I have a 2021 B2601 and last Thursday it would not start. When I turned the key I just got a click. I bought a new battery for it and that didn't fix it. I bought a new starter and installed it and that didn't work. I checked the PTO lever and that is not the problem. I moved the pedal for forward and reverse back and forth and that did not work. The dealer that I bought it from changed hands and I can't get a traveling mechanic from to call me back. Any advice?
B2601 will not start
- Thread starter Gsmittles
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You can do some troubleshooting to isolate the problem instead of replacing parts.
First sit in the seat (as heavily as you can) and turn the key to the start position and hold it there. Then (one at a time) move around in the seat, move the HST pedal slowly forward and then towards reverse, then move the PTO lever to on and off with additional force on the off position. Test any other safety switches in a similar way (I don’t know what safety switches are on your tractor.)
If it tries to crank when moving a switch then that is the switch to work on with adjustment or replacement.
Do you feel comfortable with “directly jumping power to the starter” that bypasses all of the safety switches on the tractor to prove the starter and electrical circuit?
First sit in the seat (as heavily as you can) and turn the key to the start position and hold it there. Then (one at a time) move around in the seat, move the HST pedal slowly forward and then towards reverse, then move the PTO lever to on and off with additional force on the off position. Test any other safety switches in a similar way (I don’t know what safety switches are on your tractor.)
If it tries to crank when moving a switch then that is the switch to work on with adjustment or replacement.
Do you feel comfortable with “directly jumping power to the starter” that bypasses all of the safety switches on the tractor to prove the starter and electrical circuit?
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
The parts cannon, is a tempting weapon.
I have succumb to its wiles on occasion.
I would suggest that since you heard a “click”, it is probably not a “safety switch”.
When my safety switchs act up (or are engaged) I get nothing…..no click, so sounds, no nothing except lights on the dash.
Start with the basics and don’t skip steps….I have never worked on a B tractor but here is a “off the top of my head” checklist.
1. Visual inspection for any “green” or broken connections.
1a. Check all grounds.
2. check all fuses, fusable links, or breakers with a meter.
3. Check the wiring with a meter.
4. load testing may be in order, because corroded wiring will pass a “continuity test”, but fail a “load test"
If you can’t find anything, then personally, I would jump that solenoid and see if it cranks. (use caution so that you don't get ‘run over')
Get a manual and it should be more specific on a “no start. no crank” problem.
I’m sure a “electrical guru” will be along shortly to point out my mistakes though….
EDIT: Forgot to add my “funny" parts cannon meme.
I have succumb to its wiles on occasion.
I would suggest that since you heard a “click”, it is probably not a “safety switch”.
When my safety switchs act up (or are engaged) I get nothing…..no click, so sounds, no nothing except lights on the dash.
Start with the basics and don’t skip steps….I have never worked on a B tractor but here is a “off the top of my head” checklist.
1. Visual inspection for any “green” or broken connections.
1a. Check all grounds.
2. check all fuses, fusable links, or breakers with a meter.
3. Check the wiring with a meter.
4. load testing may be in order, because corroded wiring will pass a “continuity test”, but fail a “load test"
If you can’t find anything, then personally, I would jump that solenoid and see if it cranks. (use caution so that you don't get ‘run over')
Get a manual and it should be more specific on a “no start. no crank” problem.
I’m sure a “electrical guru” will be along shortly to point out my mistakes though….
EDIT: Forgot to add my “funny" parts cannon meme.
Last edited:
Checking for voltage in the circuit instead of continuity with a meter would cover all poor contacts, weak battery etc..
First things I would check is all the fuses. So measure voltage behind the fuses when ignition is on. If one is blown do not simply replace but rather report back, there is a reason for a blown fuse which is typically a fault somewhere.
Is the click when you turn on ignition (stop/run solenoid) or when you turn the key to the crank position?
From what you describe the starter does not get any voltage. So check from starter key switch onwards. You did try pedal and PTO switch already but the seat switch is quite often the problem. You can short wire the switches for testing purposes.
You will need schematics or better, a work shop manual. You may find those on kubotabooks.com
First things I would check is all the fuses. So measure voltage behind the fuses when ignition is on. If one is blown do not simply replace but rather report back, there is a reason for a blown fuse which is typically a fault somewhere.
Is the click when you turn on ignition (stop/run solenoid) or when you turn the key to the crank position?
From what you describe the starter does not get any voltage. So check from starter key switch onwards. You did try pedal and PTO switch already but the seat switch is quite often the problem. You can short wire the switches for testing purposes.
You will need schematics or better, a work shop manual. You may find those on kubotabooks.com
JimDeL
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2380; R4 tires; 54" MMM; FEL w Pirahna bar; Ballast Box; BXpanded skid plate.