BX1870 RPM/PTO Issues

[BenRich]

Hey guys,
I haven't posted for awhile as everything has been operating perfectly on my 2013 BX1870.

I last mowed four days ago using my Land Pride FDR 1648 finish mower and the little BX 1870 worked/mowed flawlessly. Just previous to this mowing I had greased up all the zerks on the mower.

Today I went to mow after using the FEL to move one single load of wood chip mulch.. no problem there.

Started mowing (using the same finish mower) and saw that I was rapidly losing engine RPM (recommended engine RPM is 3142 for rear PTO). As soon as I disengaged the PTO, the engine instantly regained its RPM.

I brought the tractor back to the garage and after ensuring that the finish mower was not gummed up in any way and then going through the owner's manual I decided I would change at least the transmission filter. The fluid level was fine according to the transmission dipstick.

I changed the transmission filter and it seemed to have done the trick... for about five minutes, then the issue started again: the engine would bog down/lose RPM and as soon as I disengaged the PTO the engine would regain RPM.

This BX1870 has 187 hours on it; I bought it in April of 2013 and have religiously kept it clean, lubricated and serviced. The manual calls for changing the transmission filter at 50 hours (which I did) and then at 200 hours (done now at 187 hours).

The manual recommends changing transmission fluid at 400 hours and cleaning the transmission screen/strainer at that same number of hours.

Any suggestions as to what might be the issue here? I did notice some very fine "glitter" within what little transmission fluid came out when I changed the filter but it was not beyond what I would consider to be normal break-in type metal "glitter".

Could the transmission screen/strainer be clogged and this is bogging things down?

For whatever its worth, the tractor is stored in its own little shed and so does not sit out in any rain/sleet/snow, etc.

I'd be grateful for any advise and thanks much.

Ben Rich

 

[Lostdutchman]

What type of grease did you use? Sounds like maybe it didn't like the grease. The fine glitter seems like break in wear. Keep an eye on it though.


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[BenRich]

What type of grease did you use? Sounds like maybe it didn't like the grease. The fine glitter seems like break in wear. Keep an eye on it though.


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I used the same type grease I've been using for the last year on the finish mower. It's not the grease, nor the finish mower, as the blades on the mower turn freely. In other words, there is no binding at all on the blade spindles.

Thanks for your suggestion though.

Ben Rich

 

[aeblank]

So it boggs when the pto is on and the mower is NOT connected?

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[BenRich]

So it boggs when the pto is on and the mower is NOT connected?

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I have not disconnected the mower to find out. I was hoping somebody would have some experience with this issue.

I should have mentioned, for those that are not familiar with the BX series tractors, that this machine is entirely HST. Even the PTO(s) are hydraulically driven - not mechanically driven. This is why I hope/suspect the problem might be that the hydraulic screen/strainer is clogged.

I don't know, but doubt that the PTO would bog the engine down if there was no load on it, so I'm not sure that disconnecting the mower would show me anything (at this point at least).

Thanks,

Ben

 

[skeets]

Just a question,,, check your PTO lever there are 3 spots it can be in,, and they have pictures top id for the MMM middle it for BOTH MMM and rear PTO and bottom for the REAR,, check to see if maybe the PTO lever has been pushed in running both of them,, just a thought,,, the other is check the geat box on the MMM and see if it has fluid in it,,, yes the drain bolt will shake out,,, don't ask

 

[BenRich]

Just a question,,, check your PTO lever there are 3 spots it can be in,, and they have pictures top id for the MMM middle it for BOTH MMM and rear PTO and bottom for the REAR,, check to see if maybe the PTO lever has been pushed in running both of them,, just a thought,,, the other is check the geat box on the MMM and see if it has fluid in it,,, yes the drain bolt will shake out,,, don't ask

Thankee Skeets,

I should have mentioned that in my first post regarding the position of the PTO lever. I have a two-year old grandson that loves to sit in the tractor seat (engine off, key out of ignition and all hydraulic implements lowered to ground). In the past he has jiggered the PTO lever into either another position or gotten it in-between... so that was the very first thing I did check. And the lever was where it was supposed to be for the rear PTO.

I don't have a MMM on my BX 1870; I only use the finish mower attached to the 3 point hitch. I did, however, check the gear oil level in the finish mower (it was fine) and the gear box was barely warm (more from sunlight than from driven gear sets).

I seem to remember in my cloudy memory that somebody, maybe it was Service Department Vic, mentioned that a clogged hydraulic filter and/or a clogged hydraulic screen/strainer, could cause the engine to bog down when using the hydraulically-driven PTO. This is what I'm hoping somebody will confirm for me, as I can then take care of this myself rather than getting it to the dealer as it is still under warranty.

Thanks again,

Ben

 

[cerlawson]

A bx owner here with about the same hours. Spent many a n hour trying to solve frequent stopping when mowing. Now the first thing I think of is plugged fuel filters. They are very fine and really plug up fast. Also, my BX had a bad fuel pump from the start.. I also figured part of my problems were related to a plugged fuel tank cap because when I checked for why it quit running and replace the cap all was OK. I made up this fuel filter testing jig. I fill it with fuel and check how long it takes to run down to the bottom mark on the bottle. It is amazing how much slower even a few hours on it make. I change filters when it takes twice as long. You may also want to add one of those Briggs and Stratton fuel shut offs ahead of the first fuel filter to make the job easier. The Canadian up in the east end with the fancy posts here changed his filters to a larger one. You can see how little the filtering surface is.

 

[BenRich]

A bx owner here with about the same hours. Spent many a n hour trying to solve frequent stopping when mowing. Now the first thing I think of is plugged fuel filters. They are very fine and really plug up fast. Also, my BX had a bad fuel pump from the start.. I also figured part of my problems were related to a plugged fuel tank cap because when I checked for why it quit running and replace the cap all was OK. I made up this fuel filter testing jig. I fill it with fuel and check how long it takes to run down to the bottom mark on the bottle. It is amazing how much slower even a few hours on it make. I change filters when it takes twice as long. You may also want to add one of those Briggs and Stratton fuel shut offs ahead of the first fuel filter to make the job easier. The Canadian up in the east end with the fancy posts here changed his filters to a larger one. You can see how little the filtering surface is.

Thankee cerlawson,

After supper last night I was mulling this over and was starting to think fuel issues rather than hydraulic. On Monday, when the dealer is open, I'll get a couple of filters from him and see if this resolves this.

Thanks again,

Ben

 

[BenRich]

A big thank-you to cerlawson. I got two fuel filters from the dealer this morning and swapped out only the filter next to the pump. That filter was filthy inside with what looked like rust flakes. I'm not completely sure that what was inside but I'll saw the filter apart and try to determine exactly what it was that clogged it up.

The filter attached to the engine looked to be in perfect shape so I didn't swap it out.

I'll tell you right now for those that own the little BX 1870, that filter next to the pump is a real pig to get at. I changed the spring clips for hose clips as that will make it a little easier to remove but while I was changing it my mind was busy thinking of some way to remote this filter to an easier location for service.

Thanks again cerlawson, I appreciate your assistance.

Ben

 

[cerlawson]

Removing the left rear wheel and the protective plate make the job easier. Adding a shut off valve ahead of the first filter also helps. The bolts holding the plate need to be tight, since they tend to loosen. It is cheap enough to change all filters when going at it I think, considering the grief of doing the job to begin with. Check out the U-tube video posts of Paul Short on how he changed the fuel filter on a BX to a larger one..