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Also note that if you are taking the path of welding a nut to the easy-out itself, the proper removal direction is to the right (clockwise). Best to get the easy-out removed first and then deal with the broken zerk.

The best way I have found for removing a VERY hard stuck item (DIY) like an easy-out or broken tap is with a Dremel and a small carbide burr. It takes patience but will work. You can even grind out to the threads keeping the hole well centered and pick out the remaining threads until you can...

I took the lead ingot route and put about 500 lbs into my box and it only took up about 1/3 of the space. It leaves plenty of room for chainsaw gas and oil as well as various chains and what-not. I am very happy with the results

I would start by getting the alternator checked (and probably replaced). It might be possible your internal regulator is shorted to the point of drawing down the battery such that the fuel pump isn't getting the juice to do it's job.

Nice and clean job!

Since it is a Kubota I would go with metric. BTW I just replaced the front lug nuts on my B2650 and they were M12 x 1.25. Just saying...

I fought that click for years on my little Ford diesel garden tractor. Cleaned all connections, changed key switch, changed battery, even changed the starter. All over the span of couple of years. Each time it would work for awhile and I would think YEA! but no joy. If you "jumped" the starter...

Thanks for the feedback. My first thought was a link to bridge the gap like your solution. Then I was going to use angle iron as I have seen used elsewhere on this site, but every supplier around these parts was closed to the public. Flat stock turned out to be fine. As far as welding...

As probably everyone here (but me) is aware the Landpride quick hitch QH10 has a fixed vertical spread of 15" between pins (NOT adjustable) and the Titan Ballast Box has an 18" spacing. Being as wet-behind-the-ears as is possible, this came as something of a surprise when it came time to hook...

My new B2650 was doing that. I realized it was when I was leaning on the right arm rest to look behind me and was rocking the seat off the safety switch. Bent the tab that contacts the switch and it has been fine since. Just sayin'...

I just had a similar situation with my old (1995) Ford GT65 garden tractor. The mower deck is shaft driven and a u-joint was failing. OEM was $95. I was able to find (sorry, don't have a link) a MOOG specification chart by size. After measuring the old joint I found a MOOG part number and...

I used 5/16 square cold rolled for the frame so it wasn't too hard to bend. First made cardboard cutout for the top and bottom opening as a guide. Bench vise and BFH to sorta-kinda match the template and "tweek" to fit. I decided to mount it internally to the frame because the front shape would...

Thanks. A grapple is what made me decide it was a good idea. I don't always look before I leap!

I enjoy the posts about the need to add a guard to the front guard. They inspired me to try one for myself.

I know this is an old post but I wanted to use my 1st post to thank you for the info on this upgrade. I changed my dynamo to an alternator using the Kubota kit and it went perfectly with your guidance. I took longer to install it than you, but then that is my way... Less than 2 hrs on the B2650...