Box Blade - Top Link or Not for New Tractor?

[GrumpyFarmer]

Hi, hoping you all can share some of your hard-earned wisdom. I am purchasing a new tractor, MX6000. I'm also getting a land pride box blade to (1) grade and level about .3 acres of former ag (my gal wants more lawn), (2) repair and level existing service trails around my fields (on about 40 acres), (3) Help to create and maintain new trails. I currently dont have any rear hydraulics and know I can do all that without any hydraulic top link. I'm balancing adding this vs the added cost. How hard will I kick myself if I don't get this now, but defer this to later or never? I'm getting conflicting advice locally. Thanks, all, grateful!

‘So hard your nose will bleed’ - Red Foreman.

I agree with @NCL4701 above.

I added rear remotes when I bought mine. However due to my stubbornness, I did not add a hydraulic top link until 5 or so years later. Looking back I would not buy another tractor of that size without it, and if I thought I had a need, I would add the tilt as well.

Now that said it’s very easy to install later, but I think now is a good time to seriously consider at least the 3 remotes I t however many you want.

I would add that for a couple of my implements that are not QH20, the hydraulic top link makes it a real PITA to hook up…Once it’s hooked the top link is pretty awesome. The trouble for me is that with a standard top link you can adjust length to seat pretty easily standing in pace and quickly come to correct length in hand. With the hydraulic for me it’s some trial and error and I don’t have to go gadget arms to reach the levers…so then I set the link down, walk around adjust rinse and repeat until get lucky. That’s certainly not a deal breaker if you want to be able to trim or tilt you implements though. (I think if going QH route makes more sense than if not planning to use QH)

I hope this helps.

 

[Henro]

. How hard will I kick myself if I don't get this now, but defer this to later or never?

To directly answer your specific question: your foot won’t be big enough to fill the boot you will want to use to kick yourself in the butt! And the boot size will only likely decrease slightly if you don’t get a hydraulic side link at the same time!

Comment based on the fact that you seem to have 40 acres to deal with and plan to use the box blade a lot now and in the future.

The positive would be you burn a lot more calories due to getting on and off the tractor so many times to make the adjustments you need to get the results you want.

 

[hedgerow]

Hi, hoping you all can share some of your hard-earned wisdom. I am purchasing a new tractor, MX6000. I'm also getting a land pride box blade to (1) grade and level about .3 acres of former ag (my gal wants more lawn), (2) repair and level existing service trails around my fields (on about 40 acres), (3) Help to create and maintain new trails. I currently dont have any rear hydraulics and know I can do all that without any hydraulic top link. I'm balancing adding this vs the added cost. How hard will I kick myself if I don't get this now, but defer this to later or never? I'm getting conflicting advice locally. Thanks, all, grateful!

Little late to the party. Since you are ordering the tractor I would get three remotes on the tractor. I bought my MX6000 out of the crate and didn't add remotes from the dealer as I knew I wouldn't ever use them. I have a shed full of tractors with remotes. I don't use a quick hitch or top and tilt on my MX6000 as most of my hours are using a 200 gallon three point hitch sprayer. Get the remotes now and if money is a issue run it without the top and tilt and hyd side adjust and see how it goes.

 

[McMXi]

There are numerous advantages with hydraulic top links and one not mentioned here (I don't think) is the ability to raise the rear of an implement for clearance such as getting on/off a trailer or crossing an obstacle. Also, I use the hydraulic side link to "float" the snow blower and also adjust the top link to change the angle of attack when blowing snow uphill vs. downhill.

The reason for adding a Summit Hydraulics multiplier is so that I don't have to give up either of the top link or side link since I need two circuits for chute rotation and deflector angle. In the photo below I'm using all three factory rear remotes and two of the three pairs of SH circuits.

I consider three sets of rear remotes, top-n-tilt and QHs non-negotiable on a tractor. But that's just my preference.

 

[McMXi]

A recent purchase has me thinking of a significant advantage of an hydraulic side link that few have thought about or mentioned, I know I've done neither until recently.

I ordered a sprayer with a 20ft boom and the manufacturer suggests keeping the boom about 20" above the ground. Well, if the ground isn't even, an hydraulic side link allows for "on the fly" adjustments to the boom to keep it parallel to the ground. Also, I want to spray alongside my driveway which has significant grades either side of it. I might be able to adjust the side link to better match the grade.

Just a thought on a Monday morning.

 

[McMXi]

@MtnViewRanch, you might already know this, but the top-n-tilt kit on my M6060 is sold by Gearmore, Inc based in Chino, CA. I'm getting new hoses made up so I'm down the rabbit hole on this. I think that Gearmore only sells stuff and not sure where they get the cylinders from but it might be Magister Hydraulics.

I'm trying to confirm the port type/size in both cylinders and I think it's SAE #8 (o-ring boss 3/4-16) in the tilt cylinder and either the same or SAE #6 (o-ring boss 9/16-18) in the top cylinder.

Regardless, the local dealer ordered the kit below from Gearmore when I told them that I wanted a top-n-tilt kit and then they did a very poor job with the hoses which is what I'm in the process of fixing.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

@MtnViewRanch, you might already know this, but the top-n-tilt kit on my M6060 is sold by Gearmore, Inc based in Chino, CA. I'm getting new hoses made up so I'm down the rabbit hole on this. I think that Gearmore only sells stuff and not sure where they get the cylinders from but it might be Magister Hydraulics.

