Scraper grader use question.

[Blue2Orange]

Have a box scraper and back blade for driveway maintenance. New to box blade operation. New Kubota BX. Controlling the 3 point is a different "feel" than on the old NH.

Right now my driveway transitions from up and down segments have developed valleys over time from my moments snowplowing with the blade. "Valleys" have just made those transitions even more of an issue. Also, crown have become a bit too much in some stretches. Blade work has in the past required careful attention to height when dealing with the "valleys". Reversing the blade or driving backwards helps. Box scraper and me are not as one. Moving too much material at times. Need more seat time.

Mechanic at the dealership noted he uses the LandPride scraper grader on his driveway. For a flat drive no real attention needed. Just set the blades at the proper depth. Lift the shanks and go for it. Checked a few Ytube videos. Looks like no real need to tend to the ride height.

But, videos are all on flat drives. What about driveways like mine that have transitions from light uphill to steep and now valleys. Think wide (5-10 foot long) shallow "speed bumps" or gentle rolling waves on a driveway. Right now no used scraper graders available, but on the wait list at the dealer. Having minimum of 60yds of blue rock gravel eventually coming once road limits are off. Ideally should level everything before spreading. Might rent a scraper grader. But being a cheapo. Will probably just blade.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

If your divots or valleys are drainage related, address that first with drainage redirect on the high side and / or drainage pipe under the driveway. Corrugated pipe is the norm but I prefer Sch 40 PVC or ABS because it is smooth inside. But it is harder to lay because it doesn't bend. I prefer 6" or bigger but it depends on the water flow capacity that you need to divert.

Grading the drive is the basic cut the high and fill the low. And compact the low. You will cut too deep sometimes and may get frustrated. That can be fun. Attitude is primary.

Your driveway surface compaction may prove that grading with a BX may be difficult. If the driveway is firm and compacted you will either need to rip the high spots with the box scraper teeth first, and spend a lot of time.... Or get or hire a bigger machine. If you have more time than money use the BX. If money isn't an issue hire a driveway company with a dozer or skid steer grading machine.

Knowledge of how to use the BX and box scraper for grading: ONLY comes with time in the seat.

In my experience; When it comes to leveling ground, driveways are the worst because it's on 1 plane, or axis. Forward or reverse. Larger areas with room to cut and fill from 360 degrees, are much easier because you can 'spin it' from any direction.

My own driveway is not smooth because my LX2610 isn't enough tractor to cut and fill the compacted driveway surface, in the time that I care to spend on the driveway. But all our vehicles are 4WD so it is not an issue.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

1st BX doesn't have 3PH 'draft' control it has an 'inching' valve. This means if you set the blade 3" off the ground in the driveway, it's 'fixed' so it can't take the tops off 'mountains' to fill the 'valleys' to make a level 'plain'. It can't automatically make a level 'plain'. Ford called it 'draft' control, A-C, 'traction boost'. Whatever it's called, it's automatic 'feedback' to control the height of the 3PH implement

 

[mikester]

Put gauge wheels on the back of the blade. If you have a hydraulic toplink you will get excellent fine grade control with this setup.

 

[Blue2Orange]

No drainage issue. Pit run over real sandy soil. Pit run was covered with ?grade gravel. A decade ago gravel was covered with what we call blue rock or Brule gravel. Heavy rains (+1"/hr or greater) use to cut into to gravel. Brule gravel with proper ditching has never yet needed post heavy rain repairs. It perks the water like sandy soil and after compacted is like asphalt.

There are limits of grade and operator. Seasonal neighbor with the driveway to "heaven" has a way too steep driveway. Neighbor made the mistake of trying to plow without chains on all 4 wheels of his truck. Gravity resulted in "ditching" even after driveway was paved. Me when removing snow too aggressively causes the valleys and Brule gravel into the ditches. First and last snowfalls with unfrozen ground and me are not a good combo.

I can live with the rolling driveway. Guessing if I level it less tons of new Brule gravel would be needed. And a bit of an obsessive thing about a "perfect" driveway. At least until the first snow removal.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

1st BX doesn't have 3PH 'draft' control it has an 'inching' valve. This means if you set the blade 3" off the ground in the driveway, it's 'fixed' so it can't take the tops off 'mountains' to fill the 'valleys' to make a level 'plain'. It can't automatically make a level 'plain'. Ford called it 'draft' control, A-C, 'traction boost'. Whatever it's called, it's automatic 'feedback' to control the height of the 3PH implement

Are you saying that a BX doesn't have float on the 3 point? Edit: Never mind, I found it. That is not good. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx-3-point-float-control.22668/

Also, I was referencing this:

Plane (mathematics) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org