Battery light @ glow plug light blinking

Edrnemt

New member
Sep 28, 2011
1
0
0
Delmar, ny, usa
I have a Kubota L35 TLB. 1994 I think. I noticed the glow plug light blinking, then the key switch stopped shutting the motor off, then the battery light came on and now the battery goes dead. This all happened in about a month. I tried replacing the battery, and that one went dead too. What's wrong?
 

tbofram

New member

Equipment
kubota b1-15 (plus a few attachements)
Sep 28, 2011
9
0
0
langholm,D&G,Scotland
Hi, i am not too sure about your glow plug issue as i havnt really done much work with glows. But its possible the altinator in your tractor could be not working (that explains the battery light) too check this i recommend getting the tractor running (if the battery is flat you will need to boost it with the car) and get a multi meter and check if the current goes up (you will need to keep the revs high as it wont charge on low revs) .
 

Stubbyie

New member
Jul 1, 2010
879
7
0
Midcontinent
Found on my L35 that the glow plugs were constantly 'on' when switch was 'on' as indicated by first intermittent and then steady glow.

Battery wouldn't hold a charge.

Replaced glow plug controller under dash and all works in that regard.

Theory is that glow plugs were using so much of the battery's stored power that the alternator couldn't ever get the battery caught up and fully charged during short runs.

Repeated deep discharges killed battery before figured it out.

Regarding troubleshooting the switch you need a good analog (needle-type) multimeter (even an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight or Radio Shack) to check switch functions. Sounds like a possible short and / or bad switch.

Not sure if the two events---switch and glow plugs---are directly related.

Check also the engine-stop solenoid for power and function. These do fail and some posters describe a senstivity to being wet causing failure.

If you can't check current with an ammeter for battery charging look at alternator output voltage---alternator should be putting out ~13.8-vdc at battery terminals.

If the alternator is shot consider getting it rebuilt locally to save money. When rebuilding it can also be upgraded to increase amperage output.

Digital multimeters can be too sensitive (sometimes just flourescent lights drive them nutty); I like to see hints of movement as the needle on an analog numbered scale twitches. If you've got the budget and the need get a circuit-breaker protected Simpson and you'll never regret it.

Post back on here and let us all know what you found and how you fixed it.