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Gee, I read the title and thought you were giving away a B7100.

I recently completed fixing up my B7100 and wanted to just thank this community for their help. Some direct, some indirect, and some without knowing it, as I read old threads to understand or solve issues. This is one hell of a resource! Don't know exactly where I would be without it, but...

Thanks Lil Foot.

I appreciate the words of warning. Yes, the back rims are made for tapered lug nuts. That is what caught my attention and prompted the question. I had done the fronts and they don't have rims for tapered nuts and used the lock washer and standard nut. The rears had the same lock washer set...

Thanks for taking the time to respond, but, I don't think you understood my question. I may not have been very clear. Using a tapered nut or a regular nut with washers does not effect your ability to change your wheel base width. It effects how well "centered" your wheel is on the hub. With...

I am doing some painting of my rims and wondered why Kubota used flat washers, lock washers and standard nuts rather than tapered lug nuts. The rear rims look like they were made for the tapered type. Is there a reason I am missing? The fronts have the same setup, but, they seem to get...

FYI. I recently had the same problem on a B7100. Wolfman's test indicated the bucket cylinders were the problem as well. I rebuilt my cylinders and it cured the problem. I am attaching a pic of the offending seals. The top center is a new T seal. The bottom two are left and right cylinder...

Success!!! Wolfman, thanks for all your help and that goes for the others that contributed as well. I am attaching a photo of a new T seal compared to what I found on the pistons of my bucket cylinders. The top one is of course the new one. The middle and bottom are barely recognizable as...

Hi Wolfman, Thanks for the reply. I greatly appreciate the time you take to help. I will be working on it again tomorrow and will try your suggestion. I did already find I could lower the loader by cycling the control when off. I believe it is the original valve from 1995 and does not...

I am back working on my loader issue now that the cycle of winter storms seem to be over.(I hope) As a reminder, my problem was/is the bucket uncurls and drops it's load in about 30 seconds. I rebuilt the control valve with no change. I purchased the cylinder rebuild kits but have not...

Wow, I stand corrected. That certainly doesn't fall under the easy to work on theory. I'm just so used to leaning awkwardly getting my knuckles bloody turning something I can't see on my Saabs that this first job on the tractor control was quite a pleasure. I will rebuild the bucket...

I completed step one to rebuild the control valve. It did not have any effect on the problem. Bucket acted exactly the same, which is dumping it's load in about 30 seconds. I had hopes because when disassembling, I found the cap on the back of the bucket spool loose. I thought it might not...

Inside face to face at loader is 35.75 inches.

Thanks for the information. After thinking my issue through, I decided it was probably a good idea to do more than the control. I suspect my cylinders are likely leaking as well given the age of the tractor. It seems to also make sense to replace the hoses at the control while I have it...

My thoughts as well. I ordered all the filters and plan on replacing all fluids.

I just returned to the forum this morning and saw this. I will get you measurement today.

So.....14 degrees out there this morning. I swapped the hoses as suggested and bucket held curl better, which means it is probably the control. I had something else happen that was unexpected however. With the hoses swapped I attempted to cycle the loader and brought the loader full up. I...

I agree Hokie. If that fixes my issue, I am thrilled even if it's only some o rings etc. Well, that sure didn't take long to get answers. I am out of here until I can do the test. I will report back with the results. Thanks everyone. I've only had the tractor 3 days and already I wonder...

Thanks Vic, Tomorrow I will do the test suggested for confirmation, but, it sounds like I am looking at the control rebuild. I think I saw the price at about $55.00 Sound like the right number?

Thank you Wolfman. That is exactly the kind of suggestion I was hoping for. For clarity of terminology, curl hose is for upward movement of bucket only, and dump is for downward movement of bucket only. (emptying) Not touching the main arm cylinder hoses. Am I clear? I just reread you post...