Advice on tractor for 7.5 acres - Mowing pasture and general use - L3902? What flail mower?
- Thread starter ben_2000
- Start date
On HP. More HP is nice. But consider the realistic speed you can run with a 72 inch mower on. In pasture you'll pitch around a lot, going fast won't be comfortable. If you can't go all that fast anyway, then perhaps an L2502 is plenty. Just a thought.
I mow quite a bit of local community land - perhaps 2-3 acres plus a bunch of roadside. I keep it short enough to be a playing field - so that means mowing at least once a month, sometimes twice a month in spring. I like the look of it shorter.
You could consider making wild flower beds or the like, so make some areas that don't need mowing, or don't need as-regular mowing. Keeping strips down to segregate it will still make it look tidy, and a mow twice a year (outside flower season) will probably keep weeds under control.
I do find that the areas I mow monthly eventually turn into grass. Weeds don't like being mowed that frequently - the blackberry, gorse, broom and other weeds have mostly died out.
I mow quite a bit of local community land - perhaps 2-3 acres plus a bunch of roadside. I keep it short enough to be a playing field - so that means mowing at least once a month, sometimes twice a month in spring. I like the look of it shorter.
You could consider making wild flower beds or the like, so make some areas that don't need mowing, or don't need as-regular mowing. Keeping strips down to segregate it will still make it look tidy, and a mow twice a year (outside flower season) will probably keep weeds under control.
I do find that the areas I mow monthly eventually turn into grass. Weeds don't like being mowed that frequently - the blackberry, gorse, broom and other weeds have mostly died out.
Fyi if I hit roots or medium sized rocks with either the box blade or my loader with my L3901 it stops dead in its tracks.
I was hoping this machine would grade better, it CAN do it, but it's just nowhere close to a mini ex for this task.
I'm running an 8" chipper - anyone saying smaller HP tractor is good enough wants to sell you two tractors. Either that or they own a BX and have tractor envy.50% saying L3902 is not powerful enough and other 50% saying it's too powerfulLooks like it might be the right one
If your plan is to chip branches from one tree over a 3 day long weekend once a year then a small HP machine is all you need.
Good day…maybe I missed it, but I’d also be thinking about attachments on the fr loader to handle your tree branches…if you have enough branches for a chipper, I’d think about how you plan to haul them (ie. Forks and / or grapple could be helpful IMO).
Everyone has their own process, but I’d recommend you think it through on the chipping (or any other activity annd implement) and front loader attachments. As an example are you planning to drive up to each branch that needs chipped with the chipper in the tractor? Or will you make a pile (by hand or by tractor)and then drive up and park to run the chipper and feed a pile though…I guess my point is forks/grapple will be helpful in making your piles in a space where you can safely park and run chipper. (I only mention asthere was mentionof hills, so I suspect there is potential to need to transport branches to common location for chipping?)
As far as machine size/power…I’d recommend figure out size of the attachments you want to run and size machine according…I did not see anything description about need to lift anything heavy but if that is a factor figure out how much you want to safely lift/move and then maybe that will help on the machine size.
I am not sure if that helps, but just my thoughts. Good luck.
Donystoy
Active member
Equipment
LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
To the O/P with the limited budget you have I would be looking at a finish mower or zero turn for grass cutting as the MMM is a pain to install and remove if primarily using the tractor for "real tractor work". I cut over 7 acres of open and wooded areas. If you are planning on only cutting a few times a year, a bush hog might be a better option. It all depends on how you plan on keeping the grass areas. Some folks just cut a bit of grass around the house with a push mower and then use a bush hog a couple of times a year for the rest.
I got by just fine with my 17 hp B7200 hst 4wd with loader and B/H. Total area is 88 acres, but the open fields are rented out. I have been all over the area that has lots of hills, woods and wet areas with the B7200 with no issues at all. Always clearing brush and moving it with my loader or trailer to my burn location. The only reason I purchased another tractor was to have a cab to clear snow from the 4000-foot driveway. I just find that a larger tractor can be more cumbersome in tight areas. Now with my larger LX with cab I have to re-evaluate where and what I can do as it is also more unstable than my b7200 was.
