flasher unit

ptplumer · May 31, 2020

Does the flasher unit play a role in the ignition? My BX23TLB is giving me fits with not starting intermittently. Instead of getting the steady ticking it usually does in the run position, none of the instrument lights come on. In the start position, no crank and no sound of the starter solenoid/relay kicking in. Then the flasher unit hums very loud.

If it means anything, I have had trouble with the turn signals and hazard lights not working for some time.

Anything else I should be looking at? I pulled the flasher unit and I am headed to my local dealer tomorrow morning.

GeoHorn · May 31, 2020

I believe that flasher is a red herring. You clearly have an electrical problem, and the first thing that “pops” to mind is a bad ground. Have you checked your battery voltage/capacity? Cables and terminals?

Dave_eng · May 31, 2020

Geohorn is pointing you in the right direction.

If your battery cables have repair ends on them get new ones. See photo.

When replacing both battery cables, pay great attention to the connection of the negative ground cable's attachment to the engine block or frame.

The surface must be clean and shiny.

Dave

dlsmith · May 31, 2020

Those battery cable ends are one of my biggest pet peeves. They are complete junk, and cause more problems than they solve. Used by those who are too lazy or stupid to install a proper replacement cable, or install a crimped terminal.

A while back on one of the televised car auctions, there was a really nicely restored GTO, and obviously a lot of money had been spent restoring it, but when they opened the hood, it had a couple of those clamps on the cables. Spend 10s 0f thousands of dollars on a restoration and can't spend $20 for a decent set of battery cables?

whitetiger · May 31, 2020

dlsmith said:
Those battery cable ends are one of my biggest pet peeves. They are complete junk, and cause more problems than they solve. Used by those who are too lazy or stupid to install a proper replacement cable, or install a crimped terminal.

A while back on one of the televised car auctions, there was a really nicely restored GTO, and obviously a lot of money had been spent restoring it, but when they opened the hood, it had a couple of those clamps on the cables. Spend 10s 0f thousands of dollars on a restoration and can't spend $20 for a decent set of battery cables?

Totaly agree!!!!!

SidecarFlip · Jun 1, 2020

All you have to do is strip the insulation back and properly tin the end before you clamp it.

I prefer screw terminal batteries myself (as in heavy truck application )(and what both my M's have ) because I tin the cable end and then install a Tweco style solid copper crimp on lug and then solder that to the tinned end as well.

Of course that does require a lug crimper too. Have a nice hydraulic one. HF sells them everyday for 49 bucks.

Pau7220 · Jun 1, 2020

SidecarFlip said:
I prefer screw terminal batteries myself.

PO had lugs already installed on mine with a group 74 side terminal battery. When it failed I put in a group 24 with marine battery terminals.

ptplumer · Jun 6, 2020

Once I got it running I eliminated the flasher unit. It is not a part of the ignition circuit. I had cleaned the hell out of the ground connections, from the battery to the frame and the motor to the frame. Took the battery leads off, and jumped it with my truck. It ran fine, but the ignition switch will not shut it off without a battery connected. FYI on the injector pump, there is a lever right by the throttle linkage that you can manually shut down the engine.

THe battery checked as good at the auto parts store. So I cleaned the hell out of the battery terminals and lead, and applied battery lead protectant to all the leads and ground connections.

So far it has been running like a champ, although the problem was intermittent to start with. So I am hesitant to say it is resolved, however it is running today.

Moral of the story, a battery terminal brush, and meticulously cleaned terminals, connections and grounding are your best friend.
Thank you for all the feed back.

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