B5200 Stiffening!

[Fastest1]

Last year I bought an old B5200 with what I "ass u me d" was a bad clutch.

It turns out, due to the FEL and whatever attachment puts too much stress on the bell housing. It had come apart at this joint and broken the input shaft. I got it put back together, new clutch etc. and in a week or so of use, it started to loosen a this point again. I had to think of a cure. I installed longer bolts around the entire bell housing, loc tite and I installed nyloc nuts on the back side. This should eliminate the vibrating loose problem. It didn't take care of the stress being transferred to the bell housing. I then thought up the idea of a sub frame connector. There are numerous holes in the rear axle that are threaded. So I built a brace that reaches from the FEL's mounting bracket to the axle. It increased the rigidity immensely. You could see this at the hood / body junction. Here are a few pics.

 

[Stumpy]

Very nice! Did you replace the bell housing bolts? If it was loosening there can't be much left of the threads either. Might be prudent to drill and replace them with nuts in addition to your sub frame piece. Looks like a fine piece of fabricating!

 

[Fastest1]

Thanks on the fabrication. This was my first real welding project. The photography could improve.

I did install new bolts, longer ones than the originals, with loctite and nyloc nuts as an extra precaution.

 

[MagKarl]

Good idea. The only thing that concerns me is the single bolt connection of the arms coming from the rear axle. You want that joint to carry any tipping of the towers and immediately lift the rear. How tight is that connection?

Here's a pic of my model tractor, and you can see how beefy the connection is between the rear arms of the subframe and the vertical towers and how tall the arms themselves are.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=55076

 

[Fastest1]

There are 2 bolts on each side of the rear axle, they are very tight but I will be keeping an eye on them in the beginning for sure. There are 2 in the front of the subframe connector, 1 on the x plane and 1 on the z.

I originally thought the need to tie the upright of FEL mount back to the ROPS would be necessary. I dont think this is the case anymore. That being said, the joy of welding and fabrication has made me contemplate a few changes. Somebody had previously cut my ROPS down. I am not sure why. I will be raising it back up and maybe higher than original. I am then going to attach 2 pieces parallel to the length of the tractor, attached at the top of the ROPS projecting forward a few feet and then 2-45's attaching to the upper of the FEL mount. This should give me great protection from branches, increase rigidity even further (it will be removable by bolts) and provide the structure for a shade and or including a fan

 

[skeets]

Fast that looks like it will stiffen things up pretty well, it looks good,,, Now I wont go into my feelings on the ROPS, Just make sure your welds are VERY GOOD there.. Have fun and enjoy the little beasty

 

[Fastest1]

Skeets, It will look like a dozer's cage! I like my ROPS, after posting this yesterday I saw a picture of a similar tractor. The previous owner removed the pivot. As the ROPS appeared to have an ability to fold up if desired. Mine is rigid but short. It would keep from crushing me most likely but it is not above my head.

My plan is to extend it over my head by 6-8 inches. My welds will be plenty strong to support a small tractor as the 5200. They will be overkill! But the plan is to have it bolt on to the ROPS and the FEL frame. For serviceability and some flexibility. I imagine large bushings or similar welded and then large bolts thru.

 

[bandaidmd]

Great job, the last subframe connectors I put on were on my sons Mustang.
One critique, if you ever have them off again maybe a gussett between the bolts or box in the end of that angle to prevent it from ever flexing.

 

[Fastest1]

I was going to gusset it and got rushed. It would have been smarter.