Do R4 tires suck in snow?

McMXi

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I siped the MX R4 tires for the sole purpose of getting more articulation of the contact patch so that the patch has a better chance of conforming to the road surface. A sipe full of snow does nothing given how thin the cut is. The idea that snow sticks to snow made me laugh in this context. Siping a big tire lug is kind of like having more sliding pins in a holder that can conform to a complex shape. The more pins the better the conforming is, and so the more blocks on a tire, the better it's able to articulate to the road surface.

Siping increases the "biting" length between the tire and the road in addition to allowing for a better conforming contact patch. R4 siped tires still suck in snow because the lugs and resulting grooves simply aren't designed to work in snow, but on a plowed or blown asphalt or gravel driveway they appear to do a decent job of improving traction.
 
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Trustable

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I was pretty worried about my r1s before I moved further north but I have to say they get the job done. In snow or deep snow they are amazing, on ice they are okay, but I’m never going fast enough to test the limits, not much sliding when your only going 2-4mph. I can say I am confident every time I am going up or down the 8 degree/percent grade on my driveway. Granted, that part hasn’t iced fully but there are certainly a lot of patches on that section that I feel slipping in my truck. To be honest my biggest issue has been ground clearance as the snow will frequently be above the exhaust and axles if I’m trying to move a drift with the bucket - but that’s not an issue because of the tires, more of a limiting factor due to machine size.

I think chains would really help your situation. If I was to get a new tractor or my tires were beyond repair I would really consider r14, as that seems to be the best of both worlds.
Also to note - I believe nokian makes a dedicated snow/ice/winter tire for tractors, not sure on the sizes or price but that could also be an option for you.
 
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WI_Hedgehog

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I'm guessing turf tires are great until a front wheel has to push through packed snow, at which point a paddle (like on ag tires) would dig through instead of making a somewhat impervious snow wall.

Tires are expensive, I don't want to carve out rubber I paid for as the tires won't last as long as when they had more rubber, which is why I bought Euro (diamond-pattern) chains (non V-bar), which work excellent on R4s (thicker sidewalls than turf, but flat like turf so "not too hard" on paved surfaces).

20260128_062217.jpg
 
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Bearcatrp

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Am contemplating sipping my R4's. Need to find an idiot proof kit so I don't mess them up.
 
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McMXi

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Am contemplating sipping my R4's. Need to find an idiot proof kit so I don't mess them up.
Send @pokey1416 a PM. He let me borrow his and he might do the same for you. :) A siping tool is one of those things that will see little use, so sending a borrowed tool back with money for a nice lunch and some Montana honey was a win-win.
 
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SDT

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Am contemplating sipping my R4's. Need to find an idiot proof kit so I don't mess them up.
OK, I'll bite.

What does "sipping" mean in this context?
 

Grandad4

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People sometimes forget that tire choice is only part of improving traction in winter conditions. Just as a pickup truck with an empty bed will have poor rear traction in the snow because it's light in back, today's "compact" tractors tend to be nose heavy and butt light. Put a loader up front and there might be only 30% of the tractor's weight on the back axle (excluding any ballast of course).

The more weight you can pile on the back, the better. With my Grand L, the only thing I had that really planted the back end was the backhoe that weighed about 2,000 lbs. The R4' s weren't great but it didn't matter.

The back blade was 700 or 800 lbs, and did OK in the snow.

Don't do that kind of stuff anymore but I somehow miss it.
 
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Bearcatrp

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People sometimes forget that tire choice is only part of improving traction in winter conditions. Just as a pickup truck with an empty bed will have poor rear traction in the snow because it's light in back, today's "compact" tractors tend to be nose heavy and butt light. Put a loader up front and there might be only 30% of the tractor's weight on the back axle (excluding any ballast of course).

The more weight you can pile on the back, the better. With my Grand L, the only thing I had that really planted the back end was the backhoe that weighed about 2,000 lbs. The R4' s weren't great but it didn't matter.

The back blade was 700 or 800 lbs, and did OK in the snow.

Don't do that kind of stuff anymore but I somehow miss it.
I have either my back blade or snow blower on the back of mine.
 

imarobot

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I keep my scraper blade on the back. I know the weight doesn't amount to anything and more weight would help, but I use it in addition to the front mount snowblower.
 