If I have a huge tree blow over, I just get my tenant to move it with his 200 hp Case.
I got by just fine with my 17 hp B7200 hst 4wd with loader and B/H. Total area is 88 acres, but the open fields are rented out. I have been all over the area that has lots of hills, woods and wet areas with the B7200 with no issues at all. Always clearing brush and moving it with my loader or trailer to my burn location. The only reason I purchased another tractor was to have a cab to clear snow from the 4000-foot driveway. I just find that a larger tractor can be more cumbersome in tight areas. Now with my larger LX with cab I have to re-evaluate where and what I can do as it is also more unstable than my b7200 was.
If I have a huge tree blow over, I just get my tenant to move it with his 200 hp Case.
Ben... so many choices and never a perfect clear right or wrong choice to be made.
Your thoughts on an L series is a great thought. Fantastic machines and very very capable. i have one.
Rarely do we hear people say they went 1 or 2 steps too big. We more often hear people say they went 1 or 2 steps too small to get the tasks done they want. Price difference is very minimal.
You don't mention your operating experience level but an L is significantly larger than a BX and so mistakes and accidents are often more expensive. If you go bigger take it slow and careful as I am going to assume your experience level is low. On the flip side going slower with a larger machine often still gets more work done.
To compare my B2601 to my L3301 the L can do about 2X the work in the same time frame. Depending on the task some more some less. So I find I take my time and are more leisurely at work my L as it just makes work quicker. The B is much more nimble in tight spaces.
Mowing with tractor matched 3pt mowers the B2601 in medium gear 540 pto versus mowing with the L3301 LOW gear 540 pto gets the same amount of work done in same time but with the L I can keep my dentures in my mouth and my coffee cup fuller and still have option to increase ground speed if I feel time is short.
good news is with a Kubota you often get back a very high proportion of purchase price on the tractor if you find the model you bought is not right for you. accessories on the other hand... well depends what you bought. In my area always high demand for backhoes, winches, 3pt mowers, grapples, snow blowers etc... so easy to sell if you decide you need to go bigger / smaller. Chippers are a much harder sell as guys with lots of brush often find burning more efficient. I had one and found took way to much time and energy to chip and burning is easy when we get covered with feet of snow every winter.
All my accessories (except my new logging winch) I have kept longer than tractors themselves. HQ accessories for the little tractors we are talking about here last yery very long time and easy to maintain and if maintained but used are always in high demand so easy to sell.
cheers
Your thoughts on an L series is a great thought. Fantastic machines and very very capable. i have one.
Rarely do we hear people say they went 1 or 2 steps too big. We more often hear people say they went 1 or 2 steps too small to get the tasks done they want. Price difference is very minimal.
You don't mention your operating experience level but an L is significantly larger than a BX and so mistakes and accidents are often more expensive. If you go bigger take it slow and careful as I am going to assume your experience level is low. On the flip side going slower with a larger machine often still gets more work done.
To compare my B2601 to my L3301 the L can do about 2X the work in the same time frame. Depending on the task some more some less. So I find I take my time and are more leisurely at work my L as it just makes work quicker. The B is much more nimble in tight spaces.
Mowing with tractor matched 3pt mowers the B2601 in medium gear 540 pto versus mowing with the L3301 LOW gear 540 pto gets the same amount of work done in same time but with the L I can keep my dentures in my mouth and my coffee cup fuller and still have option to increase ground speed if I feel time is short.
good news is with a Kubota you often get back a very high proportion of purchase price on the tractor if you find the model you bought is not right for you. accessories on the other hand... well depends what you bought. In my area always high demand for backhoes, winches, 3pt mowers, grapples, snow blowers etc... so easy to sell if you decide you need to go bigger / smaller. Chippers are a much harder sell as guys with lots of brush often find burning more efficient. I had one and found took way to much time and energy to chip and burning is easy when we get covered with feet of snow every winter.
