Recent content by xmikew

Replaced it with spin on. It was causing low oil pressure at idle. Not sure if it’s serviceable. Just pay shipping or tell me to just send it to scrap yard? Also I’ll probably be selling my litte ll1500dt soonish. Will post separate when I do.

the l1500 high low is for transmission speed. How fast you want to go. (Mounted on left side of transmission nearer your feet). The pto speed is the left shifter (shorter one center) to the speed selector (right center and longer) up and left on pro selector is 540 @ 3k or so. I’ve only used...

New flange installed. Will find out this weekend if it leaks. I sealed all bolts since I was not sure. Replaced the one stud with a bolt. New packing in place. thanks for support everyone. This tractor definitely would not be running with out this community. - Mike

Definitely looks by design. There is a tube running from the valve case? Through the coolant case? Not sure of terminology. It appears connected to most bolts that secure the flange. Maybe a way to better cool the oil? Just going to use dope on every bolt.

Jb weld no go. It didn’t get in threads was too thick just got pressed out. I turned my attention to the broken bolt which was essentially the same problem now. I had been spraying it with penetrating oil each time I walked by. Ground two flats side on the stud. Put a pair of vice scripts on it...

Looking at the grainy parts diagram I see 01513-50860 is the one I think I got out. It’s pretty long. The one I think is still in is 01513-50822 which is just a m8x35. Hopefully will see it in full glory tomorrow

Thanks wolf man. That’s what I usually don’t understand. When pipe dope is needed vs. not. I saw what I think was pipe dope on that long post and nut in the pic before I cleaned it. I’m guessing the other post stuck has it as well. The bolts I took out are pretty short and I did not see any...

my new plan. The nut wasn’t rusted so bad on the post. Jb welded the post. Will try to get it out tomorrow once it sets.

Phaw! Hahahahah. So the bolt on the fan definitely interfering with the angle to get out the flange. I guess I have to remove the radiator to get something on the front of the fan to keep it from spinning to remove the back nut? I don’t feel anything though. Sometimes a man has to find out for...

Yes a crack. I did not notice until I was removing it so not sure if it happened in removal or if that was my leak. I have a leak somewhere on the flange or maybe where the inlet hose attaches. It’s hard to find with the fan whipping the coolant everywhere. The inlet was pretty corroded so...

thanks motion. I always get confused where coolant can be. There is a gasket between the engine and the water flange. I don’t think I would need to worry about putting thread sealant on the bolts? taking off the fan doesn’t get me any room. It’s the mount the fan goes into. That mount is part...

Thanks wolf man. I figure that fan mount must not be there when they assemble because the bolt was hitting the mount. No way possible! But I’m not taking off the dang gear case to change the dagum water flange!

Thanks for reply. If I can get the post out I can get the housing replaced. The fan/bolt Isn’t really the issue but the mount. Neighbor is coming by to weld a nut on one of the bolts that I sheared the head off on. I’ll see if he can weld a nut on the post so i can get it out. That was my...

Hi all! Replacing the coolant housing on l1500. Besides the fact that one bolt hits the fan assembly the other issue is this post and nut setup. How are you supposed to turn a rusty post when the nut comes off. There are two like this out of six. I got the one in the picture out because the nut...

Yes I got my throttle response back. Mainly by loosening the friction nut pictured.