How to? L6060 Power Steering pipe replacement: PIPE,COMP(PS,DELIVERY) >=54285TD350-56482

[Sapper50]

Well after X hours under the L6060, I cannot figure out how to remove the rigid power steering pipe on the tractor.
Part number in the diagram is #20. The rubber damper (#60) slid out of the clamp allowing the rigid pipe to vibrate and it cracked the braze at the rear of the pipe at the banjo bolt fitting. I Have the new line and new washers and damper etc - but all the bends etc I am at a loss on how to weave that thing (tricks and tips) to get the old one out and repeat in reverse with the new line. Not a lot of room with all the bends - so asking for assistance if anyone here has had to do this and how. Thanx !! Next step if no one here has had this nightmare - is to call the shop where I purchased it new and ask their techs to walk me through it (out of warranty - 1000 hours on the clock etc)

 

[Fedup]

I'm not surprised that you're having a tough time figuring out how to slip that into place. It's most likely impossible without taking a bunch of other stuff apart first. Having been through similar situations a few times I've often found the easiest way to go is to cut the line in a convenient spot, slip each piece into place then join it together with a union.

Metric Union Straight Compression Set Zinc Plated Steel

Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.

belmetric.com

 

[Sapper50]

Thank you and yes, I believe you are 100% correct - but will check with a Kubota Tech and ask - and maybe even ask them to ask regional etc how to do it - but being around heavy construction for 'a year or two' and the mechanical side as well - my gut tells me with the bends and turns this line makes to go from mid tractor all the way up to the very front under the battery with a rigid line - that line was installed before the marriage of the engine and the frame. So if you want to keep the rigid line intact, you're dropping the motor or ??? in order to gain access to remove and install - and your approach - cut it, then repair it - will most likely be the path to repair. Just a slight touch of reluctance to cut a $225 rigid hydro line.... LOL

I'm not surprised that you're having a tough time figuring out how to slip that into place. It's most likely impossible without taking a bunch of other stuff apart first. Having been through similar situations a few times I've often found the easiest way to go is to cut the line in a convenient spot, slip each piece into place then join it together with a union.

Metric Union Straight Compression Set Zinc Plated Steel

Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.

belmetric.com

 

[Fedup]

Which is better? $225 part or $2250 labor? We all make choices in this world.

And don't forget when you cut the line, measure twice, cut once. Compensate for the added length of the coupler.

 

[whitetiger]

I would just remove the radiator and install it in one piece and be done with it. It's really not that big of a job.