All my accessories (except my new logging winch) I have kept longer than tractors themselves. HQ accessories for the little tractors we are talking about here last yery very long time and easy to maintain and if maintained but used are always in high demand so easy to sell.
cheers
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dirtydeed
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
I'd take a look at an LX for the types of jobs that you want to do. Perhaps the LX3310. Plenty of hp to turn a mower (flail would be better suited) without the added bulk of the L series frame. You'd definitely notice the bulk when pulling up hills.
Perhaps, LX3310 SU (larger tires) without the mid PTO. Then, add some wheel spacers. If I recall correctly, Kubota will be offering higher HP models in the LX lineup next year...I think some will have greater than 40 hp.
Best of luck in your decision.
Perhaps, LX3310 SU (larger tires) without the mid PTO. Then, add some wheel spacers. If I recall correctly, Kubota will be offering higher HP models in the LX lineup next year...I think some will have greater than 40 hp.
Best of luck in your decision.
Burning is more efficient. In many areas it's no longer so friendly to the neighbours, and sometimes green type people frown on it. Chipping gives you mulch, and that can be very useful. Horses for courses and all that. Yes it takes time. But less time than taking it somewhere (local green waste), and less time than going and getting mulch for the garden (although you can often get a guy to bring it in a truck.....and that is very efficient)
Wood chips is excess fuel on the ground, increases your fire risks if you happen to live an area prone to fires.
I like to burn, agree its the most efficient method.
I have a line of cherry and sassafras trees that are parallel to the driveway. They drop lots of limbs, but rot quickly. Limbs greater than 1" dia. are placed between trees and rot down quickly. The rest are thrown on the walking path between the tree line and the field for bush hogging. They rot down even quicker.
Chippers: Don't know what it's like in your area, but weather has killed about as many oaks and cedars here in the last few years as beetle kill in other areas, and there's a whole bunch of other stuff you don't want (e.g. mesquite). You can end up with a big burn pile just in time for the winds to come up and the burn bans to go into effect. If you have that problem, and own a garden or a foot path or two, I would think a chipper becomes sort of important/useful. Problem with stacking along treelines for the "critter" habitat is that here the critters might not be so desirable - copperheads, bobcats, maybe feral hogs etc. We don't have any quail left in this area, which is what I would prefer to make habitat for. If you like pit vipers, have at it. I don't have a chipper yet, but will probably go for a Woodmaxx within the next couple weeks to I can whittle down this huge burn pile that I never seem to have the right weather conditions or free time to burn. Tractors: I started with a used JD model "A" first and that was a great piece of history to own, then went to another JD because I needed the front end loader and liked green, traded it in on a Kubota in part because the service departments at both JD places near me ____ (fill in the blanks). The upgrade is a more capable machine than the JD model I had before and I was pleasantly surprised to find the loader was equipped with a skid steer type system, which opens up all sorts of rental tool compatibility and special attachment options and you don't have to mess with the archaic JD proprietary system. When I traded up, I got the cab. Here, there are times where I can't really shred consistently perpendicular to the wind and work from downwind to upwind, so on a non-cab version, wearing goggles, earplugs, and a bandana or a Covid mask were at a minimum useful, if not required, pieces of PPE. Now, I get in, shred, get out & don't worry about taking a shower & clogging the drain with dirt/dead grass/weeds. I only have to take care of keeping the tractor breathing. Only issues with a cab are cost & you can't really go under a lot of stuff. Not sure if your place is steep enough to worry about the bit higher CG, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind. Sounds like you're in an area that might be great weather year round so you've always got growth on the property and not so much potential drought problems and oppressive heat & humidity, so maybe a cab is not appropriate for your area. On zero turns: I have one for the places the tractor can't go and I need the PPE for it. I know a guy that has a 60" Kubota with the hydraulic deck lift and a Kubota branded engine who mows a lot of acres with it and swears by it. It's a nice machine, but I wouldn't buy it instead of a tractor unless all you want to do is mow or pull something behind it that doesn't weigh much (e.g. you don't think you'd ever really use loader arms enough to make it worth it). Those big Kubota zero turns come fully equipped with sticker shock, so there is that. You can buy a small Kubota tractor for almost the same price as a big Kubota zero turn if you're not careful. If you can get within 42"-48" of borders with your tractor, Kubota has small zero turns (a 42 & a 48) that are fairly priced and Stihl has come out with a line of zero turns including a 42 and they might be a bit cheaper than Kubota. I saw somewhere the Stihls are being made by Ferris, but I don't know if that's true.
