Recent content by Roger Fowler

In the end, the mower deck is warped which is why I can't get the anti-scalp wheels even. And the mounting holes are worn, which is why the front links are so much shorter than the factory starting point. It is now adjusted as close as it is going to be and seems to do a reasonable job of mowing.

Finally got it! I set both anti-scalp wheels on 3/4" blocks then adjusted both front links as tight as I could. Only took a little more grinding in a couple of places. Both anti-scalp wheels are now a little off the ground. The lower one has the tighter front link when on blocks, but I am...

Couple of silly questions: 1) How do you support the MMM so you can attach the front links? 2) How do you pull the MMM forward to take up the free play while you attach the front links? 3) I'm having to stretch (literally) the front links about 3/32" to get enough force in them to hold the...

Wow!!! What a PITA this set-up is!! I have the front links down to 375 mm and the anti-scalp rollers are still on the ground. (Factory spec is 400 mm as a starting point.) All the mounting pins are new Kubota parts, so undersize pins are not the problem. I had to grind about a quarter inch...

I mis-spoke in my previous post. Yes, the parts catalog and service manual refers to them as anti-scalp wheels. And the picture looks like my set-up exactly. Except when I got it the front anti-scalp wheels were on the ground. Thank you for the reply. Roger

I was reading on the Internet and someone mentioned that the front gauge wheels should not touch the ground. I cannot see that specified in the service manual, although it can be inferred in one statement ("adjust front links so deck is level"). Is that a true statement? It would explain why...

OK, I'm being lazy - I don't want to remove the foot rests on my machine. Any pointers on disconnecting the connector on the combination box? I can't seem to get mine to budge. (There is no voltage going to the fuel shutoff solenoid, so I want to clean this connector.) Thanks in advance, Roger

Finally got back to this.... Tire pressures are good. I adjusted one of the front links so they are the same. And measured deck height. The side that doesn't dig in might be a bit high due to old "crash damage." (The roller bracket was broken and the front of the deck pushed in so far the...

This is my second season mowing with the G1800S. The left front anti-scalp roller often plows up soft turf or dirt with no grass. Often during left turns, but sometimes when travelling straight ahead. Is there something wrong that I have not found yet or is this just "the nature of the...

BJMSAM, That procedure works perfectly! Thank you. It took me a little longer than you mention, but I guess an old, dirty tractor being worked on by an old mechanic just doesn't come apart as quickly as in the past. :-) Roger

A C-clamp held the arm down so I was able to pull up hard enough to remove the arm. Roger

I'm talking about the throttle lever 010. The pin is removed and the nuts and washers are removed. But the arm 040 is stuck on the lever 010. I'm sure Kroil and patience will allow it to pull out in the end. Roger

Just to close out this thread....... I removed the bolt clamping the U-joint to the upper shaft. Then I pulled up on the steering wheel to see if the wheel would come off or if the wheel and upper shaft would come out. Turns out the wheel came off with surprisingly little force. (The...

Thanks, Russell, I just came in from getting a picture of the steering wheel when I saw your reply. All good suggestions. There is no access to the bottom of the steering wheel, so I can't put a nut or anything on the bolt. It will have to be an "L" shaped tool that goes down and grabs the...

Can anyone suggest a puller that will fit down the .25" by .50" slots so I can remove my steering wheel? It seems like a specialized tool as all the steering wheel pullers I have looked at are much bigger than that. Thanks in advance, Roger