Blue2Orange

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People sometimes forget that tire choice is only part of improving traction in winter conditions. Just as a pickup truck with an empty bed will have poor rear traction in the snow because it's light in back, today's "compact" tractors tend to be nose heavy and butt light. Put a loader up front and there might be only 30% of the tractor's weight on the back axle (excluding any ballast of course).

The more weight you can pile on the back, the better. With my Grand L, the only thing I had that really planted the back end was the backhoe that weighed about 2,000 lbs. The R4' s weren't great but it didn't matter.

The back blade was 700 or 800 lbs, and did OK in the snow.

Don't do that kind of stuff anymore but I somehow miss it.
A neighbor and I have an on going "debate". He is on the side that weight is everything. Why he has fluid in all four tires. My side of the debate is. Without traction all the weight in the world will not make a "fluid" load of difference. Weight is more important for ballast and improving traction. He doesn't accept my side. But then he is always right. To end the debate. I question him why he needed to add chains to get all the way up another neighbor's driveway. He only could get half way up without the chains before spin time. His return comment was his tractor doesn't have a locking diff.

No fluid in the tires on the BX. But I do keep the box blade attached when using the FEL bucket or grapple claw. Need the weight for ballast and probably improving rear tire traction. Occasionally on the steeper pitches of the driveway under really slippery conditions the snow blower is lifted off float to add some traction mass to the rear wheels that have chains on.

Wondering how many pounds of weight fluid would add to the front tires? They are tiny at 18-8.5 x 10s. Unsure of the mass of the LA344 loader and bucket. They stay on during snow blowing season. Guessing fluid in the fronts would not be significant relative to loader and bucket weight.
 
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imarobot

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Or maybe the added weight of the chains made all the difference ;)
 
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Blue2Orange

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Or maybe the added weight of the chains made all the difference ;)
I cannot push snow using the bucket downhill and make it around any of the curves. Front wheels spinning, but not biting. My neighbor thinks he can since he has weighted front tires. I told him he is free too try. That was several snowfalls ago. Hasn't tried. But then he is always right. So no need to prove he can.

2 link ladder with V bar studs for the fronts are on the want list.
 

SDT

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I cannot push snow using the bucket downhill and make it around any of the curves. Front wheels spinning, but not biting. My neighbor thinks he can since he has weighted front tires. I told him he is free too try. That was several snowfalls ago. Hasn't tried. But then he is always right. So no need to prove he can.

2 link ladder with V bar studs for the fronts are on the want list.
Have you tried using the steering brakes?
 

Blue2Orange

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BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
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Does a BX have steering brakes?
No. Pretty basic tractor. Cruise control only works in the forward direction. Locking diff. That's about it for additional features. Bucket dropped to float reducing mass on the front tires and the resistance of the snow load exceeds whatever traction there is on the fronts to zilch.
 
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JonM

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People sometimes forget that tire choice is only part of improving traction in winter conditions. Just as a pickup truck with an empty bed will have poor rear traction in the snow because it's light in back, today's "compact" tractors tend to be nose heavy and butt light. Put a loader up front and there might be only 30% of the tractor's weight on the back axle (excluding any ballast of course).

The more weight you can pile on the back, the better. With my Grand L, the only thing I had that really planted the back end was the backhoe that weighed about 2,000 lbs. The R4' s weren't great but it didn't matter.

The back blade was 700 or 800 lbs, and did OK in the snow.

Don't do that kind of stuff anymore but I somehow miss it.
when i need extra traction with my inverted blower i just lift it off the ground a little adding an extra 1100lbs-ish instantly in ballast and removing a lot of drag. couple that with using my snow pusher to take off the top layer if needed makes it a lot easier.

forgot to add i use r14 tires whuch si far have more than handled anything ive needed.

r4 are great if your running sround on concerete and asphalt exclusively. r4 are for longevity on concrete/asphalt and are the worst tire for anything else
 
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WFM

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L3800
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Yes R4 suck in the snow.
I know two brothers who farm. One has R2 tires
The other has R4.
A few yrs back they were moving snow and the R4's im told were useless.
Thank God my tractor came with R2's.
I just put on a new front set last year.
 

skeets

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BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
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In a word, YES in fact theR4s are skidsteer tires I dont know the brain truss that thought putting skid steer tires on a tractor was but I hope his nutz fall off! The old R4 tires on my BX are out standing, on the B they suck!!!