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
I would look at this problem in this manner:
Build a Kubota.
Ag tires, loader with QA bucket, one set of wheel weights, HST
L2502 = $27,000
L3902 = $32,700
$5700 difference is a lot of money for a machine that will not get used a great deal
Using a mowing calculator.
A 5 ft mower at 3mph for 6 acres 3.66 hours on the L2502 or 1.64 acres per hour
A 6 ft mower at 3 mph for 6 acres 3.06 hours on the L3902 or 1.96 acres per hour
No computer controls on the L2502, priceless.
Some will say that the computer on the L3902 is no problem I disagree. If it ever needs replaced it is a lot of money.
The cost of a stand alone chipper is cheaper. It would be cheaper to run then a tractor mount. I have never used a tractor mounted chipper but I imagine the idle time would be pretty high and there is the worry of the required regen on the L3902 which has not proven to be a major problem bot there is the potential. The L2502 eliminates the regen concerns if you go with a tractor mount.
I do have a L2501 and I admit I try to justify my purchase.
As a young man I grew up on 10 acres and used a Farmal Cub for everything. It was enough tractor even without a FEL. In some ways the Cub is better then the L2501.
I hope this is helpful.
Build a Kubota.
Ag tires, loader with QA bucket, one set of wheel weights, HST
L2502 = $27,000
L3902 = $32,700
$5700 difference is a lot of money for a machine that will not get used a great deal
Using a mowing calculator.
A 5 ft mower at 3mph for 6 acres 3.66 hours on the L2502 or 1.64 acres per hour
A 6 ft mower at 3 mph for 6 acres 3.06 hours on the L3902 or 1.96 acres per hour
No computer controls on the L2502, priceless.
Some will say that the computer on the L3902 is no problem I disagree. If it ever needs replaced it is a lot of money.
The cost of a stand alone chipper is cheaper. It would be cheaper to run then a tractor mount. I have never used a tractor mounted chipper but I imagine the idle time would be pretty high and there is the worry of the required regen on the L3902 which has not proven to be a major problem bot there is the potential. The L2502 eliminates the regen concerns if you go with a tractor mount.
I do have a L2501 and I admit I try to justify my purchase.
As a young man I grew up on 10 acres and used a Farmal Cub for everything. It was enough tractor even without a FEL. In some ways the Cub is better then the L2501.
I hope this is helpful.
Elliott in GA
Well-known member
Equipment
LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
As to running a PTO chipper, my experience has been very good. There is no idle time (you spin up to 540 PTO to use the chipper), and the fuel consumption is minimal (you do not need much torque once the fly wheel is spinning at full speed - the engine consumes fuel based on the torque load). To me, it is an advantage to have additional duty for the tractor engine to ensure that it is run regularly and for hours at a time (mowing plus chipping). Additionally, you do not have an infrequently used stand alone chipper engine to maintain.
I thought twice about buying a regen, and there is definitely something to be said for NOT having everything tied to a CPU - but these days it's hard to find much new equipment without some sort of computer or PLC electronic management system somewhere in the electrical system of the equipment you drive/operate, and you get limited HP & lift capability if you don't accept regen as a viable alternative/necessary evil in diesel powered stuff. If your usage is within those limits, don't buy something with regen or else look for something used that is higher HP from times gone by before the regen stuff became a thing. In the end, the HP & some of the features of the "glass cockpit" won out for me even though there is the risk of expensive maintenance/repairs in the event of failures outside the warranty. Electronics are getting better - think those motor graders you see building roads with the electronic grade controls - makes it easy to grade to the plans for an operator that may be less skilled than in the old days.
