new' frost heave rock or clump of something when set too low to cost you a pin. Be prepared.