Brake screw up...

Think I'd do a hydraulic filter change and adjust the pedal free play per the WSM. The wet brakes have composition and steel discs and I suspect some of the composition material is now in the hydraulic oil and trapped in the filter(s).

I've done that before but not for that distance. My pet peeve with Kubota. Kubota should as standard equipment have a 'Brake on light' on the dash. Both my M's have it but I added mine myself because I forget too.

did that a few times in the past also, luckily for short distances.. now with repetitive training, muscle memory has me repeatedly depresses the brake pedal before setting into motion..

I'm beginning to think we all have done it which is why I put an 'idiot' light in the dash and a leaf switch on the brake rod. Problem is, I only have it on the right brake rod but I very rarely run split brakes so they are usually locked together anyway.

I've never done that........not!

I have slowly learned the habit of bumping the brake before I put mine in gear. Since I started doing that, I haven't made the mistake of running with the brakes locked.

Ditto! have also done it.. and this simple error can cause serious damage if not caught in time..

I added a switch (a sealed magnetic switch used in an alarm system) underneath on the brake pedal rod and the switch activates the flashers when the brake pedal is pressed.. Since the flasher lights are behind the seat on my BX2230, I added an additional LED "clearance marker" light up front in my field of vision..

SidecarFlip said:

Think I'd do a hydraulic filter change and adjust the pedal free play per the WSM. The wet brakes have composition and steel discs and I suspect some of the composition material is now in the hydraulic oil and trapped in the filter(s).

I've done that before but not for that distance. My pet peeve with Kubota. Kubota should as standard equipment have a 'Brake on light' on the dash. Both my M's have it but I added mine myself because I forget too.

Click to expand...

I would also change the fluid with some new UDT since he could smell the oil, being so hot as to smell it I would dump it and put in fresh to protect the pump and hydro.

Butch said:

Seriously... I want this for my tractor. Showed this to my neighbor and he is 100% all in to install one.

Any chance getting the the name, mfg model and source to buy one or in this case two...

Glad the site is back up... I was fix'n to go into withdrawal....

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X2

Very nice solution. Thanks for sharing the concept

I told my story on this already a little bit ago, but I did this same thing with my brand new L2501. I did it twice actually on the same weekend.It had like 3 hours on it and I made this mistake. Thankfully I caught it after no more than like 100 yards. The 2nd time It happened I caught it much faster. I never smelled anything or saw anything affected so I've just continued to use the tractor as normal and am nearing 20 hours now and haven't had any adverse affects. Now that I am more used to the machine and have used it enough to know what to expect, I think I would catch the brake being down instantly now, as the HST Whine is a good bit louder when its engaged. I also made it a strong point within myself to tap the break, and in the same movement look down at the park brake lever to make sure its not engaged before I move. Drill this into your muscle memory - get off and on the tractor multiple times with it not running and go through the procedure. It seems silly but it will drill it into your head. The solution above is really interesting but i cant imagine going through all that just so I dont leave the brake on. I think this should be fixed mentally. Simply have a certain procedure you go through when you climb in the seat every single time.

Butch said:

Seriously... I want this for my tractor. Showed this to my neighbor and he is 100% all in to install one.

Any chance getting the the name, mfg model and source to buy one or in this case two...

Click to expand...

This was a DIY project I did.. The only part somewhat specific to the application is the magnetic switch.. You need a single pole/double throw magnetic switch i.e. 3 contacts Common, N.C. (normally closed) and N.O (normally open). Magnetic switches work best as they are sealed from the dirt and grime that is bound to get inside a non sealed switch.

Most magnetic switches are just single pole (2 contacts).

The 3 contact magnetic switch is needed to detect the brakes off (pedal in the resting position) which will be the only location where the pedal will consistently be in the same position. This is the same as the brake switch in your car, the brake pedal at rest presses against the switch keeping the brake lights off. The brakes applied position will always vary based on pressure applied and brake wear/adjustment.

The normally closed and normally open refers to the position of the contacts with the switch is in it's resting position (magnet not next to the switch).

For the flasher lights to be off when the magnet is next to the switch (brakes off), and to turn on when brakes applied & the magnet moves away from the switch, you would wire the lights using the "common" and "normally closed" contacts.

I wired the magnetic switch in parallel with the flasher light switch on the instrument panel of the tractor.

The extra LED yellow clearance light I added up front can be found in any auto parts store.

The appropriate magnetic switch is available on Amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08

In installing the two components (the magnetic switch and the magnet that activates it) alignment needs to be right for reliable operation. The two little triangles visible in the photo need to be oriented to be on the same end as the magnet rests next to the switch.