As for PTO vs stand alone chippers, I'm not sure it is absolutely correct across the board to say that a stand alone is cheaper than a PTO, at least for the initial cash outlay. If you compare something like a DR Power Equipment stand alone vs their PTO driven (e.g. PRO 475 at $2800 vs 475P at $2000 vs XL501 at $2900), and you compare "apples to apples" (or as close to that as you can get) in terms of the rated branch size it will take, the stand alone is actually priced higher than the PTO version (the above numbers are sale/special prices so the MSRP prices rearrange the ranking of the units to make the 475P>475, which doesn't make much sense outside of profit maximization since they don't have to provide an engine for the PTO version and the sale price shows how far down they are willing to go while still making a profit). The other issue with stand alone is that, at least in this neck of the woods, decent small engine repair is hit or miss in terms of quality and turn around time. I just had to deal with both of those issues on a JD ZTR that I took to the dealership for maintenance/repair. If you fix your own small engines and hydraulic systems, then it's a non-issue to have yet another carbureted liability sitting around the property, but I want to be using the equipment when I'm ready to use it, not fixing it before I can use it. If you store your carbureted equipment inside and maintain it, it'll be fine, but if you treat it the way many of us do, you're going to be in for carb rebuilds, ignition switch replacements, and possibly other things like solenoids (and there's more than 1 of those on newer small gas engines like the carbureted V-twins). I probably can do it, but I have very little interest in figuring out the wiring diagrams with all the safety interlocks and such on my ZTR - I just want it to work when I start it up. So, I'm willing to pay a little more for the Woodmaxx PTO than a DR or some other low end stand alone and am happy to use the Kubota diesel more often to keep it "exercised". I do expect to use the Woodmaxx fairly often as we have a lot of deadfall and standing dead trees due to the last 10 years of weather.
There used to be a rule of thumb in the construction industry that if you don't use a piece of equipment more than 70% of the time in your business, don't buy, rent - which is fine if you have good, well-stocked rental places near you. I would guess a fair number of small tractor owners don't use their tractors anywhere near 70% of the time (e.g. about 1,450 hr per year), yet we still buy them - so maybe a little more time on the engine over the course of a year using PTO driven equipment is not a bad thing for the small, non-commercial acreage user.
As for PTO vs stand alone chippers, I'm not sure it is absolutely correct across the board to say that a stand alone is cheaper than a PTO, at least for the initial cash outlay. If you compare something like a DR Power Equipment stand alone vs their PTO driven (e.g. PRO 475 at $2800 vs 475P at $2000 vs XL501 at $2900), and you compare "apples to apples" (or as close to that as you can get) in terms of the rated branch size it will take, the stand alone is actually priced higher than the PTO version (the above numbers are sale/special prices so the MSRP prices rearrange the ranking of the units to make the 475P>475, which doesn't make much sense outside of profit maximization since they don't have to provide an engine for the PTO version and the sale price shows how far down they are willing to go while still making a profit). The other issue with stand alone is that, at least in this neck of the woods, decent small engine repair is hit or miss in terms of quality and turn around time. I just had to deal with both of those issues on a JD ZTR that I took to the dealership for maintenance/repair. If you fix your own small engines and hydraulic systems, then it's a non-issue to have yet another carbureted liability sitting around the property, but I want to be using the equipment when I'm ready to use it, not fixing it before I can use it. If you store your carbureted equipment inside and maintain it, it'll be fine, but if you treat it the way many of us do, you're going to be in for carb rebuilds, ignition switch replacements, and possibly other things like solenoids (and there's more than 1 of those on newer small gas engines like the carbureted V-twins). I probably can do it, but I have very little interest in figuring out the wiring diagrams with all the safety interlocks and such on my ZTR - I just want it to work when I start it up. So, I'm willing to pay a little more for the Woodmaxx PTO than a DR or some other low end stand alone and am happy to use the Kubota diesel more often to keep it "exercised". I do expect to use the Woodmaxx fairly often as we have a lot of deadfall and standing dead trees due to the last 10 years of weather.
