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Sounds like banding or heavy zip ties would do it.

I’d avoid it, and lean towards using banding or something similar. Even adhesive strips would work for something light as a cane. I know dealers get jumpy about holes in things; especially ROPS and loader parts.

Used to work in Petroleum distribution, and I can assure you that it is literally the exact same product as ULSD sold at the pump, only dyed to the hilt. It is a shitty coincidence.

I wonder how long it would take the oil to reach the ~450 feet depth my aquifer sits at.

So much rotating mass on a rotary cutter, that I think the shimmy is just part of the deal. Feathering the clutch on my 2501 still results in quite the ruckus spinning up my RCR1260.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/synthetic-water-resistant-grease-gwr/ This has been my go-to grease for boat trailer bearings for some time now.

I don’t think that the cost of a fix negates the probability of it being the issue, and diagnosis at home costs nothing.

I agree here, I’d start diagnosing high-pressure fuel system issues.

How many hours are on the unit?

Almost all lithium-complex grease is fortified with “pressure additives”, which are along the lines of what moly brings to the table. Like I said, the frequency of grease application is far more important than the type of grease used. Pick something cheap & readily available, use it often, and...

Tractors aren’t exactly high-pressure, heavy equipment applications that require a high Molly grease. Honestly, what you use isn’t nearly as important as how often you use it. Any decent lithium based grease, used judiciously, is going to make your machine more than happy. Generic “red” grease...

Can’t recommend this guys method enough, it was a breeze to do, and was incredibly cheap with winter washer fluid being on sale this summer.

I love mine, and since you are purchasing land pride impliments, they will attach flawlessly. It keeps the 3pt hitch together and from rattling around, as well as being an awesome point to use as a tool itself. I think mine was about 400 bucks. I’d suggest going with the QH10 instead though...

Chains help, but I never explicitly needed them in Cheyenne. 4wd and a bit of determination is more than enough.

Grind a slot in a cheap impact socket to fit the goofy bolt heads snugly, and burn em in & out with an impact. Costs about 3 bucks and some time with a grinding wheel. The ugga-dugga gun takes no shit, and makes it a breeze.

Cheyenne Kubota delivered mine at zero cost.

This is the way to go for a standard L.

I’d be lying if I said I had any sort of idea what taxes or fees looked like. I did order the unit, and purchased it through Kubota Credit USA. Calculated the payment for 0/60 financing with KTAC insurance, and I walked out the door with nothing out of pocket. 2 months later, a brand new L2501...

You are correct. UDT2 and Basic brand hydro oil do not mix.

Yeah, as others have expressed, I’m sure it’s just a bit snug. I’m I’d probably try putting a little “m-a-n” on it, and it’ll pop right off. Scoring it with a razor knife also would allow it to pop loose.