I'm trying to confirm the port type/size in both cylinders and I think it's SAE #8 (o-ring boss 3/4-16) in the tilt cylinder and either the same or SAE #6 (o-ring boss 9/16-18) in the top cylinder.

Regardless, the local dealer ordered the kit below from Gearmore when I told them that I wanted a top-n-tilt kit and then they did a very poor job with the hoses which is what I'm in the process of fixing.

View attachment 171203

I think that the biggest difference with mine is that they get 1 1/2" dia rods, & better ball swivels.
The top link has a 9" stroke, having a 20 1/4"-29 1/4"working length. Not a big difference in total adjustment from what you have. My side link has a 6" stroke for the side link with the midpoint at 3", matching the OEM midpoint manual adjustment height, providing a 50% larger adjustment range.

The quality of my overall product is unmatched in the industry world wide.

 

[Loki]

Just jumping back in to say thank you for all that hard earned wisdom you folks shared. Very much appreciated. This community is tremendous.
I reached back out to the dealer and he put together a nice package for two remotes (one with float) plus top n tilt that will be compatible with the quick hitch, as part of the new tractor setup.
Meaning that while I am probably going to kick myself for decisions made or deferred, it’s no longer going to be about this.

 

[JonM]

ive got top tilt kit i only use the tilt with the box blade. i use the top hydraulic link all the time. do. it. you won't regret it.

i got the remote operated ssqa and thought maybe i shouldn't have done that one but it turns out to be my most used add on. the top tilt kit is like that

 

[McMXi]

Just jumping back in to say thank you for all that hard earned wisdom you folks shared. Very much appreciated. This community is tremendous.
I reached back out to the dealer and he put together a nice package for two remotes (one with float) plus top n tilt that will be compatible with the quick hitch, as part of the new tractor setup.
Meaning that while I am probably going to kick myself for decisions made or deferred, it’s no longer going to be about this.

Not sure if you covered this but are you getting the open station MX6000HST or cab model MX6000HSTC? Also, what QH model?

 

[Loki]

Not sure if you covered this but are you getting the open station MX6000HST or cab model MX6000HSTC? Also, what QH model?

Cab model, hstc. Wisconsin winters and all. Quick hitch is the Land Pride QH16, I think they no longer sell the 10.

 

[McMXi]

Cab model, hstc. Wisconsin winters and all. Quick hitch is the Land Pride QH16, I think they no longer sell the 10.

Very nice!

The QH16 is an adjustable top hook version of the QH10 so it made sense to drop the QH10 model. The QH15 was a head scratcher for sure with its non-sensical CAT 3 lift arm pin size. I converted mine to a QH16 but now have no need for it since I have a QH10 and QH20 so will most likely give it to my friend who recently purchased his first tractor.

 

[DONLI]

Get TnT and you will thank me later. If you are going to have stuff added…get both valves and rams now. Total pain in the ass otherwise.

I SECOND TnT (TOP AND TILT).
YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT!

DON

 

[SDT]

Add it to your tractor as a new purchase. It will cost much more to do this later. Ask me how I know.

Bingo.

I would certainly add a couple of rear remotes to the build order for a tractor of MX 6000 size. Which type of valves will depend upon what implements you anticipate using in the future.

 

[SDT]

Hi, hoping you all can share some of your hard-earned wisdom. I am purchasing a new tractor, MX6000. I'm also getting a land pride box blade to (1) grade and level about .3 acres of former ag (my gal wants more lawn), (2) repair and level existing service trails around my fields (on about 40 acres), (3) Help to create and maintain new trails. I currently dont have any rear hydraulics and know I can do all that without any hydraulic top link. I'm balancing adding this vs the added cost. How hard will I kick myself if I don't get this now, but defer this to later or never? I'm getting conflicting advice locally. Thanks, all, grateful!

A hydraulic top link is a convenience. Anything that you might wish to do can be done with the OEM manual top link.

That said, a hydraulic top link is quite handy when using certain implements, and a box blade is one such implement.

Top and Tilt is even more of a convenience, albeit much more expensive than is a hydraullic top link.

 

[McMXi]

Meaning that while I am probably going to kick myself for decisions made or deferred, it’s no longer going to be about this.

People don't seem to bother to read entire threads, but for those of us that do, what else are you going to "kick myself for decisions made or deferred"? Inquiring minds want to know.

I've had an MX6000HSTC for 4-1/2 years now and had an MX6000HST for about 1-1/2 years so think I've figured out how to set them up well. If there's still time to modify your order it might be worth it.

By the way, the MX6000 models are really good tractors and no doubt you'll really like yours.

 

[Trustable]

Definitely get it and add more remotes than you think you’ll need. I kick myself every time I need to adjust the tilt of an attachment and then take it back to level or even change the angle for grading. I should have added the remotes during the ordering process but I was like when am I gonna want that. Turns out every time I use the tractor I want it.

 

[Loki]

People don't seem to bother to read entire threads, but for those of us that do, what else are you going to "kick myself for decisions made or deferred"? Inquiring minds want to know.

I've had an MX6000HSTC for 4-1/2 years now and had an MX6000HST for about 1-1/2 years so think I've figured out how to set them up well. If there's still time to modify your order it might be worth it.

By the way, the MX6000 models are really good tractors and no doubt you'll really like yours.

Ha, can reliably count on some headscratchers ( I.e. what was I thinking?) but they fall into the future, unknown unknowns at this point. I like my current setup and am pretty excited about simplifying my equipment around one tractor platform, optimizing my work (using a grapple instead of being the grapple), and getting after projects that have been out of reach before.