There used to be a rule of thumb in the construction industry that if you don't use a piece of equipment more than 70% of the time in your business, don't buy, rent - which is fine if you have good, well-stocked rental places near you. I would guess a fair number of small tractor owners don't use their tractors anywhere near 70% of the time (e.g. about 1,450 hr per year), yet we still buy them - so maybe a little more time on the engine over the course of a year using PTO driven equipment is not a bad thing for the small, non-commercial acreage user.
I often prefer self powered equipment if I can use the tractor in parallel. If she who must be obeyed can feed the chipper whilst I bring branches or vice versa, then it works.
In reality for me with the chipper I tend to slowly build a pile, then one day I put the chipper on and do it all in one go. In that usage, no advantage to self powered. And I find the PTO driven to be more powerful than a gas driven one.
In reality for me with the chipper I tend to slowly build a pile, then one day I put the chipper on and do it all in one go. In that usage, no advantage to self powered. And I find the PTO driven to be more powerful than a gas driven one.
DR PRO 475 at 11.7 HP gas driven vs the B2601 diesel powered 19.5 HP at the PTO - Kubota wins.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Lots of good advice here.
As BigG pointed out, I love the simplicity of a 2501. That was a major factor in my choice. But the guys with the bigger machines that 'regen", seem to be very happy with them.
Since I have no real need for anything bigger, and I am a "do it yourselfer" the simpler machine was a good choice for me.
I also agree with Elliot, not having to maintain another engine is a plus, as well as putting more hours on your machine helps keep it from sitting around.
It sounds like those hills might be the biggest factor in regards to getting the 39 vs. 25.
I have no experience with hills so, I cannot make an informed comment.
Paul
As BigG pointed out, I love the simplicity of a 2501. That was a major factor in my choice. But the guys with the bigger machines that 'regen", seem to be very happy with them.
Since I have no real need for anything bigger, and I am a "do it yourselfer" the simpler machine was a good choice for me.
I also agree with Elliot, not having to maintain another engine is a plus, as well as putting more hours on your machine helps keep it from sitting around.
It sounds like those hills might be the biggest factor in regards to getting the 39 vs. 25.
I have no experience with hills so, I cannot make an informed comment.
Paul
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It's pretty dry here, so I don't mow pastures much. I sometimes mow with my L2501 on a slope. I don't personally enjoy going very fast going down hills, and especially don't like to turn fast on a slope. My L2501 goes plenty fast enough in Low or with less treadle in M.
I also have a pull behind Swisher Roughcut mower that I pull behind my Polaris Ranger, and a Poulan Pro riding lawnmower. I use each for different things with the riding lawnmower being what I use in the yard.
I decided I'd rather not have a DPF and couldn't justify the same size tractor with more HP for my uses. I would have gone all of the way to a MX with Cab had I gone bigger. The Cab raises the center of gravity, so the extra weight of the MX would have been helpful. I've had my L2501 for a little over two year, and it does what I need.
It would be great to be able to go a little faster sometimes, but there is a limit to how fast you can travel and still be in control.
I also have a pull behind Swisher Roughcut mower that I pull behind my Polaris Ranger, and a Poulan Pro riding lawnmower. I use each for different things with the riding lawnmower being what I use in the yard.
I decided I'd rather not have a DPF and couldn't justify the same size tractor with more HP for my uses. I would have gone all of the way to a MX with Cab had I gone bigger. The Cab raises the center of gravity, so the extra weight of the MX would have been helpful. I've had my L2501 for a little over two year, and it does what I need.
It would be great to be able to go a little faster sometimes, but there is a limit to how fast you can travel and still be in control.