Recent content by PaulinBft

I sent a parts inquiry on your website and have yet to hear back. Please let me know what you are asking for a tach.

Greensville Jay: Sounds like you've done a few of these. Can you tell me how the spring attaches to the needle shaft? There is a slot in the collar on the needle shaft but there doesn't appear any way to affix the spring end. I'm guessing that is there to create some tension to keep the...

I took the tach apart - what the heck it doesn't work, is expensive to rebuild, and the tractor doesn't really need it - and the spring has broken at its outside attachment point. Looks like it might have come loose from the inside as well but I can't see how it attaches to the needle shaft...

Thanks for the replies. The problem is in the tach head. I suspect their is a spring inside to return the needle to zero and my guess is that spring has failed. At this point I'm looking for a salvaged part. That failing I'll look for an aftermarket solution, and after that I'll have to go...

The tach/hour meter on my B6200E crapped out and the replacement part is discontinued and not available. Does anyone know of a substitute from another manufacturer or aftermarket that will work?

Does this not act as pressure relief or bypass in the hitch controller? (not that I've seen a flow diagram for it) https://kpad.kubota.com/books/1261/figs/38321

I did move the lever (to clean the dirt off the control valve before replacing the seals on the banjo) and I may have left it in the wrong position. I assume this valve feeds both outlets in the "6" position and only the hitch cylinder in the "5". Otherwise i couldn't have used the loader and...

Before I begin, thanks again to those who helped me here recently. My B6200E had been sitting for a few months and when I tried to use it it sprung a few hydraulic leaks, the worst being the seals on one of the bucket tilt cylinders. Also, two hoses had sprung pinhole leaks and evidence of...

Abuse and anecdotes aside, Wolfman's technique of using the hitch arms to push the piston up was the ticket. Cylinder bore was smooth and no ridge to cut down. Pushed piston down and up a few. times after which dropping the arms quickly created enough momentum for the piston top to stop just...

That would certainly be cleaner. And when I get the system drained I'll try it. A friend had suggested air and my thoughts were that if fluid leaked past the piston easily enough to relieve the pressure air will be less likely to pressurize the cylinder. Here's hoping that it doesn't. Thanks...

I'm trying to replace a leaking seal on my 3 point hitch piston (hitch would raise and quickly leak down) and I don't know how to get it out of the cylinder. It was suggested to use a magnet to pull it out but I don't have one strong enough. Also suggested was pulling it out with suction...