Recent content by ken erickson

Spent the weekend tent camping at my property with my grandson. Great weather and good times! Caught this young buck early Sunday morning with some interesting lighting. A bit of a mist hanging low in the air. Made for a cool picture. Later in the day caught this Great Spangled Fritillary on...

Thought of you after watching this video! Interesting gadget. RWS, thought of you when this YouTube video popped up in my feed. Interesting lathe gadget for sure! watch

Gotcha! I have had 3 different Chinese geared head lathes but did not remember the slowest speed. I think the old SouthBend lathes with back gear had about 50 RPM as the slowest speed. Sorry about crashing and no damage! Appreciate your posts and pictures as always!

Interesting how experiences vary! Out of curiosity what RPM is your head stock running when you're threading? What RPM range does your lathe have?

Second using your bucket depending on soil type etc. I dug just shy of 300 feet for a 4 inch drain using my bucket only. I was surprised at the depth I was able to achieve, and took me about 1 1/2 hours not including back fill.

Got to love it when a plan comes together! Good job :) Side note, The main reason for the 29.5 degree compound setting rather than straight in perpendicular is to reduce the cutting tool force and "generally" will give a nicer finish with less chance of chatter especially with deeper...

Bill, I think he was running the spindle in reverse with the set-up that he photographed. He mentioned he tried cutting in reverse. Bottom line is he has the angle of his compound set incorrectly and believe that will cause that step cut effect in the trial pieces.

I believe you have the compound set 29 degrees from parallel to work piece, you need to set 29.5 degrees perpendicular to work piece. A few ways to set to correct threading angle. The scale on the cross slide goes to 60 degrees. If you start with 90 degrees meaning the compound is parallel...

I do not see the benefit of threading in "reverse" . I assume that is what your showing in the pictures is the holder for that operation? Can you show your set-up for standard rotation, single point thread cutting? I would want to see the top of the cutter as the thread is cut. Important...

Basic question. Are you using the half nut and tread dial to engage the half nut , not the feed clutch , to cut the threads, in a race track pattern? Engaging the half nut on the proper even or odd line depending on threads per inch ? From your pictures I assume your cutting a 60 degree...

Out of curiosity are you saying that a service tech can not work on a piece of equipment that has emissions equipment deleted for any reason? Bad axle bearing for example that has nothing to do with the emissions. I am not asking about the dealers stance or service shop stance, but Federal Law.

I am going to keep the OEM Nikki carb and pick up the rebuild kit for it as a spare. I prob got lucky on the Amazon one. I watched a few small engine Youtube channels where they mentioned that about 1 in 4 of these really inexpensive clone carbs work! I picked this riding mower up in a trade...

I believe I have this engine running correctly at this point. Thanks to all that have offered suggestions ! This post by William1 got me to wondering along with the fact when I ran the tractor for 1/2 hours I was seeing a hint of blueish smoke hanging in the air. Turns out the head gasket...

I believe that is correct. I have a very late production B7100 that had the ROPS kit installed which included the seat belt. I have heard of folks finding new old stock on the kits but would guess that is going to be near impossible to find. Yes, the END of production on B7100's has been...

These waste oil pumps will get you down in that 1/2 gallon per hour. This is the pump only, you would have to supply drive motor. oil-pump-1-stage-3450-rpm-rh-rotat